there is a simple way to stop the alternator delivering current when
the regulator has a failure ?
Just not to overcharge the batteries.
According to what I know the B+ cannot be open (diode break), so as
the belt cannot be pulled away due to the water pump.

Thanks for any idea.

Manlio

Just disconnect the field wire from the alternator.
I wouldn't say that it couldn't happen but what sort of regulator failure do
you envision that would result in overcharging the batteries?

"Manlio" wrote in message
news
there is a simple way to stop the alternator delivering current when
the regulator has a failure ?
Just not to overcharge the batteries.
According to what I know the B+ cannot be open (diode break), so as
the belt cannot be pulled away due to the water pump.

Thanks for any idea.

Manlio

Followup to msg on Tue, 29 Apr 2008 01:18:41 +1000, "Faire dinkum"
:
(Original msg on bottom)

The output voltage is no more regulated and current flows
continuously in order to start warming up the batteries, i.e. the
regulator doesnt switch off the charge. I suppose it has been due to
temperature failure as the solid state regulator may have similar
problem.

The alternator is a Valeo type with only the B+ Negative and D+ wires
on output. I thought the D+ was the lamp line. I suppose you mean that
D+ is the excitation line. ( I had the idea it was internally
connected, then not reachable).
Pls be so kind to confirm.

Thanks for the fast answer.

Manlio


Just disconnect the field wire from the alternator.
I wouldn't say that it couldn't happen but what sort of regulator failure do
you envision that would result in overcharging the batteries?

"Manlio" wrote in message
news
there is a simple way to stop the alternator delivering current when
the regulator has a failure ?
Just not to overcharge the batteries.
According to what I know the B+ cannot be open (diode break), so as
the belt cannot be pulled away due to the water pump.

Thanks for any idea.

Manlio

Manilo,
Valeo makes lots of different alternators. If the regulator is already
shot, take all the wires off the alternator - you have little to loose.
If you know how to and can take out the brush rack, that would be a good
idea, too.
The D+ lead is usually the lamp AND the start up excitation, but any
unit run recently usually has enough residual field magnetism to self
start anyway.
Good Luck Guy
Matt Colie

Manlio wrote:
Followup to msg on Tue, 29 Apr 2008 01:18:41 +1000, "Faire dinkum"
:
(Original msg on bottom)

The output voltage is no more regulated and current flows
continuously in order to start warming up the batteries, i.e. the
regulator doesnt switch off the charge. I suppose it has been due to
temperature failure as the solid state regulator may have similar
problem.

The alternator is a Valeo type with only the B+ Negative and D+ wires
on output. I thought the D+ was the lamp line. I suppose you mean that
D+ is the excitation line. ( I had the idea it was internally
connected, then not reachable).
Pls be so kind to confirm.

Thanks for the fast answer.

Manlio


Just disconnect the field wire from the alternator.
I wouldn't say that it couldn't happen but what sort of regulator failure do
you envision that would result in overcharging the batteries?

"Manlio" wrote in message
news
there is a simple way to stop the alternator delivering current when
the regulator has a failure ?
Just not to overcharge the batteries.
According to what I know the B+ cannot be open (diode break), so as
the belt cannot be pulled away due to the water pump.

Thanks for any idea.

Manlio

Followup to msg on Mon, 28 Apr 2008 12:35:00 -0400, Matt Colie
:
(Original msg on bottom)

unit run recently usually has enough residual field magnetism to self
start anyway.

that's exactly what I was thinking about !! :-((

Anyhow , now I am over the problem ... as at port .. then I am going
to replace the regulator. But Could be interesting to find a solution
when on sea, and without apparently any solution .. without additional
problems :-))
Thanks
Manlio

Manlio,

If you are at sea and your voltage regulator dies and full current is being
sent to the field wire on the alternator you can make your own voltage
regulator by wiring a light socket into the field wire. The resistance of a
light bulb will reduce the current to the field and reduce the output of the
alternator. You can change the available current by putting different
wattage bulbs in the outlet and turn off the alternator by removing the
bulb.

Cheers

Ansley Sawyer
SV Pacem

The simple solution is to shut the engine down for a minute while you
disconnect B+. The problem with breaking the output and frying the diodes
only happens when the alternator is putting out power.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Manlio" wrote in message
...
Followup to msg on Tue, 29 Apr 2008 01:18:41 +1000, "Faire dinkum"
:
(Original msg on bottom)

The output voltage is no more regulated and current flows
continuously in order to start warming up the batteries, i.e. the
regulator doesnt switch off the charge. I suppose it has been due to
temperature failure as the solid state regulator may have similar
problem.

The alternator is a Valeo type with only the B+ Negative and D+ wires
on output. I thought the D+ was the lamp line. I suppose you mean that
D+ is the excitation line. ( I had the idea it was internally
connected, then not reachable).
Pls be so kind to confirm.

Thanks for the fast answer.

Manlio


Just disconnect the field wire from the alternator.
I wouldn't say that it couldn't happen but what sort of regulator failure
do
you envision that would result in overcharging the batteries?

"Manlio" wrote in message
news
there is a simple way to stop the alternator delivering current when
the regulator has a failure ?
Just not to overcharge the batteries.
According to what I know the B+ cannot be open (diode break), so as
the belt cannot be pulled away due to the water pump.

Thanks for any idea.

Manlio

Followup to msg on Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:20:01 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
:
(Original msg on bottom)
Hi Glenn,
your suggestion is simple and efficient.
BTW I am hardly complaining myself as I could think it by myself ....
I realize I am loosing scores ... :-))))
.... years are passing ...

Thanks to all for ideas !

Manlio


The simple solution is to shut the engine down for a minute while you
disconnect B+. The problem with breaking the output and frying the diodes
only happens when the alternator is putting out power.