"Jack Erbes" skrev i en meddelelse
...

SNIP

http://www.reade.com/Conversion/wire_gauge.html

Persistance and google, that will conquer all...

Yes, I should have tried with *more* persistance and the right words ...
Thank you!

--
Flemming Torp
'kun en tåbe frygter ikke haven'

"Shaun Van Poecke" wrote in news:5BUFh.5981
:

spade connectors

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAACCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK KK!
NO SPADE CONNECTORS!!

Captain's Mast will be at noon, followed by the floggings and keel
hauling after lunch.

Now, why do I act this way with you pondering spade lugs on a boat
POUNDING AWAY IN THE SURF so hard it juggles stuff loose?

For tomorrow, write on the blackboard 500 times:

"I will only use RING terminals..."
"I will only use RING terminals..."
"I will only use RING terminals..."
"I will only use RING terminals..."
"I will only use RING terminals..."
"I will only use RING terminals..."
"I will only use RING terminals..."
"I will only use RING terminals..."
"I will only use RING terminals..."

Thanks.....

A good deal of modern boat electronics wiring is connected to terminal
blocks by sticking the end of the wire into a hole where a screw-down clamp
holds the wire in place. It always looked like a not too smart idea to me,
but they neglected to ask me when the equipment was being designed.
My question is: How do you experts treat the wire ends that go into the
terminal block holes?
1. I usually twist the strands tightly, clockwise, before putting into
the hole. A couple of real Pros said this was bad practice. However I
believe it helps prevent "wild hairs", and makes sure each strand gets a
tight mechanical squeezing into the circuit.
2. Sometimes I twist the strands togather and flow just a very small
bit of solder into the last 1/4 inch (or less if quick on the trigger). I
know the old wives tales about solder cold flow loosening the connection
after time, and the solder creating a stress riser that breaks strands with
vibration. It seems to me, and with lots of "miles" and hundreds of
installations, nobody except the "Pros" have complained.

I realize that under aircraft rules, the solder would be strictly
forbidden, but with well tied and supported wire bundles, I have yet to find
my own connections coming back to haunt me. (I lie a little too, no man is
perfect) (except the Captain, of course)

Old Chief Lynn

On Fri, 2 Mar 2007 16:05:36 -0800, "Lynn Coffelt"
wrote:

A good deal of modern boat electronics wiring is connected to terminal
blocks by sticking the end of the wire into a hole where a screw-down clamp
holds the wire in place. It always looked like a not too smart idea to me,
but they neglected to ask me when the equipment was being designed.
My question is: How do you experts treat the wire ends that go into the
terminal block holes?

Europeans frequently use these compression terminals (Phoenix,
Weidmuller and other make nice terminal block systems using them), and
use ferrules (sp?) on the wires - metal sleeves, possibly with a
plastic part to go over the wire insulation - the ferrules are crimped
on the wire, before inserting the wire in the terminal, and make a
very neat installation. The normal ferrules do make it difficult to
get two wires in a terminal, but there are ferrules designed
specifically to handle two wires (I've never used them myself.)

These ferrules and crimp tools are available from Digikey, Newark and
others.

These European terminal block systems make really nice assemblies -
much nicer than our usual barrier blocks. With the optional parts
that allow you to bridge terminals, you can make quite fancy
distribution systems. See
http://members.shaw.ca/peterbb/dinblock.html

--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

"Lynn Coffelt" wrote in
:

2. Sometimes I twist the strands togather and flow just a very
small
bit of solder into the last 1/4 inch (or less if quick on the
trigger). I know the old wives tales about solder cold flow loosening
the connection after time, and the solder creating a stress riser that
breaks strands with vibration. It seems to me, and with lots of
"miles" and hundreds of installations, nobody except the "Pros" have
complained.



Unfortunately, the combo of copper wire shorted to lead/zinc solder forms
a GREAT little battery that eats the copper right where the solder ends
going up the wire. The salt air is really hard on it, even if there's no
spray. Electrolysis happens.

Europeans, possibly the British, are the reason for those little wire
blocks with the clamps on them. I don't think they are a bad thing. All
Lionheart's tiepoints in the whole NMEA system use them at the various
"stations" (helm, nav, main data point where the multiplexer and power
come from). None have ever come loose from either stranded or solid
wires. None ever turned green, like the USA screw blocks with crimped-on
ring terminals do. They seem to stay nice and tight, to me.

Larry

(Larry)
Unfortunately, the combo of copper wire shorted to lead/zinc solder forms
a GREAT little battery that eats the copper right where the solder ends
going up the wire. The salt air is really hard on it, even if there's no
spray. Electrolysis happens.

Yeah, I suppose. Somewhat like tinned crimp-on lugs on copper wire. Or
63/37 solder on copper pcb's. Or molded-on battery post connectors on
battery cables, or.........
Well, to be fair, I've seen quite a lot of copper wire eaten off where
joined to tin/lead solder, but it usually took an hour or two under salt
water..... or not flushed with fresh water immediately after salt water
spray or immersion.
Sealing terminal blocks away from salt water (or any water, for that
matter) isn't a bad tradition, but my objection to the way some of the
"European" blocks are being used does not protect them from the atmosphere
(or water running down behind the instrument panel..... heh heh heh..
When an occasional boat from here gets a pilot house window smashed out
during a heavy sea (in the North Pacific), most everything with open backs
and those cute little "European" terminal blocks is junk before it is
possible to throw it into fresh running water.

Old Chief Lynn

are most people running their wiring inside conduit, or
just using a wiring wrap to keep things tidy?

Bear in mind you're not just trying to keep them tidy. It's important to
keep them secure from movement. The bouncing action of the waves is not
good for maintaining connections. Stuff moves, cracks and corrosion starts.

On Sat, 3 Mar 2007 16:36:19 -0000, JohnDW
wrote:

Peter Bennett, in article 0inhu2helpvoua2dr1h3ekkopfsr67qjp1
, says...
On Fri, 2 Mar 2007 16:05:36 -0800, "Lynn Coffelt"
wrote:

A good deal of modern boat electronics wiring is connected to terminal
blocks by sticking the end of the wire into a hole where a screw-down clamp
holds the wire in place. It always looked like a not too smart idea to me,
but they neglected to ask me when the equipment was being designed.
My question is: How do you experts treat the wire ends that go into the
terminal block holes?

Europeans frequently use these compression terminals (Phoenix,
Weidmuller and other make nice terminal block systems using them), and
use ferrules (sp?) on the wires - metal sleeves, possibly with a
plastic part to go over the wire insulation - the ferrules are crimped
on the wire, before inserting the wire in the terminal, and make a
very neat installation. The normal ferrules do make it difficult to
get two wires in a terminal, but there are ferrules designed
specifically to handle two wires (I've never used them myself.)

These ferrules and crimp tools are available from Digikey, Newark and
others.

These European terminal block systems make really nice assemblies -
much nicer than our usual barrier blocks. With the optional parts
that allow you to bridge terminals, you can make quite fancy
distribution systems. See
http://members.shaw.ca/peterbb/dinblock.html


As a European of the British variety I would never use
(European designed) DIN rails on a boat - or anywhere subject
to moisture. They are intended for power wiring in enclosed
locations ONLY. OK, if you enclose them in a waterproof box
but not otherwise.

I think I'm agreeing with Larry - Use crimped ring terminals
on screw connectors. At least, with these, if the screw does
loosen due to vibration, the wire doesn't become disconnected
and go walkabouts. As an alternative, I'll use screw
connectors with the wire crimped into a bootlace ferrule or,
preferably, one with a hook on the end so the wire won't come
out in the event of the screw vibrating loose. (similar to
this: http://tinyurl.com/32pmmu)

And, yes, keep the metalwork the same so you don't get
electrolytic corrosion.

Ring terminals, hooked blades, bootlace ferrule or spade connectors,
IMHO if the terminal comes a bit loose you have probably got a burn
out on the connector and wire end anyway!
If you are considering Din rail mount terminals then take a look at
WAGO spring loaded terminals, no screws to come loose at all!

--

Richard

Nb "Pound Eater" Parkend G+S
"Governments are like Nappies, they should be changed often."
(For the same reason)

In article ,
"Lynn Coffelt" wrote:

When an occasional boat from here gets a pilot house window smashed out
during a heavy sea (in the North Pacific), most everything with open backs
and those cute little "European" terminal blocks is junk before it is
possible to throw it into fresh running water.

Old Chief Lynn

I can attest to the above in SPADES.... NOTHING beats nice Enclosed
Equipment with Packing Glands, with the connections inside, done with
Crimp Terminals on a Terminal Strip. All the old Furuno Radar
Interconnect Cables were done this way, never saw one of those die
from corrosion, unless the ORing, on the cover failed.

Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

Bruce in Alaska wrote in news:bruceg-
:

Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @



Got your Skype request. Did it approve ok?

Larry
--
If the damned government isn't going to enforce
immigration laws, can they at LEAST park an ICE
paddy wagon in front of WalMart so I can find
a parking place and make the checkout line SHORTER?!