"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?


Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the
microwave are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not
run through the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that
case, yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

Eisboch

Correction .... "inverter" .... not "converter". The inverter produces
120vac from 12 vdc.
The converter produces 12vdc from 120vac.

Eisboch

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:08:32 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:


"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
.. .

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?

Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the microwave
are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not run through
the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that case,
yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

So in John's case, to be absolutely sure, he'd have to place a metered
load at the source point to determine any voltage drop.

Hmmmmm....

Wizard of Woodstock wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:08:32 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:

"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...
That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?
Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the microwave
are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not run through
the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that case,
yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

So in John's case, to be absolutely sure, he'd have to place a metered
load at the source point to determine any voltage drop.

Hmmmmm....


snerk

If you want reliable power at a trailer camp, you need to carry your
power with you.

As in

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/p...lid=EU3000ISAN

"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:08:32 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:


"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
. ..

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?

Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the
microwave
are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not run through
the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that
case,
yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

So in John's case, to be absolutely sure, he'd have to place a metered
load at the source point to determine any voltage drop.

Hmmmmm....

Sort of. Usually the RV site pedestal has a standard 20 amp outlet. As
long as it's on the same side of the split phase service, he can measure it
there. Again, if his camper is not set up so the 120v outlets do not run
off the inverter, he can use any of them to measure it.

I went through this in Florida with a camper we had. I knew the AC was
straining to start due to voltage droop just by listening to it. The
section of Florida we were in was not noted for decent electrical service to
begin with. During peak hours the voltage at the distribution box in our
house would occasionally drop to 114 volts or so. I put in a 30 amp, 120v
service for the camper, located about 200 feet away. Even though I used 6
awg wires for the hot and neutral, I'd still get as low as 105 volts at
times at the camper location when the AC unit tried to kick on. The extra
current draw is not healthy for the compressor motor windings. I ended up
buying an automatic boost transformer that kicked the voltage up by 10%
whenever it sensed that the supply voltage dropped below 117 vac.


Eisboch

"HK" wrote in message
m...

If you want reliable power at a trailer camp, you need to carry your power
with you.

As in

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/p...lid=EU3000ISAN


Nice guy. Your camp neighbors will love you for it.
But, then again, it's not about *them*, now is it?

Eisboch

Eisboch wrote:

"HK" wrote in message
m...

If you want reliable power at a trailer camp, you need to carry your
power with you.

As in

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/p...lid=EU3000ISAN



Nice guy. Your camp neighbors will love you for it.
But, then again, it's not about *them*, now is it?

Eisboch


49 to 58dB(A). Far less than the din created by the squabbling kids,
over-beered drunks, and the thumpa-thumpa stereos.

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:31:38 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:


"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:08:32 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:


"Wizard of Woodstock" wrote in message
...

That's a good point - didn't think of that.

It's all about the load baby.

If you turn the AC on, you should be able to tell if the voltage drops
at another 120 Vac receptacle right?

Generally, yes but some campers are set up such that some of the 120 vac
outlets are powered by the converter and it's regulation may take care of
droop. However, the high current draw items like the AC and the
microwave
are wired directly to the "shore" power 120v source and do not run through
the converter.

Some campers get all the 120vac from the shore power source. In that
case,
yes, any outlet will do to check camper voltage under load.

So in John's case, to be absolutely sure, he'd have to place a metered
load at the source point to determine any voltage drop.

Hmmmmm....

Sort of. Usually the RV site pedestal has a standard 20 amp outlet. As
long as it's on the same side of the split phase service, he can measure it
there. Again, if his camper is not set up so the 120v outlets do not run
off the inverter, he can use any of them to measure it.

I went through this in Florida with a camper we had. I knew the AC was
straining to start due to voltage droop just by listening to it. The
section of Florida we were in was not noted for decent electrical service to
begin with. During peak hours the voltage at the distribution box in our
house would occasionally drop to 114 volts or so. I put in a 30 amp, 120v
service for the camper, located about 200 feet away. Even though I used 6
awg wires for the hot and neutral, I'd still get as low as 105 volts at
times at the camper location when the AC unit tried to kick on. The extra
current draw is not healthy for the compressor motor windings. I ended up
buying an automatic boost transformer that kicked the voltage up by 10%
whenever it sensed that the supply voltage dropped below 117 vac.

Even better. You're safe no matter what happens that way.

HK wrote:
Eisboch wrote:
"John H" wrote in message
...
Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA,
where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in
that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit
breaker.

This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the
circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time.

We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to
stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods.

Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of
you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I
didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it
was, please?
--

John H

Other than a multimeter, I don't recall a specific "tester" for RV
service outlets.
A multimeter will allow you to check for proper voltage and polarity.

BTW, you should have included Harry in your request for info.
Then you would have addressed every "Tom, Dick and Harry" ...

Oh well. Early in the morning, I guess.

Eisboch


rec.traveltrailers... again. Can photos of the clonechildren be far behind?

Too heck with photos of grandkids, I want to see a photo of someone
paving the street in front of your house. Heck, you can even tell
people it is your driveway. Or, for some real excitement, we can get an
hourly update of your UPS shipment or a photo of your basement kitchen
cabinets still in the box. WOW, it makes my heart jump just to think
about all the excitement of your posts. After all, isn't that what
rec.boats is all about, boasting Harry Krause's low self esteem?

--
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.

This Newsgroup post is a natural product. The slight variations in
spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in
no way are to be considered flaws or defects

On Jun 22, 12:26*pm, "Reginald P Smithers III, Esq."
wrote:
HK wrote:
Eisboch wrote:
"John H" wrote in message
. ..
Had our little rig out this past weekend, down to Williamsburg, VA,
where the temp climbed into the 90s on Saturday. Last time we were in
that kind of heat the air conditioner kept popping the circuit
breaker.

This time the AC worked well. Don't know if the problem was the
circuit breaker or not, but at least we kept cool this time.

We stayed at the American Heritage RV park, which is a nice place to
stay if you're ever in that neck of the woods.

Tom or Dick, if either of you happen to read this, last year one of
you suggested an instrument for testing the current at camp sites. I
didn't get it then, but want it now. Could you remind me again what it
was, please?
--

John H

Other than a multimeter, I don't recall a specific "tester" for RV
service outlets.
A multimeter will allow you to check for proper voltage and polarity.

BTW, you should have included Harry in your request for info.
Then you would have addressed every "Tom, Dick and Harry" ...

Oh well. Early in the morning, I guess.

Eisboch

rec.traveltrailers... again. Can photos of the clonechildren be far behind?

Too heck with photos of grandkids, I want to see a photo of someone
paving the street in front of your house. * Heck, you can even tell
people it is your driveway. *Or, for some real excitement, we can get an
hourly update of your UPS shipment or a photo of your basement kitchen
cabinets still in the box. * WOW, it makes my heart jump just to think
about all the excitement of your posts. * After all, isn't that what
rec.boats is all about, boasting Harry Krause's low self esteem?

--
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.

This Newsgroup post is a natural product. The slight variations in
spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in
no way are to be considered flaws or defects- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's a shame that Harry thinks so little of his children.

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 10:09:44 -0400, Jim24242
wrote:

Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:23:37 -0400, Jim24242
wrote:

Ant testing you do should be at
the power pedestal BEFORE you hook your camper to it. That means you
need to use an adapter to convert from a 30A receptacle to a 15A
receptacle.

You can stick any meter probe in any recepticle, so what is the
problem. You should have a digital multimeter in any case.

Casady

There are those among us that are not handy with tools.
Think convenience. You can plug in any of number of testers designed to
do the needed testing. Or hold the meter in one hand, the first probe in
one hand, the 2nd probe in another hand and, hey wait a minute, you need
3 hands.

Two probes in one hand. Ever hear of chopsticks? A billion people can
handle those ****ers. It takes two dice, but only one hand,
to shoot craps. When I started sailboat races I had to manipulate,
simultaniously, a stopwatch, a shotgun, and two flags.

Casady