Got a 12ga wire running along under a panel in a hard to get to place. With
great efforts and contortions, I can reach it to cut it and strip insulation
of the cut ends.

What I need to do is rejoin the cut ends, and come off with an additional
wire to go to a different location.

If there's slack, I can put the three ends together and use a wire nut.

Assuming there isn't enough slack for the wire nut trick, are there any neat
little critters out there for this specific purpose? What are they called?
Who has 'em?

If you are considering a wire nut, then you should hire a marine
electrician. If the wire is solid and not braided, sell the boat. Both of
these no no's are fundamental to marine wiring.

Proper way is to use a terminal strip. An alternate is to use a 3-way splice
available from West marine and many others. I won't go into the proper way
to crimp terminals.

Pat Harman


"RB" wrote in message
...
Got a 12ga wire running along under a panel in a hard to get to place.
With great efforts and contortions, I can reach it to cut it and strip
insulation of the cut ends.

What I need to do is rejoin the cut ends, and come off with an additional
wire to go to a different location.

If there's slack, I can put the three ends together and use a wire nut.

Assuming there isn't enough slack for the wire nut trick, are there any
neat little critters out there for this specific purpose? What are they
called? Who has 'em?

If there's slack, I can put the three ends together and use a wire nut.

Just say NO to using wire nuts anywhere on a boat. They're not designed to
withstand the vibrations and moisture in a marine environment. Use a splice
or terminal strip designed for marine use.

how about soldering?

Patrick Harman wrote:
If you are considering a wire nut, then you should hire a marine
electrician. If the wire is solid and not braided, sell the boat. Both of
these no no's are fundamental to marine wiring.

Proper way is to use a terminal strip. An alternate is to use a 3-way splice
available from West marine and many others. I won't go into the proper way
to crimp terminals.

Pat Harman


"RB" wrote in message
...

Got a 12ga wire running along under a panel in a hard to get to place.
With great efforts and contortions, I can reach it to cut it and strip
insulation of the cut ends.

What I need to do is rejoin the cut ends, and come off with an additional
wire to go to a different location.

If there's slack, I can put the three ends together and use a wire nut.

Assuming there isn't enough slack for the wire nut trick, are there any
neat little critters out there for this specific purpose? What are they
called? Who has 'em?





I agree: no wiring nuts.

But if you have room for a wiring nut, then you may have room for a
crimp connected pigtail instead, and that can be attached to a terminal
strip in an accessible place. A far better solution.

Chuck

I used Ideal set-screw wire connector on our boat for 20 year and have
had no problems. Set : http://www.goodmart.com/products/85313.htm

Hanz

chuck wrote:

Patrick Harman wrote:

If you are considering a wire nut, then you should hire a marine
electrician. If the wire is solid and not braided, sell the boat. Both
of these no no's are fundamental to marine wiring.

Proper way is to use a terminal strip. An alternate is to use a 3-way
splice available from West marine and many others. I won't go into the
proper way to crimp terminals.

Pat Harman


"RB" wrote in message
...

Got a 12ga wire running along under a panel in a hard to get to
place. With great efforts and contortions, I can reach it to cut it
and strip insulation of the cut ends.

What I need to do is rejoin the cut ends, and come off with an
additional wire to go to a different location.

If there's slack, I can put the three ends together and use a wire nut.

Assuming there isn't enough slack for the wire nut trick, are there
any neat little critters out there for this specific purpose? What
are they called? Who has 'em?





I agree: no wiring nuts.

But if you have room for a wiring nut, then you may have room for a
crimp connected pigtail instead, and that can be attached to a terminal
strip in an accessible place. A far better solution.

Chuck

ABYC reccomends crimping all wires onboard and DO NOT use wire nuts You an
buy a three way crimp for 12ga. or use a terminal strip. Soldering is not
recommeded from my ABYC readings.

Thise is talk about soldering on wire that is not exposed to the element.
But realistily everthing on a boat when cruising on salt water will be
exposed to the elements of SALT. so CRIMP CRIMP CRIMP all connections!


"Hanz" wrote in message
...
I used Ideal set-screw wire connector on our boat for 20 year and have had
no problems. Set : http://www.goodmart.com/products/85313.htm

Hanz

chuck wrote:

Patrick Harman wrote:

If you are considering a wire nut, then you should hire a marine
electrician. If the wire is solid and not braided, sell the boat. Both
of these no no's are fundamental to marine wiring.

Proper way is to use a terminal strip. An alternate is to use a 3-way
splice available from West marine and many others. I won't go into the
proper way to crimp terminals.

Pat Harman


"RB" wrote in message
...

Got a 12ga wire running along under a panel in a hard to get to place.
With great efforts and contortions, I can reach it to cut it and strip
insulation of the cut ends.

What I need to do is rejoin the cut ends, and come off with an
additional wire to go to a different location.

If there's slack, I can put the three ends together and use a wire
nut.

Assuming there isn't enough slack for the wire nut trick, are there any
neat little critters out there for this specific purpose? What are
they called? Who has 'em?





I agree: no wiring nuts.

But if you have room for a wiring nut, then you may have room for a crimp
connected pigtail instead, and that can be attached to a terminal strip
in an accessible place. A far better solution.

Chuck

And how is that better than a soldered connection sealed inside Ancor's hot melt glue lined heat shrink?


"Wet-n-Wild Bill" wrote in message m...
ABYC reccomends crimping all wires onboard and DO NOT use wire nuts You an buy a three way crimp for 12ga. or use a terminal
strip. Soldering is not recommeded from my ABYC readings.

Thise is talk about soldering on wire that is not exposed to the element. But realistily everthing on a boat when cruising on salt
water will be exposed to the elements of SALT. so CRIMP CRIMP CRIMP all connections!


"Hanz" wrote in message ...
I used Ideal set-screw wire connector on our boat for 20 year and have had no problems. Set :
http://www.goodmart.com/products/85313.htm

Hanz

chuck wrote:

Patrick Harman wrote:

If you are considering a wire nut, then you should hire a marine electrician. If the wire is solid and not braided, sell the
boat. Both of these no no's are fundamental to marine wiring.

Proper way is to use a terminal strip. An alternate is to use a 3-way splice available from West marine and many others. I
won't go into the proper way to crimp terminals.

Pat Harman


"RB" wrote in message ...

Got a 12ga wire running along under a panel in a hard to get to place. With great efforts and contortions, I can reach it to
cut it and strip insulation of the cut ends.

What I need to do is rejoin the cut ends, and come off with an additional wire to go to a different location.

If there's slack, I can put the three ends together and use a wire nut.

Assuming there isn't enough slack for the wire nut trick, are there any neat little critters out there for this specific
purpose? What are they called? Who has 'em?





I agree: no wiring nuts.

But if you have room for a wiring nut, then you may have room for a crimp connected pigtail instead, and that can be attached to
a terminal strip in an accessible place. A far better solution.

Chuck

When I got my Tyler 29, the nav lights, among others, were wired with
juke box wire and wire nuts.

The boat is / has been used in mainly fresh water.

I decided to keep an eye on it, call it an empirical study. I made
sure I had some wire and nuts available, and waited for it to sink the
boat, so to speak.

Portents abound, prophets wail, but they remain out in the wilderness,
unfulfilled, with no light save my nav lights, for 9 years that I know
of, and who knows how long before I got the boat.

Doom and gloom forcast nowithstanding, I wait, prepared for
catastrophe. I give them a wiggle every spring to see if their nuts
will fall off. Not yet. The now blackened copper visible has oxidised
as much as it will, like a copper penny, still trustworthy.

It all makes me think there is a plot to keep non-millionaires off of
the water, by any means, including terror tales, establishment
regulations inspected and enforced or not, and who knows what I do not
know.

I did rewire the bilge pump, which has never seen "active service," as
if waiting for the bombers in the tx hut isn't active enough. I can see
if the nav lights are on or off, so will know immediately if another
bulb gives out, or even if a wire disintegrates. I may install led
lamps, and keep waiting to the inevitable wire nut disaster popularily
forecasted.

I said "fresh water," remember? And, I do not route wires where their
ends are likely to get wet. If I do work for others, I work "to spec",
for price or bling standard.

Cobbler's shoes?

Terry K

Terry K wrote:
When I got my Tyler 29, the nav lights, among others, were wired with
juke box wire and wire nuts.

The boat is / has been used in mainly fresh water.

I decided to keep an eye on it, call it an empirical study. I made
sure I had some wire and nuts available, and waited for it to sink the
boat, so to speak.

Portents abound, prophets wail, but they remain out in the wilderness,
unfulfilled, with no light save my nav lights, for 9 years that I know
of, and who knows how long before I got the boat.

Doom and gloom forcast nowithstanding, I wait, prepared for
catastrophe. I give them a wiggle every spring to see if their nuts
will fall off. Not yet. The now blackened copper visible has oxidised
as much as it will, like a copper penny, still trustworthy.

It all makes me think there is a plot to keep non-millionaires off of
the water, by any means, including terror tales, establishment
regulations inspected and enforced or not, and who knows what I do not
know.

I did rewire the bilge pump, which has never seen "active service," as
if waiting for the bombers in the tx hut isn't active enough. I can see
if the nav lights are on or off, so will know immediately if another
bulb gives out, or even if a wire disintegrates. I may install led
lamps, and keep waiting to the inevitable wire nut disaster popularily
forecasted.

I said "fresh water," remember? And, I do not route wires where their
ends are likely to get wet. If I do work for others, I work "to spec",
for price or bling standard.

Cobbler's shoes?

Terry K


Interesting post, Terry. Do you know when the boat was built and whether
the wiring is original? It would be useful to know how many years the
existing wiring has been in place.

Of course, in fresh water service, except for vibration, the environment
is not a whole lot different from that experienced by conventional AC
wiring on land.

I wonder how many boats so wired are out there. It would also be
interesting to hear experiences with wire nuts in a sal****er environment.

Chuck