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#1
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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WiFi Success
Because this issue pops up with some frequency I wanted to post a
compendium of what I have found to be successful. This is now the 3rd revision of my system and it has been flawlessly operational for a couple months. The components of the system a Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 Router DD-WRT Version 23 service pack 2 Auto AP 8 dB outdoor omni antnenna TEW-AO080 The heart of this system is the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54. This as a Broadcom chip based Router/Access Point. Like the similarly-chipped Linksys routers, it can be flashed with third party firmware to convert it into a bridge suitable for tapping into whatever WiFi networks you may find available. They are relatively cheap at about $50. The main advantages to this piece of hardware are size and power. The board is only 5" x 5" and is ideally suited to being repackaged into a weather-tight housing and used at the top of a mast. My housing is a custom-made bottom-opening stainless housing fabricated from 2" x 6" x 0.120" rectangular tubing. It is sturdy enough to allow mounting of a 20" antenna directly to the housing. The whole arrangement is powered by POE. A small disadvantage of this system over a Linkys-based system is that it runs on 5V instead of 12V. I just put a resistor in line and run it off house power. I mentioned that the second advantage is power. There is an onboard 200 mW amp in the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54. Granted, bridges don't really need transmit amps as much as they need clean and sensitive Rx circuits, but it does seem to help in some instances. If you have never had any experience with DD-WRT, you are in for a treat. This open source freeware project gives you full access to all the hardware capabilities of your router/bridge. First off, without this firmware, an off-the-shelf router CAN NOT act as a bridge. This firmware also shows you detailed signal specs for every access point available to you, you can change the power output of the signal amplifier, and you have ROOT LEVEL ACCESS!!. Yes, these inexpensive little boxes are actually full fledged mini computers with 16 mb of memory. They have web servers so that you can use a GUI-based configuration page, but that is just the tip of the iceberg. You can also load in your own software to run. For the mariner, the best add- on software is Auto AP. Auto AP is a script that polls all the available access points every 30 seconds. It determines which one has the best signal and connects to that one. You can also exclude certain access points in case they require a subscription (like the one run by the marina). You can also give preference to access points that you prefer when they are available (such as the one that is backed up by a T1 line). The power that is available in a $50 router is staggering if you are geeky enough to get the firmware flashed. It is not as easy to flash this router as it is flashing the Linksys, but it is well worth it. The Wiki tutorials are well written and provide all the information necessary. They are linked below. Success with systems of this nature presume some knowledge of Unix/ Linux, TCP/IP, and base level geekiness/ hardware hacking. If all of this is intimidating, maybe you have a 14 year old nephew who can help you out. Just print out this page and show it around. I won't help you with any problems you may have setting up a system like this, but I am open to hearing any criticism you may have of my approach or methods for improvement. Ideally there needs to be a Wiki set up for this issue as it of near universal interest to liveaboards and Caribbean cruisers. Does anyone know of a likely host? (Maybe sailnet.com, setsail.com, ssca.org) Router: http://www.buffalo-technology.com/pr...?productid=124 Antenna: http://www.trendnet.com/store/prodde...&tree=Wireless Flashing with DD-WRT: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php...and_WZR-RS-G54 Note: The firmwa dd-wrt.v23_mini_generic.bin mentioned in the tutorial has never worked for me, I have had success using dd- wrt.v23_generic.bin instead. Setting up the Bridge: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Wireless_Bridge Installing and using Auto AP: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Autoap David Braun S/V Nausicaa |
#2
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
On Mar 29, 12:16 pm, wrote:
Because this issue pops up with some frequency I wanted to post a compendium of what I have found to be successful. This is now the 3rd revision of my system and it has been flawlessly operational for a couple months. The components of the system a Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 Router DD-WRT Version 23 service pack 2 Auto AP 8 dB outdoor omni antnenna TEW-AO080 The heart of this system is the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54. This as a Broadcom chip based Router/Access Point. Like the similarly-chipped Linksys routers, it can be flashed with third party firmware to convert it into a bridge suitable for tapping into whatever WiFi networks you may find available. They are relatively cheap at about $50. The main advantages to this piece of hardware are size and power. The board is only 5" x 5" and is ideally suited to being repackaged into a weather-tight housing and used at the top of a mast. My housing is a custom-made bottom-opening stainless housing fabricated from 2" x 6" x 0.120" rectangular tubing. It is sturdy enough to allow mounting of a 20" antenna directly to the housing. The whole arrangement is powered by POE. A small disadvantage of this system over a Linkys-based system is that it runs on 5V instead of 12V. I just put a resistor in line and run it off house power. I mentioned that the second advantage is power. There is an onboard 200 mW amp in the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54. Granted, bridges don't really need transmit amps as much as they need clean and sensitive Rx circuits, but it does seem to help in some instances. If you have never had any experience with DD-WRT, you are in for a treat. This open source freeware project gives you full access to all the hardware capabilities of your router/bridge. First off, without this firmware, an off-the-shelf router CAN NOT act as a bridge. This firmware also shows you detailed signal specs for every access point available to you, you can change the power output of the signal amplifier, and you have ROOT LEVEL ACCESS!!. Yes, these inexpensive little boxes are actually full fledged mini computers with 16 mb of memory. They have web servers so that you can use a GUI-based configuration page, but that is just the tip of the iceberg. You can also load in your own software to run. For the mariner, the best add- on software is Auto AP. Auto AP is a script that polls all the available access points every 30 seconds. It determines which one has the best signal and connects to that one. You can also exclude certain access points in case they require a subscription (like the one run by the marina). You can also give preference to access points that you prefer when they are available (such as the one that is backed up by a T1 line). The power that is available in a $50 router is staggering if you are geeky enough to get the firmware flashed. It is not as easy to flash this router as it is flashing the Linksys, but it is well worth it. The Wiki tutorials are well written and provide all the information necessary. They are linked below. Success with systems of this nature presume some knowledge of Unix/ Linux, TCP/IP, and base level geekiness/ hardware hacking. If all of this is intimidating, maybe you have a 14 year old nephew who can help you out. Just print out this page and show it around. I won't help you with any problems you may have setting up a system like this, but I am open to hearing any criticism you may have of my approach or methods for improvement. Ideally there needs to be a Wiki set up for this issue as it of near universal interest to liveaboards and Caribbean cruisers. Does anyone know of a likely host? (Maybe sailnet.com, setsail.com, ssca.org) Router:http://www.buffalo-technology.com/pr...il.php?product... Antenna:http://www.trendnet.com/store/prodde...wao080&tree=Wi... Flashing with DD-WRT:http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php...lo_WHR-G54S.2C... Note: The firmwa dd-wrt.v23_mini_generic.bin mentioned in the tutorial has never worked for me, I have had success using dd- wrt.v23_generic.bin instead. Setting up the Bridge:http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Wireless_Bridge Installing and using Auto AP:http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Autoap David Braun S/V Nausicaa Hi, David, Reading your post has been interesting as you may know that I'm actively trying to make my setup work. Unclear from what you wrote (or perhaps my level of ignorance not recognizing something), however, is whether your arrangement requires your connection to a cable, or if you are doing a wifi setup as I'm attempting - one which doesn't require a physical connection from the computer to the outside world. My setup has a bridge at the top of the mast, and an AP in the boat. That worked for a time, including with a Vonage router in between. Somehow it went off the rails, and I'm currently attempting to make it retrack. So, are you cable-connected, or do you have some other device which allows wifi connectivity to your setup (thence through the buffalo to associate with a shore AP)? Thanks. L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog and/or http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its hands. You seek problems because you need their gifts. |
#3
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
NOTE: The post I am replying to was originalyl posted to
rec.boats.electronics, but a reply generated a cross post to rec.boats.cruising, so I have quoted the orinal post text for the benefit of the late comers I did mention that I was unlikely to be willing to help people get their systems set up. This is largely because of the discussions that have surrounded the difficulties that you have been experiencing. I simply don't have that much time to help with basic networking issues that are adequately addressed elsewhere on the internet. That said, I use a system that is wired into my computer. BUT, there is no reason whatsoever that I couldn't add a wireless router and have a system such as you describe where the final connection to the computer you are using is a wireless one. That final connection is the easy part. The hard part is the bridge and that aspect is addressed in my post. As I understand your difficulties, it has to do with a lack of customizeability (is that a word?) of your bridge. The solution I posted absolutely solves that issue. Now here is the big hurdle: once you implement the hardware solution, do you have the TCP/IP expertise to make use of your massively increased customizeability? I suggest that you get a book like TCP/IP for Dummies (no disrespect intended... that is the actual title) and learn how networks are bridged and routed together. This will go a long ways towards allowing you to solve your own issues when they occur in the islands. David S/V Nausicaa On Mar 30, 9:55 am, "Skip Gundlach" wrote: On Mar 29, 12:16 pm, wrote: Because this issue pops up with some frequency I wanted to post a compendium of what I have found to be successful. This is now the 3rd revision of my system and it has been flawlessly operational for a couple months. The components of the system a Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 Router DD-WRT Version 23 service pack 2 Auto AP 8 dB outdoor omni antnenna TEW-AO080 The heart of this system is the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54. This as a Broadcom chip based Router/Access Point. Like the similarly-chipped Linksys routers, it can be flashed with third party firmware to convert it into a bridge suitable for tapping into whatever WiFi networks you may find available. They are relatively cheap at about $50. The main advantages to this piece of hardware are size and power. The board is only 5" x 5" and is ideally suited to being repackaged into a weather-tight housing and used at the top of a mast. My housing is a custom-made bottom-opening stainless housing fabricated from 2" x 6" x 0.120" rectangular tubing. It is sturdy enough to allow mounting of a 20" antenna directly to the housing. The whole arrangement is powered by POE. A small disadvantage of this system over a Linkys-based system is that it runs on 5V instead of 12V. I just put a resistor in line and run it off house power. I mentioned that the second advantage is power. There is an onboard 200 mW amp in the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54. Granted, bridges don't really need transmit amps as much as they need clean and sensitive Rx circuits, but it does seem to help in some instances. If you have never had any experience with DD-WRT, you are in for a treat. This open source freeware project gives you full access to all the hardware capabilities of your router/bridge. First off, without this firmware, an off-the-shelf router CAN NOT act as a bridge. This firmware also shows you detailed signal specs for every access point available to you, you can change the power output of the signal amplifier, and you have ROOT LEVEL ACCESS!!. Yes, these inexpensive little boxes are actually full fledged mini computers with 16 mb of memory. They have web servers so that you can use a GUI-based configuration page, but that is just the tip of the iceberg. You can also load in your own software to run. For the mariner, the best add- on software is Auto AP. Auto AP is a script that polls all the available access points every 30 seconds. It determines which one has the best signal and connects to that one. You can also exclude certain access points in case they require a subscription (like the one run by the marina). You can also give preference to access points that you prefer when they are available (such as the one that is backed up by a T1 line). The power that is available in a $50 router is staggering if you are geeky enough to get the firmware flashed. It is not as easy to flash this router as it is flashing the Linksys, but it is well worth it. The Wiki tutorials are well written and provide all the information necessary. They are linked below. Success with systems of this nature presume some knowledge of Unix/ Linux, TCP/IP, and base level geekiness/ hardware hacking. If all of this is intimidating, maybe you have a 14 year old nephew who can help you out. Just print out this page and show it around. I won't help you with any problems you may have setting up a system like this, but I am open to hearing any criticism you may have of my approach or methods for improvement. Ideally there needs to be a Wiki set up for this issue as it of near universal interest to liveaboards and Caribbean cruisers. Does anyone know of a likely host? (Maybe sailnet.com, setsail.com, ssca.org) Router:http://www.buffalo-technology.com/pr...il.php?product... Antenna:http://www.trendnet.com/store/prodde...wao080&tree=Wi... Flashing with DD-WRT:http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php...lo_WHR-G54S.2C... Note: The firmwa dd-wrt.v23_mini_generic.bin mentioned in the tutorial has never worked for me, I have had success using dd- wrt.v23_generic.bin instead. Setting up the Bridge:http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Wireless_Bridge Installing and using Auto AP:http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Autoap David Braun S/V Nausicaa Hi, David, Reading your post has been interesting as you may know that I'm actively trying to make my setup work. Unclear from what you wrote (or perhaps my level of ignorance not recognizing something), however, is whether your arrangement requires your connection to a cable, or if you are doing a wifi setup as I'm attempting - one which doesn't require a physical connection from the computer to the outside world. My setup has a bridge at the top of the mast, and an AP in the boat. That worked for a time, including with a Vonage router in between. Somehow it went off the rails, and I'm currently attempting to make it retrack. So, are you cable-connected, or do you have some other device which allows wifi connectivity to your setup (thence through the buffalo to associate with a shore AP)? Thanks. L8R Skip |
#4
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
On 30 Mar 2007 09:55:37 -0700, "Skip Gundlach"
wrote: My setup has a bridge at the top of the mast, and an AP in the boat. That worked for a time, including with a Vonage router in between. Somehow it went off the rails, and I'm currently attempting to make it retrack. I've been trying some new equipment since our last discussion about WiFi. My latest acquisition is an Engenius/Senao NOC-3220 EXT which I have configured as a bridge and interfaced with POE Cat-5 cable. It took a while to get it working, thanks in part to my inexperience, and thanks in part to sketchy documentation which unfortunately seems to be par for the course. My advice is to get your bridge first configured directly to a laptop so that you can confirm that your settings are correct. At that point you should be able to substitute an AP pre-configured on a different WiFi channel (maybe ch 1 instead of 6). Once you have the Ap/router working with a PC you should be able to plug in the Vonage box to the router and have it take off also. Take it one step at a time. It is important to avoid IP conflicts and/or incorrect subnet settings. |
#5
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
On Mar 30, 7:48 pm, Wayne.B wrote:
On 30 Mar 2007 09:55:37 -0700, "Skip Gundlach" wrote: My setup has a bridge at the top of the mast, and an AP in the boat. That worked for a time, including with a Vonage router in between. Somehow it went off the rails, and I'm currently attempting to make it retrack. I've been trying some new equipment since our last discussion about WiFi. My latest acquisition is an Engenius/Senao NOC-3220 EXT which I have configured as a bridge and interfaced with POE Cat-5 cable. It took a while to get it working, thanks in part to my inexperience, and thanks in part to sketchy documentation which unfortunately seems to be par for the course. My advice is to get your bridge first configured directly to a laptop so that you can confirm that your settings are correct. At that point you should be able to substitute an AP pre-configured on a different WiFi channel (maybe ch 1 instead of 6). Once you have the Ap/router working with a PC you should be able to plug in the Vonage box to the router and have it take off also. Take it one step at a time. It is important to avoid IP conflicts and/or incorrect subnet settings. Hi, Wayne, and list, My objective is/was/still is to avoid repetitious plugging and unplugging of cables. For that matter, it's my objective to set it and forget it as to cables; I want to be able to address the bridge wirelessly so that each new harbor can be configured without my having to do the plug and play bit. It had been my original presumption that I would have to do as you described, but Bill Kearney and others in this space have asserted that it's not necessary. I have yet to achieve a stable configuration which doesn't have the plug/unplug/replug requirement, let alone that plus handset/dial tone telephony, but my second generation unit(s) have yet to surface as I have a few more pressing issues to address at the moment. Thus, I expect to succeed at that eventually. I had it once, but it went Tango Uniform a while into my experience which was, in a word, ecstatic, while it lasted. Thus, for the immediate time, I am doing as Dave has done, and have nothing other than a mast-top configured bridge, connected to an antenna and POE, with ethernet to my computer. It allows skype and google internet telephony, and surf an mail, which suffices for right now. L8R Skip |
#6
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
On 30 Mar 2007 20:01:04 -0700, "Skip Gundlach"
wrote: For that matter, it's my objective to set it and forget it as to cables; I want to be able to address the bridge wirelessly so that each new harbor can be configured without my having to do the plug and play bit. It had been my original presumption that I would have to do as you described, but Bill Kearney and others in this space have asserted that it's not necessary. At the very least the bridge will have to be reconfigured to address a new SSID unless you only look for defaults. Reconfiguring should be really quick and painless once you get the process down. 1. Network scan 2. Select SSID 3. Connect 4. Test with PC 5. Disconnect PC, connect AP/router, test |
#7
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
On Mar 31, 12:11 am, Wayne.B wrote:
On 30 Mar 2007 20:01:04 -0700, "Skip Gundlach" wrote: For that matter, it's my objective to set it and forget it as to cables; I want to be able to address the bridge wirelessly so that each new harbor can be configured without my having to do the plug and play bit. It had been my original presumption that I would have to do as you described, but Bill Kearney and others in this space have asserted that it's not necessary. At the very least the bridge will have to be reconfigured to address a new SSID unless you only look for defaults. Reconfiguring should be really quick and painless once you get the process down. 1. Network scan 2. Select SSID 3. Connect 4. Test with PC 5. Disconnect PC, connect AP/router, test Agreed. However, see above. I have no problem with my current unit. I knew it well enough to guide Lydia by memory to test it when I first put it in, from the top of the mast. I just don't want to do the unplug/replug/return-to-setup stages if I don't have to; I've been repeatedly assured it can be done... L8R Skip, off to the Blue Angels and other flying non-pigs :{)) |
#8
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
On 31 Mar 2007 05:14:27 -0700, "Skip Gundlach"
wrote: I just don't want to do the unplug/replug/return-to-setup stages if I don't have to; I've been repeatedly assured it can be done... We'll see but I wouldn't get your hopes up. I have spent over 6 months working from the boat in the last 2 years while cruising 8,000 miles, sometimes connecting to 2 or 3 different APs in a single week. Almost all have unique SSIDs, and many require sign-on through a web proxy. |
#9
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
I was reluctant to mention the following in my original post due to
the fact that it involves beta software and as such may be flakier than desired, but DD-WRT firmware does support a wireless repeater function: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php...eless_Repeater It requires the v24 beta firmware, but the finalized v24 firmware is expected soon. The nice thing about this setup is that you can use your router as a bridge that is directly wired to your computer. Once you get it working flawlessly, you just change the "wireless mode" pull-down menu to select "repeater" and you are doing the same thing but without the ethernet cable. Note: I have not tried this. I am not interested in trying it. But based on my experience with DD-WRT, I know that it works and works well. The one aspect of this that I like is that avoids the need for ethernet up the mast. I am always skeptical that un-tinned, small guage, solid wire is just not durable in a marine environment. I expect that I will toy with this in the furture as a means of ensuring that if even my ethernet cable corrodes to the point of being un useable, I will just switch to repeater mode and do it wirelessly. David S/V Nausicaa On Mar 30, 8:01 pm, "Skip Gundlach" wrote: On Mar 30, 7:48 pm, Wayne.B wrote: On 30 Mar 2007 09:55:37 -0700, "Skip Gundlach" wrote: My setup has a bridge at the top of the mast, and an AP in the boat. That worked for a time, including with a Vonage router in between. Somehow it went off the rails, and I'm currently attempting to make it retrack. I've been trying some new equipment since our last discussion about WiFi. My latest acquisition is an Engenius/Senao NOC-3220 EXT which I have configured as a bridge and interfaced with POE Cat-5 cable. It took a while to get it working, thanks in part to my inexperience, and thanks in part to sketchy documentation which unfortunately seems to be par for the course. My advice is to get your bridge first configured directly to a laptop so that you can confirm that your settings are correct. At that point you should be able to substitute an AP pre-configured on a different WiFi channel (maybe ch 1 instead of 6). Once you have the Ap/router working with a PC you should be able to plug in the Vonage box to the router and have it take off also. Take it one step at a time. It is important to avoid IP conflicts and/or incorrect subnet settings. Hi, Wayne, and list, My objective is/was/still is to avoid repetitious plugging and unplugging of cables. For that matter, it's my objective to set it and forget it as to cables; I want to be able to address the bridge wirelessly so that each new harbor can be configured without my having to do the plug and play bit. It had been my original presumption that I would have to do as you described, but Bill Kearney and others in this space have asserted that it's not necessary. I have yet to achieve a stable configuration which doesn't have the plug/unplug/replug requirement, let alone that plus handset/dial tone telephony, but my second generation unit(s) have yet to surface as I have a few more pressing issues to address at the moment. Thus, I expect to succeed at that eventually. I had it once, but it went Tango Uniform a while into my experience which was, in a word, ecstatic, while it lasted. Thus, for the immediate time, I am doing as Dave has done, and have nothing other than a mast-top configured bridge, connected to an antenna and POE, with ethernet to my computer. It allows skype and google internet telephony, and surf an mail, which suffices for right now. L8R Skip |
#10
posted to rec.boats.electronics,rec.boats.cruising
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WiFi Success
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