On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 09:55:52 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:

On Jul 15, 11:28*am, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

Or
should I jsut bite it and buy a new manifold?

Yes, and check/replace the risers also. *If either one fails you can
hydro lock the engine with disasterous results. *In salt water they
have a typical life expectancy of 4 or 5 years.

Yes, and these are origionals from 1977. When I do the manifold work,
I'll at least take them to the boat shop and at least have them tested
and evaluated.

I put new manifolds and risers on the Proline engine when it was about 9 years
old. One of the manifolds had clogged from the loose rust scaling off the
inside. And, I took great pains to flush mine every time I took it out.

It's a pain in the butt, and they cost a little, but I'd replace them if they're
over thirty years old.
--

John H

On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 11:55:41 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:

On Jul 15, 12:47*pm, W1TEF wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

buy a new manifold?

Buy the manifold you cheapskate. *:)

Eh, not that cheap Tom. But was weighing out the hassle of the change
out. But it is best to be safe. Like I mentioned, for local running it
wouldn't be a big bother, but doing a 150-200 mile river run (one way)
That's different.

Buy it shall be.

When I did mine, I rigged some twine so I could take the weight of the manifold
around my neck. This left hands free to get it centered, get nuts started, etc.
If you have two people, it wouldn't be such a pain to replace them.

Oh, be ready to buy new bolts and nuts also.
--

John H

On 7/15/10 2:55 PM, Tim wrote:
On Jul 15, 12:47 pm, wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

buy a new manifold?

Buy the manifold you cheapskate. :)

Eh, not that cheap Tom. But was weighing out the hassle of the change
out. But it is best to be safe. Like I mentioned, for local running it
wouldn't be a big bother, but doing a 150-200 mile river run (one way)
That's different.

Buy it shall be.

Buy a boat that isn't disintegrating. Tom has a couple of boats he
doesn't use.

On Jul 15, 3:03*pm, John H wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 09:55:52 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
On Jul 15, 11:28*am, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

Or
should I jsut bite it and buy a new manifold?

Yes, and check/replace the risers also. *If either one fails you can
hydro lock the engine with disasterous results. *In salt water they
have a typical life expectancy of 4 or 5 years.

Yes, and these are origionals from 1977. When I do the manifold work,
I'll at least take them to the boat shop and at least have them tested
and evaluated.

I put new manifolds and risers on the Proline engine when it was about 9 years
old. One of the manifolds had clogged from the loose rust scaling off the
inside. And, I took great pains to flush mine every time I took it out.

It's a pain in the butt, and they cost a little, but I'd replace them if they're
over thirty years old.
--

John H

Now would be a good time to start soaking it where the bolts enter the
head with wd40 or whatever similar product you like. If it seems like
a manifold bolt is going to break I'd cut the bolt head off first so I
could pull the manifold off and get at where the bolt enters the head
and still have some protruding bolt shaft to work with.

On Jul 15, 2:02*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 15, 2:55*pm, Tim wrote:

On Jul 15, 12:47*pm, W1TEF wrote:

On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

buy a new manifold?

Buy the manifold you cheapskate. *:)

Eh, not that cheap Tom. But was weighing out the hassle of the change
out. But it is best to be safe. Like I mentioned, for local running it
wouldn't be a big bother, but doing a 150-200 mile river run (one way)
That's different.

Buy it shall be.

I agree, they are way past their life expectancy. *There are a number
of economical after market replacements. *Do both the manifolds and
risers. * Are they log style or center riser?

I take it they are the log type. This would be the best description:

http://www.iboats.com/mall/image/view/2/7/615_2.jpg

On Jul 15, 2:03*pm, John H wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 09:55:52 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
On Jul 15, 11:28*am, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

Or
should I jsut bite it and buy a new manifold?

Yes, and check/replace the risers also. *If either one fails you can
hydro lock the engine with disasterous results. *In salt water they
have a typical life expectancy of 4 or 5 years.

Yes, and these are origionals from 1977. When I do the manifold work,
I'll at least take them to the boat shop and at least have them tested
and evaluated.

I put new manifolds and risers on the Proline engine when it was about 9 years
old. One of the manifolds had clogged from the loose rust scaling off the
inside. And, I took great pains to flush mine every time I took it out.

It's a pain in the butt, and they cost a little, but I'd replace them if they're
over thirty years old.
--

John H

I'm deffinately leaning in that direction, John.

On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 15:18:14 -0400, John H
wrote:

When I did mine, I rigged some twine so I could take the weight of the manifold
around my neck. This left hands free to get it centered, get nuts started, etc.

There's a better way. Buy two threaded studs or create your own by
cutting off the heads of a couple of bolts. Screw them into the
block temporarily so you can hang the new manifold on them while you
start the remaining bolts.

On Jul 15, 2:55*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 15, 12:47*pm, W1TEF wrote:

On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

buy a new manifold?

Buy the manifold you cheapskate. *:)

Eh, not that cheap Tom. But was weighing out the hassle of the change
out. But it is best to be safe. Like I mentioned, for local running it
wouldn't be a big bother, but doing a 150-200 mile river run (one way)
That's different.

Buy it shall be.


Go he

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

Kroil is the real deal... if this doesn't free the bolts up, nothing
you'll spray from a can will.

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Jul 15, 10:26 am, "Harold" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...
On Jul 15, 9:11 am, "Harold" wrote:





"Tim" wrote in message

...

OK, so while I have the boat out in the sunlight and have the back
panel off to look for anything that myight need repairs, I noticed
that the previous owner muust have left water in the left exhaust
manifold and it froze and cracked. They have generous globs of JB Weld
over them and it held well, However I noticed that there is a bottom
crack where it seems the JB weld has cracked loose and I can see a bit
of rust.

Due to aftermarke, the price of a lot of these items has really come
down to being reasonable. I probably ought to change out the manifold
but it's a real bugger to take of where it sits. So, I'm going to chip
away at the repair to see how sound it is.

this isn't a presurized system so there's not any steam build up. And
the repair looks like it's held for quite a while, but is starting to
fail.

Does anyone know of a better smear on product to seal the crack? Or
should I jsut bite it and buy a new manifold?

BITE!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Running around a lake where you don't
have far to go to shore is one thing, being out on the Ohio River is
totally another.

Bit still. It wouldn't hurt to have a tube of 'something' on board to
try to make a quick fix if necessary.

It wouldn't hurt to carry some JB Weld and Marine Tex in your on board
tool
kit.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Those are on the check list...
--------
Maybe a couple of oversized hose clamps and a hunk of gasket material?

On Jul 15, 7:31*pm, "mmc" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...
On Jul 15, 10:26 am, "Harold" wrote:



"Tim" wrote in message

....
On Jul 15, 9:11 am, "Harold" wrote:

"Tim" wrote in message

....

OK, so while I have the boat out in the sunlight and have the back
panel off to look for anything that myight need repairs, I noticed
that the previous owner muust have left water in the left exhaust
manifold and it froze and cracked. They have generous globs of JB Weld
over them and it held well, However I noticed that there is a bottom
crack where it seems the JB weld has cracked loose and I can see a bit
of rust.

Due to aftermarke, the price of a lot of these items has really come
down to being reasonable. I probably ought to change out the manifold
but it's a real bugger to take of where it sits. So, I'm going to chip
away at the repair to see how sound it is.

this isn't a presurized system so there's not any steam build up. And
the repair looks like it's held for quite a while, but is starting to
fail.

Does anyone know of a better smear on product to seal the crack? Or
should I jsut bite it and buy a new manifold?

BITE!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Running around a lake where you don't
have far to go to shore is one thing, being out on the Ohio River is
totally another.

Bit still. It wouldn't hurt to have a tube of 'something' on board to
try to make a quick fix if necessary.

It wouldn't hurt to carry some JB Weld and Marine Tex in your on board
tool
kit.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Those are on the check list...
--------
Maybe a couple of oversized hose clamps and a hunk of gasket material?

I ahve an old car innertube folded up and tied. It fits in a small
space. Yes, either a person could use it for a float device (air
compressor on board) or with a box knife it can make some temporary
but ready gaskets.