"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...
Walt Bilofsky wrote in
:

Thanks for the info, Larry.

I was hoping to use the Honda EU1000i. It weighs 29 pounds,
so even
with my aging back I could take it on the boat for week-long
cruises,
then bring it home as a backup during power outages. Might
have to go
to the EU2000i - 47 lbs. (The EU3000 is over 130 lbs.)

We use the EU2000i on our boat and with the RV. On the boat, we
use it plugged in to the shore power connection so we can have
ac below as well as the battery charger. Our entertainment
center is all dc operated. We have on occasion rafted up and
supplied ac power to both boats. It ran in the idle position was
only at full speed when the hot water heater, on the other boat,
was on for shower time. When we use it with the rv, it will run
everything we need including air. I like to use it instead of
the built in 5.5 kw unit due to less noise and economy of fuel.
Down side is juggling power between the microwave and AC.

Leanne

Thanks, Larry.

The ProSine 2.0 has some nifty features that might let this silly
setup actually work. Depends on the size air conditioner I'll need
for the boat. I might need to go to the EU2000i.

I had a good talk with a Xantrex tech about the ProSine 2.0.

On the A/C side - the issue is the generator dying when the compressor
comes on. The ProSine has a transfer switch, and if it sees the AC
voltage from the generator going low, it will very quickly switch to
inverter power - and the inverter can supply 4.5kw surge. The voltage
level for the transfer is settable. So hopefully the ProSine can be
set to put the generator off line before the load stops it.

But then of course the voltage will come back up, and the ProSine will
go back to the generator, right? Yes, but according to the tech, it
will take 10 or 15 seconds to validate the AC voltage and waveform.
Plenty of time for the compressor to start. And not enough time to
take too much out of the battery bank.

But if the battery's down, the charger is going to want to suck more
AC power than the generator can supply, right? Well, on the ProSine
2.0 you can also set the shorepower "breaker current". So if I set
that to 8 amps, say, the charger will never take more than 8 amps
minus whatever is going through to the AC loads. So I can tune that
setting so the charging function doesn't kill the generator either.

So the only issue is whether the generator will be able to service the
steady state load of the A/C. That'll depend on the size A/C I need,
but the spec for a 5000 BTU is 4.9 amps. I think I'll need a larger
one though. Anyway, worst case, I get the A/C installed, rent an
EU1000i, find it doesn't work, and go for the 2000i.

- Walt Bilofsky

Larry W4CSC wrote:

Walt Bilofsky wrote in
:

Thanks for the info, Larry.

I was hoping to use the Honda EU1000i. It weighs 29 pounds, so even
with my aging back I could take it on the boat for week-long cruises,
then bring it home as a backup during power outages. Might have to go
to the EU2000i - 47 lbs. (The EU3000 is over 130 lbs.)

I think you're going to be disappointed in the EU1000. It will pull ONE
5000 btu window air conditioner, sorta like a Carry Cool, but NOTHING ELSE
when it's doing it. It'll run at full speed, around 4000 RPM? doing so and
be very loaded down.

How would your EU1000i do when running an air conditioner that draws 7
amps? Will it die when the compressor comes on? Any chance it would
run a 9 amp unit?

I had it pulling a 5000 Btu window A/C. As long as you were there to
supervise and save it if the A/C compressor didn't start, it was fine.
But, I'd find it tripped out when the A/C compressor tried to restart too
soon with head pressure before the Clixon tripped in the compressor.
That's no longer an issue with a 3KW genset.

The little engine in the EU1000i is just too small to pull much of a load.
It's a great little picnic rig to run a few fans and a TV. It's just not a
serious power plant.


Another possibility - there is at least one 12v DC marine air
conditioner. If it were running off the battery - and the generator
were running the inverter's 100 amp charger - then all the surge
problems get handled by the battery and a 1kw generator works just
fine.

12V at 100A = 1200 watts. What's that, 3000 Btu? How awful...useless.

I'm not very "nautical" when it comes to air conditioners. When they ask
me what A/C to get for their boat, I always tell them to buy an RV rooftop
airconditioner dropped into the main hatch and bolted in place. "Marine"
air conditioners SUCK! ALL the heat sources of the A/C, itself, are INSIDE
the air conditioned space! How stupid! The A/C's "net output" is the Btu
it's rated for MINUS all the heat loads of the hot compressor, hot seawater
heat exchanger, hot fan motor and whatever power the controls generate as
heat. So, the 12,000 Btu "Marine" A/C nets about something like 7000-8000
Btu? How silly. The damned thing is NOISY because it's all INSIDE THE
SPACE! And, its ductwork sucks up valuable storage spaces something awful.
With a rooftop RV A/C unit, ALL THE HEAT SOURCES ARE OUTSIDE! All 12,000
Btu is poured into the boat! If it'll make you feel better, have your
canvas shop make a pretty blue seatcover for it with an anchor or spoked
ship's wheel on it...(c; They also make a great little seat for the
bikini-clad beauties to sit on for the helmsman's amusement.

What I can't figure out is why "marine" A/C units don't come with "Easy
Start Kits". Any RV dealer can supply your new rooftop Coleman with an
Easy Start Kit so it doesn't draw any more current STARTING it than it does
RUNNING it! That technology isn't new! The compressor doesn't come on in
a rush, it starts cranking up slowly. This "kit" installs inside the unit.
It makes it easy on the genset because it doesn't have a huge starting
current twice the running current. Why Marine units don't have them is
silly.


Yes, CO is one of the serious problems with this idea. I would
consider ventilation and maybe extending the exhaust when running it -
and of course have a CO detector on the boat.


If you're anchored out, you could always set the genset adrift 50' behind
the boat in the dingy....that gets rid of the CO problem and any noise it
makes.

Every boat needs a smoke and CO detectors....along with a flooding alarm
that makes sleep impossible in a marina!

On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 22:34:52 -0800, Walt Bilofsky
wrote:

So the only issue is whether the generator will be able to service the
steady state load of the A/C. That'll depend on the size A/C I need,
but the spec for a 5000 BTU is 4.9 amps. I think I'll need a larger
one though. Anyway, worst case, I get the A/C installed, rent an
EU1000i, find it doesn't work, and go for the 2000i.

========================

Sounds like a plan.

Good luck and be sure and let us know how it all works out.

Walt Bilofsky wrote in
:

Anyway, worst case, I get the A/C installed, rent an
EU1000i, find it doesn't work, and go for the 2000i.

- Walt Bilofsky



Now, that's a good idea.