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#81
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On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 22:37:35 -0500, John H
wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:19:58 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:31:46 -0500, John H wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H wrote: The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200. That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever. Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no joke. :) Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap! I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, A custom made high quality T-top for that boat with a bigger top than normal would do the trick. These guys did mine: http://www.t-tops.com/index.htm I've seen work done by these folks - high quality. http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/hard.htm Custom Hard top is about $4,500 (the one above). The base one is $2K and I'm sure for an extra few dollars, they could make a wider, longer top which would give you more shade. You could also get away with a little shorter T-top on that boat which would give you more shade. Oh - I forgot. Told you so. :) Told me *what* so? Nope, can't afford a $4500 t-top right now. Have to wait a bit. Then we'll see. I'll live with the bimini. Thanks for the ideas though. Well, you don't have to drop that kind of money on the T-top - their standard unit is very affordable and based on the size of your console, you could probably get them to add some lenth and width to the top for more shade. |
#82
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() wrote in message news ![]() On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:22:36 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq." wrote: I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year. ![]() You need a redneck T top http://gfretwell.com/electrical/the_butt_ugly.jpg Funny...a few of the gang with sailboats like my old Sandpiper 565, found that type of umbrella and use them to cover the cockpit when at anchor. I preferred this version... http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...shade1443a.jpg |
#83
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posted to rec.boats
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On Wed, 07 Jan 2009 01:28:20 -0500, wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:22:36 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq." wrote: I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year. ![]() You need a redneck T top http://gfretwell.com/electrical/the_butt_ugly.jpg LOL! That's good. |
#84
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posted to rec.boats
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On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:22:36 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: John H wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H wrote: The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200. That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever. Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no joke. :) Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap! I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year. ![]() Well, my wife didn't think much of it last year either! |
#85
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posted to rec.boats
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On Wed, 07 Jan 2009 05:55:48 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 22:37:35 -0500, John H wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:19:58 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:31:46 -0500, John H wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H wrote: The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200. That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever. Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no joke. :) Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap! I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, A custom made high quality T-top for that boat with a bigger top than normal would do the trick. These guys did mine: http://www.t-tops.com/index.htm I've seen work done by these folks - high quality. http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/hard.htm Custom Hard top is about $4,500 (the one above). The base one is $2K and I'm sure for an extra few dollars, they could make a wider, longer top which would give you more shade. You could also get away with a little shorter T-top on that boat which would give you more shade. Oh - I forgot. Told you so. :) Told me *what* so? Nope, can't afford a $4500 t-top right now. Have to wait a bit. Then we'll see. I'll live with the bimini. Thanks for the ideas though. Well, you don't have to drop that kind of money on the T-top - their standard unit is very affordable and based on the size of your console, you could probably get them to add some lenth and width to the top for more shade. Oh, I'll live with the bimini. The ideas from all you guys will make the thing much less troublesome, much of which may have been in my mind anyway. |
#86
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posted to rec.boats
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John H wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:47:44 -0800, "Calif Bill" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. There are also blind screws. toggles. You know, I've used them in sheet rock for ages, and the thought hit me. But, as no one had mentioned it I disregarded the idea. Have you used them in fiberglass? The hole would have to be rather large - weakening the fiberglass even more. |
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