Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#11
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Jim24242" wrote in message ... There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. The only problem with that .... John ... pay attention..... is that if the RV site's wiring or power is lacking, it will not show a voltage droop with any load. In other words, the voltage may read 120vac under no load, but after he plugs in and fires up the AC it might droop. He can find out by measuring the voltage before he hooks up and then again with the AC running at any 120vac outlet in his camper, assuming it is not powered by a converter. Usually the microwave and the AC are not run through the converter, so either of the power sources inside the camper could be checked. The voltage at the remote power setup I had in Florida used to droop to 105vac on some days. Bad for the AC compressor. That's why I bought the buck/boost transformer. Eisboch |
#12
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Eisboch wrote:
"John H" wrote in message ... Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA, where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? -- John H Other than a multimeter, I don't recall a specific "tester" for RV service outlets. A multimeter will allow you to check for proper voltage and polarity. BTW, you should have included Harry in your request for info. Then you would have addressed every "Tom, Dick and Harry" ... Oh well. Early in the morning, I guess. Eisboch rec.traveltrailers... again. Can photos of the clonechildren be far behind? |
#13
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:23:37 -0400, Jim24242 wrote: Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. You can stick any meter probe in any recepticle, so what is the problem. You should have a digital multimeter in any case. Casady There are those among us that are not handy with tools. Think convenience. You can plug in any of number of testers designed to do the needed testing. Or hold the meter in one hand, the first probe in one hand, the 2nd probe in another hand and, hey wait a minute, you need 3 hands. |
#14
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 07:09:51 -0400, John H
wrote: Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA, where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? The issue with your circuit breaker popping was almost certainly caused by low voltage due to inadequate wiring at the RV park or possibly an overloaded utility transformer. Either way there isn't much you can do about it other than to better understand the problem. About the best you can do is persuade the RV park to move you to another site and hope that the wiring there will be better. An inexpensive digital voltmeter(DVM) is all you need. It is possible to buy adjustable step up transformers but they are heavy, bulky and expensive. http://variac.com/staco_3PN10_20.htm We run into this issue at marinas fairly frequently and sometimes have no choice other than running the generator all night. Here in the Bahamas the quality and reliability of shorepower varies a great deal from island to island, some being little better than third world countries in that respect. |
#15
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "John H" wrote in message ... Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA, where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? -- John H You may find this gadget handy: http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/travelpower/7657/ |
#16
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
D.Duck wrote:
"John H" wrote in message ... Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA, where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? -- John H You may find this gadget handy: http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/travelpower/7657/ Even handier, a motel room with air conditioning, and a bathroom with a clean toilet, sink and shower. |
#17
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Eisboch wrote:
"Jim24242" wrote in message ... There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. The only problem with that .... John ... pay attention..... is that if the RV site's wiring or power is lacking, it will not show a voltage droop with any load. In other words, the voltage may read 120vac under no load, but after he plugs in and fires up the AC it might droop. He can find out by measuring the voltage before he hooks up and then again with the AC running at any 120vac outlet in his camper, assuming it is not powered by a converter. Usually the microwave and the AC are not run through the converter, so either of the power sources inside the camper could be checked. The voltage at the remote power setup I had in Florida used to droop to 105vac on some days. Bad for the AC compressor. That's why I bought the buck/boost transformer. Eisboch There's a difference between "Droop" or sag and voltage drop under load. The sag can be detected without hooking up a load. |
#18
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
D.Duck wrote:
"John H" wrote in message ... Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA, where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker. This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time. We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods. Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it was, please? -- John H You may find this gadget handy: http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/travelpower/7657/ I have one of those. They are pretty cool. Two things though. I don't know if they can detect reversed or open legs or test ground fault protectors and if he were to adapt it to monitor amps it is limited to 15A. |
#19
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 09:51:00 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote: "Jim24242" wrote in message ... There is a plug in tester at camping world that seems to offer all the informatiom you need. Voltage Frequency Amps and polarity. It didn't say how many amps though. One thing though. Ant testing you do should be at the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A receptacle. The only problem with that .... John ... pay attention..... is that if the RV site's wiring or power is lacking, it will not show a voltage droop with any load. In other words, the voltage may read 120vac under no load, but after he plugs in and fires up the AC it might droop. He can find out by measuring the voltage before he hooks up and then again with the AC running at any 120vac outlet in his camper, assuming it is not powered by a converter. Usually the microwave and the AC are not run through the converter, so either of the power sources inside the camper could be checked. The voltage at the remote power setup I had in Florida used to droop to 105vac on some days. Bad for the AC compressor. That's why I bought the buck/boost transformer. That's a good point - didn't think of that. It's all about the load baby. If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops at another 120 Vac receptacle right? |
#20
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message ... That's a good point - didn't think of that. It's all about the load baby. If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops at another 120 Vac receptacle right? Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the microwave are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not run through the converter. Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that case, yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load. Eisboch |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Travel Trailer AND Boat | General | |||
How far do you trailer / travel with your boat? | General | |||
FOR SALE: 1999 Mallard 37 foot Travel Trailer | General | |||
FS: Boat Air Conditioner in NY | Marketplace | |||
FS: Cruisair Air conditioner in NY | Marketplace |