Has anyone hooked up a Raymarine ST6001+ core pack to an old BenMar
rotary actuator? If so, what problems did you have to solve? How does
the combination work for you?

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

I have been hooking Autohelm and Raymarine ST model controls to other mfg
actuators for several year. (my boat and helm demands are too much for
Raymarine/Autohelm drives).

I can't address your specific question but can advise that the amount of
current your BenMar draws should meet that normally supplied by the
ST60001+. Your manuals might tell you this. If not you will have to add a
drive transistor circuit that provides both forward and reverse power
polarity.

If your BenMar provided position feed back to the control, then that will
have to match the resistance ranges that the control unit is expecting and
if not, you won't be able to calibrate the rudder location without a
Raymarine rudder position unit.

I'm using a linear drive unit from Alpha and had to change the feed back
potentiometer in this drive unit. Not easy to find, but I finally did.

If I weren't a DIY Tinker', I probably wouldn't have a AP. Hydraulics just
seem to extreme for my open cockpit arrangement. (double ender Ingrid 5ft+
tiller)


--
My experience and opinion, FWIW
--
Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Steve wrote:

potentiometer in this drive unit. Not easy to find, but I finally did.

If I weren't a DIY Tinker', I probably wouldn't have a AP. Hydraulics just
seem to extreme for my open cockpit arrangement. (double ender Ingrid 5ft+
tiller)
Is your Alpha linear drive above deck? Is it waterproof?

Ta,

Evan Gatehouse

Thanks Steve -

The motor in the BenMar draws 15 amps, but it does so thru a pair of
relays - I only need to supply relay actuating current. It is my
understanding that the ST6001 has a single pair of drive outputs which
reverse polarity, so I will need to drive the pair of relays (one for
port actuation, one for starboard) thru some diodes I guess.

I have a concern tho - since the ST6001 thinks it is directly driving
the motor, does it have any "soft start" or other such nonsense imposed
on the actuation current? This could confound my use of the output for
relay actuation.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Steve wrote:
I have been hooking Autohelm and Raymarine ST model controls to other mfg
actuators for several year. (my boat and helm demands are too much for
Raymarine/Autohelm drives).

I can't address your specific question but can advise that the amount of
current your BenMar draws should meet that normally supplied by the
ST60001+. Your manuals might tell you this. If not you will have to add a
drive transistor circuit that provides both forward and reverse power
polarity.

If your BenMar provided position feed back to the control, then that will
have to match the resistance ranges that the control unit is expecting and
if not, you won't be able to calibrate the rudder location without a
Raymarine rudder position unit.

I'm using a linear drive unit from Alpha and had to change the feed back
potentiometer in this drive unit. Not easy to find, but I finally did.

If I weren't a DIY Tinker', I probably wouldn't have a AP. Hydraulics just
seem to extreme for my open cockpit arrangement. (double ender Ingrid 5ft+
tiller)

The motor in the BenMar draws 15 amps, but it does so thru a pair of
relays - I only need to supply relay actuating current. It is my
understanding that the ST6001 has a single pair of drive outputs which
reverse polarity, so I will need to drive the pair of relays (one for
port actuation, one for starboard) thru some diodes I guess.

I have a concern tho - since the ST6001 thinks it is directly driving
the motor, does it have any "soft start" or other such nonsense imposed
on the actuation current? This could confound my use of the output for
relay actuation.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Steve wrote:
I have been hooking Autohelm and Raymarine ST model controls to other
mfg
actuators for several year. (my boat and helm demands are too much for
Raymarine/Autohelm drives).

I can't address your specific question but can advise that the amount of
current your BenMar draws should meet that normally supplied by the
ST60001+. Your manuals might tell you this. If not you will have to add
a
drive transistor circuit that provides both forward and reverse power
polarity.

If your BenMar provided position feed back to the control, then that
will
have to match the resistance ranges that the control unit is expecting
and
if not, you won't be able to calibrate the rudder location without a
Raymarine rudder position unit.

One caution worth mentioning, I think, is that that particular Benmar drive,
if I'm reading this correctly, has huge torque capability. Setting up it's
limit switches before you first power on is worth the trouble. One Gent
called me for help after bending the rudder's tiller arm, and pulling a
couple of cable idler pulleys right off bulkheads. Some of the models had a
torque limiting jumper to adjust for the particular steering systems needs.

Old Chief Lynn

Lynn -

You're right of course. But mine is set up - it is currently driving
the boat with the old BenMar control head. I want to replace the
control head while keeping the actuator, and the limit switches are in
the actuator and so will be retained.

thanks
bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Lynn Coffelt wrote:
The motor in the BenMar draws 15 amps, but it does so thru a pair of
relays - I only need to supply relay actuating current. It is my
understanding that the ST6001 has a single pair of drive outputs which
reverse polarity, so I will need to drive the pair of relays (one for
port actuation, one for starboard) thru some diodes I guess.

I have a concern tho - since the ST6001 thinks it is directly driving
the motor, does it have any "soft start" or other such nonsense imposed
on the actuation current? This could confound my use of the output for
relay actuation.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Steve wrote:

I have been hooking Autohelm and Raymarine ST model controls to other

mfg

actuators for several year. (my boat and helm demands are too much for
Raymarine/Autohelm drives).

I can't address your specific question but can advise that the amount of
current your BenMar draws should meet that normally supplied by the
ST60001+. Your manuals might tell you this. If not you will have to add

a

drive transistor circuit that provides both forward and reverse power
polarity.

If your BenMar provided position feed back to the control, then that

will

have to match the resistance ranges that the control unit is expecting

and

if not, you won't be able to calibrate the rudder location without a
Raymarine rudder position unit.


One caution worth mentioning, I think, is that that particular Benmar drive,
if I'm reading this correctly, has huge torque capability. Setting up it's
limit switches before you first power on is worth the trouble. One Gent
called me for help after bending the rudder's tiller arm, and pulling a
couple of cable idler pulleys right off bulkheads. Some of the models had a
torque limiting jumper to adjust for the particular steering systems needs.

Old Chief Lynn

Great!
Next time you sail by Anacortes, wave!
Old Chief Lynn

"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...
Lynn -

You're right of course. But mine is set up - it is currently driving
the boat with the old BenMar control head. I want to replace the
control head while keeping the actuator, and the limit switches are in
the actuator and so will be retained.

thanks
bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Lynn Coffelt wrote:
The motor in the BenMar draws 15 amps, but it does so thru a pair of
relays - I only need to supply relay actuating current. It is my
understanding that the ST6001 has a single pair of drive outputs which
reverse polarity, so I will need to drive the pair of relays (one for
port actuation, one for starboard) thru some diodes I guess.

I have a concern tho - since the ST6001 thinks it is directly driving
the motor, does it have any "soft start" or other such nonsense imposed
on the actuation current? This could confound my use of the output for
relay actuation.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Steve wrote:

I have been hooking Autohelm and Raymarine ST model controls to other

mfg

actuators for several year. (my boat and helm demands are too much for
Raymarine/Autohelm drives).

I can't address your specific question but can advise that the amount
of
current your BenMar draws should meet that normally supplied by the
ST60001+. Your manuals might tell you this. If not you will have to add

a

drive transistor circuit that provides both forward and reverse power
polarity.

If your BenMar provided position feed back to the control, then that

will

have to match the resistance ranges that the control unit is expecting

and

if not, you won't be able to calibrate the rudder location without a
Raymarine rudder position unit.


One caution worth mentioning, I think, is that that particular Benmar
drive,
if I'm reading this correctly, has huge torque capability. Setting up
it's
limit switches before you first power on is worth the trouble. One Gent
called me for help after bending the rudder's tiller arm, and pulling a
couple of cable idler pulleys right off bulkheads. Some of the models
had a
torque limiting jumper to adjust for the particular steering systems
needs.

Old Chief Lynn

Bob,

We have done this in the past with the help of John at the JRJ Group,
which I think is near you. They are the ComNav Distributor in US
360-571-5835.We used a kit he recommended which was easy to install.

Some Issues you should be aware of.
1. The Raymarine electronics are only rated for 15 AMPS and will not
drive (for very long ) the Benmar drive.
2. The Raymarine unit has a "Soft start" PWM output so driving the
relays could be a problem when the voltage to the relays is below the
hold voltage.
3.You will need to install a Rudder feedback.
4. The Comnav unit we are using (NX2 electronics)has a limit you set so
the limit switches are not needed.
5.The ComNav Pilot is much better at steering than the Ray unit we had
on another boat plus it was less expensive.

This was all pretty painless and has worked for 2 years.
Gadget

RW Salnick wrote:
Lynn -

You're right of course. But mine is set up - it is currently driving
the boat with the old BenMar control head. I want to replace the
control head while keeping the actuator, and the limit switches are in
the actuator and so will be retained.

thanks
bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Lynn Coffelt wrote:
The motor in the BenMar draws 15 amps, but it does so thru a pair of
relays - I only need to supply relay actuating current. It is my
understanding that the ST6001 has a single pair of drive outputs which
reverse polarity, so I will need to drive the pair of relays (one for
port actuation, one for starboard) thru some diodes I guess.

I have a concern tho - since the ST6001 thinks it is directly driving
the motor, does it have any "soft start" or other such nonsense imposed
on the actuation current? This could confound my use of the output for
relay actuation.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Steve wrote:

I have been hooking Autohelm and Raymarine ST model controls to other

mfg

actuators for several year. (my boat and helm demands are too much for
Raymarine/Autohelm drives).

I can't address your specific question but can advise that the amount of
current your BenMar draws should meet that normally supplied by the
ST60001+. Your manuals might tell you this. If not you will have to add

a

drive transistor circuit that provides both forward and reverse power
polarity.

If your BenMar provided position feed back to the control, then that

will

have to match the resistance ranges that the control unit is expecting

and

if not, you won't be able to calibrate the rudder location without a
Raymarine rudder position unit.


One caution worth mentioning, I think, is that that particular Benmar drive,
if I'm reading this correctly, has huge torque capability. Setting up it's
limit switches before you first power on is worth the trouble. One Gent
called me for help after bending the rudder's tiller arm, and pulling a
couple of cable idler pulleys right off bulkheads. Some of the models had a
torque limiting jumper to adjust for the particular steering systems needs.

Old Chief Lynn

DARN! I have been asking about the soft-start issue for a long time,
and this is the first answer I have gotten, and it is the wrong way for me.

I had never heard of ComNav before this message, so I did a Google
search on it - got some mixed reviews... I will post a new message to
this group asking for opinions...

GOGO Gadget wrote:
Bob,

We have done this in the past with the help of John at the JRJ Group,
which I think is near you. They are the ComNav Distributor in US
360-571-5835.We used a kit he recommended which was easy to install.

Some Issues you should be aware of.
1. The Raymarine electronics are only rated for 15 AMPS and will not
drive (for very long ) the Benmar drive.
2. The Raymarine unit has a "Soft start" PWM output so driving the
relays could be a problem when the voltage to the relays is below the
hold voltage.
3.You will need to install a Rudder feedback.
4. The Comnav unit we are using (NX2 electronics)has a limit you set so
the limit switches are not needed.
5.The ComNav Pilot is much better at steering than the Ray unit we had
on another boat plus it was less expensive.

This was all pretty painless and has worked for 2 years.
Gadget

RW Salnick wrote:

Lynn -

You're right of course. But mine is set up - it is currently driving
the boat with the old BenMar control head. I want to replace the
control head while keeping the actuator, and the limit switches are in
the actuator and so will be retained.

thanks
bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Lynn Coffelt wrote:

The motor in the BenMar draws 15 amps, but it does so thru a pair of
relays - I only need to supply relay actuating current. It is my
understanding that the ST6001 has a single pair of drive outputs which
reverse polarity, so I will need to drive the pair of relays (one for
port actuation, one for starboard) thru some diodes I guess.

I have a concern tho - since the ST6001 thinks it is directly driving
the motor, does it have any "soft start" or other such nonsense imposed
on the actuation current? This could confound my use of the output for
relay actuation.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Steve wrote:


I have been hooking Autohelm and Raymarine ST model controls to other

mfg


actuators for several year. (my boat and helm demands are too much for
Raymarine/Autohelm drives).

I can't address your specific question but can advise that the amount of
current your BenMar draws should meet that normally supplied by the
ST60001+. Your manuals might tell you this. If not you will have to add

a


drive transistor circuit that provides both forward and reverse power
polarity.

If your BenMar provided position feed back to the control, then that

will


have to match the resistance ranges that the control unit is expecting

and


if not, you won't be able to calibrate the rudder location without a
Raymarine rudder position unit.


One caution worth mentioning, I think, is that that particular Benmar drive,
if I'm reading this correctly, has huge torque capability. Setting up it's
limit switches before you first power on is worth the trouble. One Gent
called me for help after bending the rudder's tiller arm, and pulling a
couple of cable idler pulleys right off bulkheads. Some of the models had a
torque limiting jumper to adjust for the particular steering systems needs.

Old Chief Lynn

"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...
DARN! I have been asking about the soft-start issue for a long time,
and this is the first answer I have gotten, and it is the wrong way for
me.

I had never heard of ComNav before this message, so I did a Google
search on it - got some mixed reviews... I will post a new message to
this group asking for opinions...

GOGO Gadget wrote:
Bob,

We have done this in the past with the help of John at the JRJ Group,
which I think is near you. They are the ComNav Distributor in US
360-571-5835.We used a kit he recommended which was easy to install.

Some Issues you should be aware of.
1. The Raymarine electronics are only rated for 15 AMPS and will not
drive (for very long ) the Benmar drive.
2. The Raymarine unit has a "Soft start" PWM output so driving the
relays could be a problem when the voltage to the relays is below the
hold voltage.
3.You will need to install a Rudder feedback.
4. The Comnav unit we are using (NX2 electronics)has a limit you set so
the limit switches are not needed.
5.The ComNav Pilot is much better at steering than the Ray unit we had
on another boat plus it was less expensive.

This was all pretty painless and has worked for 2 years.
Gadget

We sell alot of ComNav, along with Raymarine autopilots. One nice feature
about ComNav rudder follower units is they have a kit available to rebuild
them in the field. My boss just did a couple of these on commercial fishing
boats last month.
73
Doug K7ABX