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#1
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
My boat has non-standard color coding on the AC wiring, typically all
3 wires red instead of the US standard of black, white, green. Identifying the hot wire is easy but I'm not sure how to positively identify the neutral wire vs the safety ground. Measuring voltage from the hot wire yields 110 to either one. This is looking from the load end not the panel end of course. Anyone have suggestions? |
#2
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
Wayne.B wrote:
:My boat has non-standard color coding on the AC wiring, typically all :3 wires red instead of the US standard of black, white, green. :Identifying the hot wire is easy but I'm not sure how to positively :identify the neutral wire vs the safety ground. Measuring voltage :from the hot wire yields 110 to either one. This is looking from the :load end not the panel end of course. :Anyone have suggestions? Besides replace the wiring with something sane? Get a tone generator and receiver. You put the tone generator at a known end of the wire. It puts an RF signal on the wire, which you detect with the receiver. You should be able to find one locally for about $50 or so. |
#3
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
David Scheidt wrote:
Wayne.B wrote: :My boat has non-standard color coding on the AC wiring, typically all :3 wires red instead of the US standard of black, white, green. :Identifying the hot wire is easy but I'm not sure how to positively :identify the neutral wire vs the safety ground. Measuring voltage :from the hot wire yields 110 to either one. This is looking from the :load end not the panel end of course. :Anyone have suggestions? Besides replace the wiring with something sane? Get a tone generator and receiver. You put the tone generator at a known end of the wire. It puts an RF signal on the wire, which you detect with the receiver. You should be able to find one locally for about $50 or so. Well, the tone generator is one approach. I assume you don't have an isolation transformer. If you did, then the neutral and ground wires would be bonded at the transformer secondary and you'd never figure out which is which. Goes without saying that you should disconnect the shore power cable before feeling about. Sanely wired boats do not have the neutral and ground bonded onboard the boat. They are connected back at the marina's entrance panel. So you can use an ohmmeter, continuity tester, battery and light bulb, etc., or a tone generator to determine which red wire goes to the ground pin on the shore power connector. Or if you harbor a proclivity for neutrality, you could track down the neutral instead. Another technique (assuming your boat is actually wired for AC with receptacles, etc., is to use one of the "polarity testers" that plug into the outlets. They cost a few dollars and will tell you if the receptacle is miswired and if so, how. Short of rewiring, which certainly has its merits, buy a roll of green tape and white tape and as you identify ground and neutral, place a dab of tape on the wire. Good luck. Chuck ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#4
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
"Wayne.B" wrote:
My boat has non-standard color coding on the AC wiring, typically all 3 wires red instead of the US standard of black, white, green. Identifying the hot wire is easy but I'm not sure how to positively identify the neutral wire vs the safety ground. Measuring voltage from the hot wire yields 110 to either one. This is looking from the load end not the panel end of course. Anyone have suggestions? Turn on some loads and measure the return current in each conductor at 0 volts. The neutral should have the same current as the hot. The ground should carry no current. But, I'm willing to bet that the ground/neutrals have been mixed up between junctions and you will see some current on each. The only way to know for sure is to disconnect each run of wiring between junction boxes or splices and use a continuity tester. P.S. Mark everything with appropriate colored tape as you identify it. -- Paul Hovnanian ------------------------------------------------------------------ Trust the computer industry to shorten the term "Year 2000" to Y2K. It was this kind of thinking that got us in trouble in the first place. -- Adrian Tyvand |
#5
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
On Mon, 21 May 2007 14:44:10 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote: My boat has non-standard color coding on the AC wiring, typically all 3 wires red instead of the US standard of black, white, green. Identifying the hot wire is easy but I'm not sure how to positively identify the neutral wire vs the safety ground. Measuring voltage from the hot wire yields 110 to either one. This is looking from the load end not the panel end of course. Anyone have suggestions? Neutral and Ground should not be connected on-board. (although if the boat is wired with all red wires, there's no telling what strange things may be going on...) Disconnect the boat from shore power, and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the Ground pin on the shore power cable and the unknown wires. (If the boat has an inverter, make certain that it is disabled while doing _any_ work on the 120VAC system!) -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
#6
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
On Mon, 21 May 2007 18:16:26 -0700, Peter Bennett
wrote: Disconnect the boat from shore power, and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the Ground pin on the shore power cable and the unknown wires. (If the boat has an inverter, make certain that it is disabled while doing _any_ work on the 120VAC system!) Thanks. I think you meant to say the shore power connector (as opposed to the cord) if I'm understanding your advice correctly. |
#7
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
Wayne.B wrote in
: Anyone have suggestions? We could unplug the dock end and drag it into the boat's power panel. The ground pin on the dock plug is plainly marked. It's L shaped. Just use an ohmmeter or even a continuity light that's battery powered to find the right one. Larry -- Grade School Physics Factoid: A building cannot freefall into its own footprint without skilled demolition. |
#8
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
On Tue, 22 May 2007 02:54:15 +0000, Larry wrote:
We could unplug the dock end and drag it into the boat's power panel. The ground pin on the dock plug is plainly marked. It's L shaped. Just use an ohmmeter or even a continuity light that's battery powered to find the right one. I like that suggestion. The shore power cable is long enough to easily reach to where I need to do the testing. Let's hope that neutral and ground are not tied together somewhere. |
#9
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
On Tue, 22 May 2007 02:54:15 +0000, Larry wrote:
The ground pin on the dock plug is plainly marked. It's L shaped. It turns out that the L shaped pin is ground only on the 20 and 30 amp connectors. On a 50 amp connector it is neutral: http://www.marinco.com/docs/guides/Boater'sGuidetoACElectrical.pdf |
#10
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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AC wiring question - identifying neutral wire
On Mon, 21 May 2007 22:40:34 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote: On Mon, 21 May 2007 18:16:26 -0700, Peter Bennett wrote: Disconnect the boat from shore power, and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the Ground pin on the shore power cable and the unknown wires. (If the boat has an inverter, make certain that it is disabled while doing _any_ work on the 120VAC system!) Thanks. I think you meant to say the shore power connector (as opposed to the cord) if I'm understanding your advice correctly. Either one - it is probably easier to get the shore end of the cord near your mystery wires than to stretch the meter leads between the mystery wires and the shore power connector. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
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