Tom Francis - SWSports wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:15:37 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

"John H" wrote in message
...

I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.
If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch
Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

It might be if your Key West is foam filled like my Ranger is.

Trust me - that ain't an easy job - I did it to put backing plates in
for the down riggers - it wasn't fun.


The backing plates for my bimini top's deck hardware were factory
installed. I can run at 20-25 mph without the top moving around
significanty, or flopping in the wind, or shaking back and forth. Anyone
who thinks otherwise is welcome to show up at the dock next summer and
go for a ride.

"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in
message news

It might be if your Key West is foam filled like my Ranger is.

Trust me - that ain't an easy job - I did it to put backing plates in
for the down riggers - it wasn't fun.


Good point. I forgot about the possibility of foam filled boats.
The only problem with setting the screws with 5200 is that it does nothing
to spread the stresses over a wide surface area. It will certainly keep the
screws from coming out though.

Eisboch

"John H" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:47:44 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
m...


I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed.
But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was
thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If
that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.

If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and
I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something
to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical
surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at
marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out
the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access
plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the
access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch

Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I
may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

There are also blind screws. toggles.


You know, I've used them in sheet rock for ages, and the thought hit me.
But, as no one had mentioned it I disregarded the idea.

Have you used them in fiberglass?

They make some special ones for boats. Especially for mounting bow mount
trolling motors.

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:32:43 -0500, hk wrote:



The backing plates for my bimini top's deck hardware were factory
installed. I can run at 20-25 mph without the top moving around
significanty, or flopping in the wind, or shaking back and forth. Anyone
who thinks otherwise is welcome to show up at the dock next summer and
go for a ride.

There's guys who can tow on the highway at 65mph with their bimini up.
Not saying that's a good idea.
It's all in the design.

--Vic

Vic Smith wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:32:43 -0500, hk wrote:


The backing plates for my bimini top's deck hardware were factory
installed. I can run at 20-25 mph without the top moving around
significanty, or flopping in the wind, or shaking back and forth. Anyone
who thinks otherwise is welcome to show up at the dock next summer and
go for a ride.



There's guys who can tow on the highway at 65mph with their bimini up.
Not saying that's a good idea.
It's all in the design.

--Vic


Well, I wouldn't do that. But my bimini is very solid for what it is.
I'll have to take some photos of it next season. The only ones I have
are when it was first opened after being unwrapped, and it hadn't been
set up properly or adjusted.

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:19:58 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:31:46 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H
wrote:

The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type
screws are used in fiberglass - for anything.

You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200.

That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with
an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever.

Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before
they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no
joke. :)

Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap!

I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,

A custom made high quality T-top for that boat with a bigger top than
normal would do the trick.

These guys did mine:

http://www.t-tops.com/index.htm

I've seen work done by these folks - high quality.

http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/hard.htm

Custom Hard top is about $4,500 (the one above). The base one is $2K
and I'm sure for an extra few dollars, they could make a wider, longer
top which would give you more shade.

You could also get away with a little shorter T-top on that boat which
would give you more shade.

Oh - I forgot.

Told you so. :)

Told me *what* so?

Nope, can't afford a $4500 t-top right now. Have to wait a bit. Then we'll
see.

I'll live with the bimini.

Thanks for the ideas though.

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:04:05 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:47:44 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
om...


I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed.
But,
often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is
strong enough.

You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was
thinking
of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If
that
doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do.

If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no
good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the
stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the
underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and
I
am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something
to
keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical
surface
near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing
plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at
marine
stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to
installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out
the
proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The
removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a
surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access
plate,
install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the
access
plate back in place.

They look like this:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg

Eisboch

Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I
may
have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do.

There are also blind screws. toggles.


You know, I've used them in sheet rock for ages, and the thought hit me.
But, as no one had mentioned it I disregarded the idea.

Have you used them in fiberglass?

They make some special ones for boats. Especially for mounting bow mount
trolling motors.


I'll look. Thanks. With all these ideas, the job should be pretty easy.

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:22:03 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:32:43 -0500, hk wrote:



The backing plates for my bimini top's deck hardware were factory
installed. I can run at 20-25 mph without the top moving around
significanty, or flopping in the wind, or shaking back and forth. Anyone
who thinks otherwise is welcome to show up at the dock next summer and
go for a ride.

There's guys who can tow on the highway at 65mph with their bimini up.
Not saying that's a good idea.
It's all in the design.

--Vic

As long as there isn't side to side action, the Key West bimini will take a
lot of speed. It's side to side motion that causes the bimini to sway. The
front straps would be getting most of the stress while going down the
highway, or on plane in the water.

John H wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H
wrote:

The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type
screws are used in fiberglass - for anything.
You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200.

That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with
an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever.

Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before
they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no
joke. :)

Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap!

I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,

Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year.

On Wed, 07 Jan 2009 01:28:20 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:22:36 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote:


I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top.
I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun,

Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year.

You need a redneck T top

http://gfretwell.com/electrical/the_butt_ugly.jpg

LOL!!

Although, that's not a bad idea on an old pontoon - it's not like it's
going to cost a ton of money.