Hi:

Im replacing the two 35' cables to the windlass. Id like to size them
proper but not sure how much voltage drop is alowable.

I went to the Nilsson Website and they listed several North America
service centers. Ive called 6 of them and got message machines or the
tech isnt in now.

So here is my question.

Given a 30 year old Nilsson windlass how much voltage drop can the
Lucas motor handle: 3% or can I get a way with say 6-8% drop? Or will
it just grind away fine on 10% drop????

Also, what about new units? Id like to size the cables knowing that 30
year old pice of electrical equipment will need replacing somtime in
the future and dont want to under size the cables for any future
windlass. What voltage drop is alowable for new units?

I shouldnt be raising more than 500 lbs of gound tackle.
Suggestions?
Bob

On Thu, 15 May 2008 18:17:21 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

Hi:

Im replacing the two 35' cables to the windlass. Id like to size them
proper but not sure how much voltage drop is alowable.

I went to the Nilsson Website and they listed several North America
service centers. Ive called 6 of them and got message machines or the
tech isnt in now.

So here is my question.

Given a 30 year old Nilsson windlass how much voltage drop can the
Lucas motor handle: 3% or can I get a way with say 6-8% drop? Or will
it just grind away fine on 10% drop????

Also, what about new units? Id like to size the cables knowing that 30
year old pice of electrical equipment will need replacing somtime in
the future and dont want to under size the cables for any future
windlass. What voltage drop is alowable for new units?

I shouldnt be raising more than 500 lbs of gound tackle.
Suggestions?
Bob

Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!

Questions

Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?
What is the main reason for the change?

--

Richard

Email address is valid but remove burrs before sending!

On May 15, 7:33*pm, Richard Edwards
wrote:


Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!

Yup..... should did this a few years ago.


Questions
Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?

Well, Im the kind of guy who does not trust the decessions of prior
owners.

What is the main reason for the change?
Richard

Hi Richard:
I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.

So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
Bob

Bob wrote:
On May 15, 7:33 pm, Richard Edwards
wrote:


Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!

Yup..... should did this a few years ago.


Questions
Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?

Well, Im the kind of guy who does not trust the decessions of prior
owners.

What is the main reason for the change?
Richard

Hi Richard:
I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.

So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
Bob

Guy on Ebay from Auburn wa has good prices and is super prompt. Search
on battery cable and sort thru till you find him.
Gordon

On Fri, 16 May 2008 09:52:53 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

On May 15, 7:33*pm, Richard Edwards
wrote:


Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!

Yup..... should did this a few years ago.


Questions
Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?

Well, Im the kind of guy who does not trust the decessions of prior
owners.

What is the main reason for the change?
Richard

Hi Richard:
I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.

So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
Bob
Ok replacement sounds very valid. I cannot comment on cable sizes as I
have no info on the motors discussed. However replacement with the
same size cable as current is still valid. You are replacing because
of crappy connections (which should not be there) and corrossion
damage. If everything worked well with all of these faults then new
cable of the same CSA will also work. Unless you feel that the current
setup is oversized? Given that you may NEED the windlass when your
battery is LOW go for the lowest % you can afford IMHO but no smaller
than existing.

I fully expect your next post to say "Whilst further digging along the
cable route I found more connections with a variety of different size
cables between them". I have seen it before G Welding cable is a
good option though "Calder" discusses moisture penetration IIRC. I
have never seen problems except at badly made lugs but my work is
freshwater inland. With welding cable, Hex crimped lugs and adhesive
line heatshrink the installation would see you through the rest of
your days G

--
Richard

On May 16, 11:22*am, Jack Erbes wrote:

I wonder how well the cable used for welding leads would work for that.

I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.

Thanks for the link. Very useful !
Bob

That shows a 24V, 50A system as having a drop of 1.4% with a 30 foot run
of 2/0 cable and that would be below the 2% rule of thumb mentioned there.
Jack

On May 16, 9:42*pm, Electricky Dicky
wrote:

Ok replacement sounds very valid. I cannot comment on cable sizes as I
have no info on the motors discussed. However replacement with the
same size cable as current is still valid. You are replacing because
of crappy connections (which should not be there) and corrossion
damage.

Well it all started re routing some 12 awg conductors then I saw took
a good look at the windlass cables. I guess I looked a little closer
than the surveyor did some years ago and spotted a splice and then
another splice and then......


If everything worked well with all of these faults then new
cable of the same CSA will also work.

Good logic. If workd that way okay it really be good with new.

Unless you feel that the current
setup is oversized? Given that you may NEED the windlass when your
battery is LOW go for the lowest % you can afford IMHO but no smaller
than existing.

Ya, this would be a very descission if I only know the amp load from
the windlass. Hopfully Ill hear from a tech monday.

I fully expect your next post to say "Whilst further digging along the
cable route I found more connections with a variety of different size
cables between them". I have seen it before G



Actually I DID ! I just didnt want to get too long winded over cables.


Thanks for you all your suggestions. It sure helps to have a bunch of
ideas to consider. Options are good !
Bob

On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.

Welding cables must be very flexible, so they are made of a zillion
very fine wires. This gives them a maximum surface area to corrode.
The ends of any marine cable have to be covered with waterproof
plastic, either something you paint on, or a heat shrunk sleeve.
Otherwise salt will crawl into the cable from the ends.

On Sun, 18 May 2008 11:55:09 -0400, Jack Erbes
wrote:

Richard Casady wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.

Welding cables must be very flexible, so they are made of a zillion
very fine wires. This gives them a maximum surface area to corrode.
The ends of any marine cable have to be covered with waterproof
plastic, either something you paint on, or a heat shrunk sleeve.
Otherwise salt will crawl into the cable from the ends.

And this is where I start the never ending, never to be won, argument
for tinning the ends of a wire (either tinned or bare copper) before
putting crimp on terminals on. I do that regularly and have been doing
it for years. I like that it gives you a solid object to crimp down on
and it also keep corrosion from getting started in a bundle of loose
strands.

Visualize my wiring as always being well supported and not subject to
pulling strains or the effects of vibration.

Jack
The welding cable that I use has tinned strands. One very minor but
important point is that some cables have a clear wrap between wire and
rubber. It is possible to strip the rubber leaving the "invisible"
wrap in place. Subsequent crimping gives a very questionable joint G
No, I have never done it, but "nearly" G

The point about a "zillion" strands is very valid, necessitating
adhesive lined heatshrink in a marine environment. My cables only have
half a zillion!



--

Richard

Email address is valid but remove burrs before sending!

On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

On May 16, 11:22*am, Jack Erbes wrote:

I wonder how well the cable used for welding leads would work for that.

I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.

Where can you get tinned welding cable? How much extra does tin add to
the price?

Casady