I have a 2000 four winns 230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 12:33:59 -0700 (PDT), J wrote:

I have a 2000 four winns 230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Have you tried a new thermostat?

On Jun 3, 2:33*pm, J wrote:
I have a 2000 four winns 230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Justin, not sure what engine or outdrive you have, but ....

if the engine has overheated then there is a possability that you may
have compromised a head gasket. It may seem to run fine but still ....


There are a lot of things to consider. Does the engine start easy or
does it crank and "hit hard" on comression? if so that could be that
the engine distributor is out of time, but that would be doubteful.

This isnt' an indacator, without running a compression test, but did
you find any water in the oil? and if you have the main engine water
pump off or a main radiator hose pulled loose, does it smell like
engine exhaust inside the block or hoses? Those can be some indicators
as well.


If you run a compression test on the engine, and you find abnormally
low compression on a cylinder or two (especialy on the same bank, that
is if it is a v-6 or 8) I'd be suspect of a faulty headgasket.


I take it your engine is fresh water cooled only and the water doesn't
run though a heat exchanger?

On Jun 3, 3:33*pm, J wrote:
I have a 2000 four winns 230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Check the thermostat. It's easy to do at home. Hang it in a pot with
some water on the stove and a cooking thermometer. Add heat. Watch
the themometer and the thermostat. You'll see it open around 147 or
160 depending on which on it is.

Another spot to check is the exhaust manifolds and risers. Those
commonly scale up until they are clogged. The risers are the worst.
You can usually tell by probing in the hose connections. Or just try
to blow through them.

On Jun 4, 12:15*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jun 3, 3:33*pm, J wrote:

I have a2000fourwinns230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Check the thermostat. *It's easy to do at home. *Hang it in a pot with
some water on the stove and a cooking thermometer. *Add heat. *Watch
the themometer and the thermostat. *You'll see it open around 147 or
160 depending on which on it is.

Another spot to check is the exhaust manifolds and risers. *Those
commonly scale up until they are clogged. *The risers are the worst.
You can usually tell by probing in the hose connections. *Or just try
to blow through them.

I took the thermostat out of the boat and it still overheats with no
thermostat in the engine. I was wondering if the thermostat is
required to divert the water to the correct places, or should it run
cool with the thermostat out?
Justin

On Jun 5, 11:52*am, J wrote:
On Jun 4, 12:15*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:



On Jun 3, 3:33*pm, J wrote:

I have a2000fourwinns230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Check the thermostat. *It's easy to do at home. *Hang it in a pot with
some water on the stove and a cooking thermometer. *Add heat. *Watch
the themometer and the thermostat. *You'll see it open around 147 or
160 depending on which on it is.

Another spot to check is the exhaust manifolds and risers. *Those
commonly scale up until they are clogged. *The risers are the worst.
You can usually tell by probing in the hose connections. *Or just try
to blow through them.

I took the thermostat out of the boat and it still overheats with no
thermostat in the engine. I was wondering if the thermostat is
required to divert the water to the correct places, or should it run
cool with the thermostat out?
Justin

being fresh water cooled and with no thermostat, I'd think it wouldn't
get over 1oo degrees.

My fresh water cooled 3.0 GM runs at approx 135.f.

On Jun 5, 12:52*pm, J wrote:
On Jun 4, 12:15*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Jun 3, 3:33*pm, J wrote:

I have a2000fourwinns230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Check the thermostat. *It's easy to do at home. *Hang it in a pot with
some water on the stove and a cooking thermometer. *Add heat. *Watch
the themometer and the thermostat. *You'll see it open around 147 or
160 depending on which on it is.

Another spot to check is the exhaust manifolds and risers. *Those
commonly scale up until they are clogged. *The risers are the worst.
You can usually tell by probing in the hose connections. *Or just try
to blow through them.

I took the thermostat out of the boat and it still overheats with no
thermostat in the engine. I was wondering if the thermostat is
required to divert the water to the correct places, or should it run
cool with the thermostat out?
Justin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The thermostat is required. Most of the housings use pressure
differential to get the water to go through the engine or to skip the
engine and go straight to the manifolds. Either check the thermostat
like I described or get a new one. You didn't tell us, what engine
manufacturer do you have? Do you use the boat in salt water or
fresh? Is the cooling system raw (no heat exchanger) or closed (has a
heat exchanger)?

I'd still check the manifolds and risers for clogging. They are the
most commen thing to clog up.

Do you have muffs so you can run it in the driveway? Does plenty of
water come out with the exhaust when you run it in the driveway?

On Jun 7, 5:17*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jun 5, 12:52*pm, J wrote:





On Jun 4, 12:15*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Jun 3, 3:33*pm, J wrote:

I have a2000fourwinns230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Check the thermostat. *It's easy to do at home. *Hang it in a pot with
some water on the stove and a cooking thermometer. *Add heat. *Watch
the themometer and the thermostat. *You'll see it open around 147 or
160 depending on which on it is.

Another spot to check is the exhaust manifolds and risers. *Those
commonly scale up until they are clogged. *The risers are the worst..
You can usually tell by probing in the hose connections. *Or just try
to blow through them.

I took the thermostat out of the boat and it still overheats with no
thermostat in the engine. I was wondering if the thermostat is
required to divert the water to the correct places, or should it run
cool with the thermostat out?
Justin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The thermostat is required. *Most of the housings use pressure
differential to get the water to go through the engine or to skip the
engine and go straight to the manifolds. *Either check the thermostat
like I described or get a new one. *You didn't tell us, what engine
manufacturer do you have? *Do you use the boat in salt water or
fresh? *Is the cooling system raw (no heat exchanger) or closed (has a
heat exchanger)?

I'd still check the manifolds and risers for clogging. *They are the
most commen thing to clog up.

Do you have muffs so you can run it in the driveway? *Does plenty of
water come out with the exhaust when you run it in the driveway?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The engine is a volvo penta 5.7 GSI. I believe this is a chevy engine.
I can run the engine in the driveway and water comes out the buttom of
the prop area and some comes out with the exhaust. I explained this to
a four winns mechanic and he says it does that so the water has a way
to get out if the boat is backing up. IT can either come out with the
exhaust or from the buttom of the outdrive, the path of least
resistance. I believe the risers are the pieces that come off the top
of the manifolds, and in that case we did take those off and there was
minimal surface rust in the risers. Then we taped off the hole for the
exhaust and ran water through the engine with a hose and water flowed
freely out the exhaust, as if it were going up to the risers. so the
manifolds and risers seemed to flow freely. The boat is not used in
salt water, I purchased the boat 3 years ago and never used it in salt
water, and I dont believe the previous owner used it in salt water. I
do not see a heat exchanger, the water gets pulled into the boat
circulated insidfe the block then spit out. I will have to put a new
thermostat in and try it again becuase I was using it the last 2 times
without a thermostat, but my knowledge of engines tells me there needs
to be something in the thermostats place to force the fresh water
through the engine. So I will get a new thermostat in and try that.
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Justin

On Jun 9, 1:54*am, J wrote:
On Jun 7, 5:17*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Jun 5, 12:52*pm, J wrote:

On Jun 4, 12:15*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Jun 3, 3:33*pm, J wrote:

I have a2000fourwinns230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Check the thermostat. *It's easy to do at home. *Hang it in a pot with
some water on the stove and a cooking thermometer. *Add heat. *Watch
the themometer and the thermostat. *You'll see it open around 147 or
160 depending on which on it is.

Another spot to check is the exhaust manifolds and risers. *Those
commonly scale up until they are clogged. *The risers are the worst.
You can usually tell by probing in the hose connections. *Or just try
to blow through them.

I took the thermostat out of the boat and it still overheats with no
thermostat in the engine. I was wondering if the thermostat is
required to divert the water to the correct places, or should it run
cool with the thermostat out?
Justin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The thermostat is required. *Most of the housings use pressure
differential to get the water to go through the engine or to skip the
engine and go straight to the manifolds. *Either check the thermostat
like I described or get a new one. *You didn't tell us, what engine
manufacturer do you have? *Do you use the boat in salt water or
fresh? *Is the cooling system raw (no heat exchanger) or closed (has a
heat exchanger)?

I'd still check the manifolds and risers for clogging. *They are the
most commen thing to clog up.

Do you have muffs so you can run it in the driveway? *Does plenty of
water come out with the exhaust when you run it in the driveway?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The engine is a volvo penta 5.7 GSI. I believe this is a chevy engine.
I can run the engine in the driveway and water comes out the buttom of
the prop area and some comes out with the exhaust. I explained this to
a four winns mechanic and he says it does that so the water has a way
to get out if the boat is backing up. IT can either come out with the
exhaust or from the buttom of the outdrive, the path of least
resistance. I believe the risers are the pieces that come off the top
of the manifolds, and in that case we did take those off and there was
minimal surface rust in the risers. Then we taped off the hole for the
exhaust and ran water through the engine with a hose and water flowed
freely out the exhaust, as if it were going up to the risers. so the
manifolds and risers seemed to flow freely. The boat is not used in
salt water, I purchased the boat 3 years ago and never used it in salt
water, and I dont believe the previous owner used it in salt water. I
do not see a heat exchanger, the water gets pulled into the boat
circulated insidfe the block then spit out. I will have to put a new
thermostat in and try it again becuase I was using it the last 2 times
without a thermostat, but my knowledge of engines tells me there needs
to be something in the thermostats place to force the fresh water
through the engine. So I will get a new thermostat in and try that.
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Justin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are correct, that is a chevy small block. In auto land they call
them 350's. And I would agree that in fresh water the exhaust system
should still be ok at that age. Sounds like you have checked
everything. When you ran it without a thermostat did it still run
hot? I'd suggest you replace it with a 147 deg one. That might be
what it had or it may have had a 160. It's shaping up to be a real
puzzler. I hope the thermostat solves the problem. I would not
expect a blown head gasket but if its still overheating a compression
check wouldn't hurt but I would think you'd notice running problems.

On Jun 9, 7:26*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jun 9, 1:54*am, J wrote:





On Jun 7, 5:17*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Jun 5, 12:52*pm, J wrote:

On Jun 4, 12:15*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Jun 3, 3:33*pm, J wrote:

I have a2000fourwinns230 hrizon, and i am having an issue with it
over heating. I hooked it up to a manual temp gauge and it is running
around 230. I have checked everything i can think to check. we pulled
the impeller off the fresh water pump that pulls the lake water into
the engine and this rubber gear is in perfect shape. We pulled the
pump off the front of the engine and everything appears to be ok
there. We pulled off each individual cooling hose and checked for
blockage and there was nothing to be seen. Can someone please give me
some suggestions as to where I can look next to fix this over heating
problem. I even ran water backwartds out of the outdrive to check for
blockage and there appeared to be none.
THanks in advance
Justin

Check the thermostat. *It's easy to do at home. *Hang it in a pot with
some water on the stove and a cooking thermometer. *Add heat. *Watch
the themometer and the thermostat. *You'll see it open around 147 or
160 depending on which on it is.

Another spot to check is the exhaust manifolds and risers. *Those
commonly scale up until they are clogged. *The risers are the worst.
You can usually tell by probing in the hose connections. *Or just try
to blow through them.

I took the thermostat out of the boat and it still overheats with no
thermostat in the engine. I was wondering if the thermostat is
required to divert the water to the correct places, or should it run
cool with the thermostat out?
Justin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The thermostat is required. *Most of the housings use pressure
differential to get the water to go through the engine or to skip the
engine and go straight to the manifolds. *Either check the thermostat
like I described or get a new one. *You didn't tell us, what engine
manufacturer do you have? *Do you use the boat in salt water or
fresh? *Is the cooling system raw (no heat exchanger) or closed (has a
heat exchanger)?

I'd still check the manifolds and risers for clogging. *They are the
most commen thing to clog up.

Do you have muffs so you can run it in the driveway? *Does plenty of
water come out with the exhaust when you run it in the driveway?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The engine is a volvo penta 5.7 GSI. I believe this is a chevy engine.
I can run the engine in the driveway and water comes out the buttom of
the prop area and some comes out with the exhaust. I explained this to
a four winns mechanic and he says it does that so the water has a way
to get out if the boat is backing up. IT can either come out with the
exhaust or from the buttom of the outdrive, the path of least
resistance. I believe the risers are the pieces that come off the top
of the manifolds, and in that case we did take those off and there was
minimal surface rust in the risers. Then we taped off the hole for the
exhaust and ran water through the engine with a hose and water flowed
freely out the exhaust, as if it were going up to the risers. so the
manifolds and risers seemed to flow freely. The boat is not used in
salt water, I purchased the boat 3 years ago and never used it in salt
water, and I dont believe the previous owner used it in salt water. I
do not see a heat exchanger, the water gets pulled into the boat
circulated insidfe the block then spit out. I will have to put a new
thermostat in and try it again becuase I was using it the last 2 times
without a thermostat, but my knowledge of engines tells me there needs
to be something in the thermostats place to force the fresh water
through the engine. So I will get a new thermostat in and try that.
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Justin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are correct, that is a chevy small block. *In auto land they call
them 350's. *And I would agree that in fresh water the exhaust system
should still be ok at that age. *Sounds like you have checked
everything. *When you ran it without a thermostat did it still run
hot? *I'd suggest you replace it with a 147 deg one. *That might be
what it had or it may have had a 160. *It's shaping up to be a real
puzzler. *I hope the thermostat solves the problem. *I would not
expect a blown head gasket but if its still overheating a compression
check wouldn't hurt but I would think you'd notice running problems.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Another thing to add. Is the alternator belt tight enough so the
engine water pump can spin efficiently? That was one problem that I
had found out with my 3.0 when I suspected that the engine had a bad
head gasket (which it did) The alternator belt was about as thin as a
shoe string and I could easily turn the engine pump by hand. After I
had the head re-done I replaced the alternator/waterpump belt and the
alternators pulley due to it was the wrong pulley and was worn badly.
I tigehtned the belt and the waterpump was secure. I don't know abotu
the 350's but as stated before, my 3.0 runs at approx 135 degrees
temperature.