I'm starting to give some thought to my power source on the house boat I am
refitting. I am leaning towards using isolators to seperate the battery
banks. I would like some experienced feedback on what type of isolator to
use; diode, FET or solid state? All I know at this point is that the drop
across the diode type can play havoc with the battery life because of the
voltage drop never allowing a full charge (?). The other two kinds I have
not been able to get anything except that they have a much smaller v drop
(FET) or none (solid state). And that is from sales materials. Will using
isolators allow me to forgo the 12Both switch and just use an in line on/off
switch?

May seem like a dumb question but how do I know what size of charger I will
need or does size (amps) matter other than how quick it will charge the
batteries. I plan on having two start and two house batteries.

How important/neccessary is it to have a galvanic isolator on the AC side?

THX

On Sun, 22 Jan 2006 18:46:23 -0500, "Steve Lortie"
wrote:

I'm starting to give some thought to my power source on the house boat I am
refitting. I am leaning towards using isolators to seperate the battery
banks. I would like some experienced feedback on what type of isolator to
use; diode, FET or solid state? All I know at this point is that the drop
across the diode type can play havoc with the battery life because of the
voltage drop never allowing a full charge (?). The other two kinds I have
not been able to get anything except that they have a much smaller v drop
(FET) or none (solid state). And that is from sales materials. Will using
isolators allow me to forgo the 12Both switch and just use an in line on/off
switch?

May seem like a dumb question but how do I know what size of charger I will
need or does size (amps) matter other than how quick it will charge the
batteries. I plan on having two start and two house batteries.

How important/neccessary is it to have a galvanic isolator on the AC side?

THX

Take a look at www.smartgauge.co.uk you will find most of the answers
there!
Look at the "technical" section.
BTW IMHO a solenoid based split charge system beats a diode system.
Again all answers above.

Richard

Nb "Pound Eater" Parkend G+S
Please remove your hat when replying

A galvanic isolator provides inexpensive protection against galvanic
currents through the ground wire on the shore power cable. Under certain
circumstances, those currents can rapidly deplete your zinc(s) and
subject your prop to corrosion.

The only real alternatives to an isolator for this protection are an
isolation transformer (expensive, bulky, and heavy) or the electrical
isolation of the boat's underwater metal components from the boat's AC
and DC ground system.

Good luck.

Chuck



Steve Lortie wrote:
I'm starting to give some thought to my power source on the house boat I am
refitting. I am leaning towards using isolators to seperate the battery
banks. I would like some experienced feedback on what type of isolator to
use; diode, FET or solid state? All I know at this point is that the drop
across the diode type can play havoc with the battery life because of the
voltage drop never allowing a full charge (?). The other two kinds I have
not been able to get anything except that they have a much smaller v drop
(FET) or none (solid state). And that is from sales materials. Will using
isolators allow me to forgo the 12Both switch and just use an in line on/off
switch?

May seem like a dumb question but how do I know what size of charger I will
need or does size (amps) matter other than how quick it will charge the
batteries. I plan on having two start and two house batteries.

How important/neccessary is it to have a galvanic isolator on the AC side?

THX

More information than you needed:-

"The Galvanic Isolator Explained" at
http://www.yandina.com/galvanicIsolator.htm

"Does my galvanic isolator need a capacitor to conduct AC?" at
http://www.yandina.com/GIsolCap.html

"A non technical education on boat electrolysis" at
http://www.yandina.com/electrolysis.htm