Eisboch wrote:

"John H" wrote in message
...


I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.

If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and
I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something
to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical
surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a
backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available
at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's
similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw
to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the
flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to
get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove
the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts,
then put the access plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch

Agreed. If you ever have to drill a hole that big, invest in a RotoZip
(or Dremel) with the adjustable hole cutting attachment. It's easy and
the hole is very clean. I used my RotoZip for the speakers in my CC.

BTW- cover the "foot" of the tool with masking tape to avoid any marks.

John H wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

"John H" wrote in message
...

I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.
If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch

Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

If you are looking to add some marine speakers and the hole locations
are good, you could kill two with one, as they say.

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H
wrote:

The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type
screws are used in fiberglass - for anything.

You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200.

That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with
an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever.

Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before
they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no
joke. :)

Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap!

I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:20:37 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:15:37 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
...


I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.

If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch

Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

It might be if your Key West is foam filled like my Ranger is.

Trust me - that ain't an easy job - I did it to put backing plates in
for the down riggers - it wasn't fun.

Once I take out the rod storage, that should be obvious. If it's foam
filled, I'll drop back five and punt. (bungee cords!)

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:27:54 -0500, D K wrote:

John H wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

"John H" wrote in message
...

I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.
If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch

Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

If you are looking to add some marine speakers and the hole locations
are good, you could kill two with one, as they say.

Not into loud noise on the boat. We will use a little radio once in a
while, but not often.

"John H" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:49:35 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:


wrote in message
...

Mayeb you're worrying about a problem that doesn't exist. Biminis
have been made this way for years. Practically all the ones I've seen
just have wood style screws going into the fiberglass. No bolts, no
backing plates. Can't say I've ever seen one that was torn out unless
the owner ran the bimini into something. Mine is built and installed
that way and I've had it for 13 years. I ran it into the garage door
once after forgetting to put it down and it mangled the tubes up but
did nothing to the mounts.

============================

I've seen them torn out, but it's usually during a heavy storm with high
winds and the boat owner left the boat in a slip with the Bimini up. A
couple of years ago I was on my boat in the slip during a Nor'easter. I
noticed that a large boat equipped with a Bimini (not a full enclosure)
across from me was getting the topside upper station beaten to pieces by
the
end of one of the stainless supports and mounting bracket that had been
torn
out by the wind and was being whipped around. I couldn't stand watching
it, so I put on the foul weather gear, went over with a screwdriver,
lowered
the Bimini and tied it up. My boat (and past boats) have full enclosures
and during a storm I made sure all the Isinglass windows were zippered up
closed. If one was left open the wind would try to catch the top like a
sail.

Eisboch

I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.

Bungee stretch. There purpose in life. Get some adjustable straps and
strap them to the gunnels. My back straps are that way to keep the top
tight. My top snaps to the top of the windshield so not a lot of side
movement.

"John H" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
. ..


I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.

If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical
surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out
the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access
plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch

Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I
may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

There are also blind screws. toggles.

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:46:38 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:49:35 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:


wrote in message
...

Mayeb you're worrying about a problem that doesn't exist. Biminis
have been made this way for years. Practically all the ones I've seen
just have wood style screws going into the fiberglass. No bolts, no
backing plates. Can't say I've ever seen one that was torn out unless
the owner ran the bimini into something. Mine is built and installed
that way and I've had it for 13 years. I ran it into the garage door
once after forgetting to put it down and it mangled the tubes up but
did nothing to the mounts.

============================

I've seen them torn out, but it's usually during a heavy storm with high
winds and the boat owner left the boat in a slip with the Bimini up. A
couple of years ago I was on my boat in the slip during a Nor'easter. I
noticed that a large boat equipped with a Bimini (not a full enclosure)
across from me was getting the topside upper station beaten to pieces by
the
end of one of the stainless supports and mounting bracket that had been
torn
out by the wind and was being whipped around. I couldn't stand watching
it, so I put on the foul weather gear, went over with a screwdriver,
lowered
the Bimini and tied it up. My boat (and past boats) have full enclosures
and during a storm I made sure all the Isinglass windows were zippered up
closed. If one was left open the wind would try to catch the top like a
sail.

Eisboch

I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.

Bungee stretch. There purpose in life. Get some adjustable straps and
strap them to the gunnels. My back straps are that way to keep the top
tight. My top snaps to the top of the windshield so not a lot of side
movement.


My bimini is much like this one, with brackets fore and aft, and straps in
addition.

http://www.computerpros.us/ebayimage...BiminiTop2.JPG

The only movement I get is a side to side swaying. A little swaying is OK,
as long as it doesn't stress the brackets too much. There is enough play in
the brackets that a little sway doesn't hurt.

Bungees stretch, but they will greatly reduce the amount of sway. If you
mean going from the top of the bimini to the opposite side gunwale, that's
too much interference with walking.

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:47:44 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
...


I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.

If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical
surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out
the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access
plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch

Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I
may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

There are also blind screws. toggles.


You know, I've used them in sheet rock for ages, and the thought hit me.
But, as no one had mentioned it I disregarded the idea.

Have you used them in fiberglass?

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:31:46 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H
wrote:

The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type
screws are used in fiberglass - for anything.

You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200.

That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with
an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever.

Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before
they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no
joke. :)

Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap!

I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,

A custom made high quality T-top for that boat with a bigger top than
normal would do the trick.

These guys did mine:

http://www.t-tops.com/index.htm

I've seen work done by these folks - high quality.

http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/hard.htm

Custom Hard top is about $4,500 (the one above). The base one is $2K
and I'm sure for an extra few dollars, they could make a wider, longer
top which would give you more shade.

You could also get away with a little shorter T-top on that boat which
would give you more shade.

Oh - I forgot.

Told you so. :)