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#12
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posted to rec.boats
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On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote:
On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote: On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote: Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes. Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now. I don't know that it would work but seems like it should. Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode. I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route? If none of this makes sense oh well. |
#13
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posted to rec.boats
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Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? If you have a galvanized trailer, just replace them with hot-dipped galvanized fasteners. If the existing fasteners can be cleaned up with a wire brush, buy some cold galvanizing spray paint - $8 at Home Depot - an re-coat them. |
#14
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posted to rec.boats
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Frogwatch wrote:
On Mar 24, 10:18 pm, wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch wrote: Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts. The leaf springs are also rusting badly, not sure what to do about them. That would depend on how bad they are. Surface rust is one thing. Serious corrosion is a different matter. Surface rust can be sandblasted and coated. |
#15
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posted to rec.boats
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Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote: Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes. Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now. I don't know that it would work but seems like it should. They won't help much with a trailer. |
#16
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posted to rec.boats
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Harryk wrote:
True North wrote: "Frogwatch" wrote in message ... On Mar 24, 10:18 pm, wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch wrote: Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts. The leaf springs are also rusting badly, not sure what to do about them. ******************* By new ones if you're that concerned... they aren't very expensive. If you wash your trailer after you use it, and maintain it, you'll have far fewer problems than Froggy seems to have. Maintenance to him seems to be "ignore it until it breaks." While I realize this is one of your signature attack posts, there is a problem with your "advice". People who use their boats often - a concept that is foreign to you - don't always have the luxury of rinsing their trailers until they arrive back at the dock or their home. That leaves a trailer in the sun for hours with sal****er on it after the launch. |
#17
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posted to rec.boats
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Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote: On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote: On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote: Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes. Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now. I don't know that it would work but seems like it should. Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode. I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route? If none of this makes sense oh well. None of that applies if the trailer is out of the water. |
#18
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posted to rec.boats
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On Mar 25, 7:55*pm, L G wrote:
Lil Abner wrote: On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote: On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote: On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote: Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes. Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now. I don't know that it would work but seems like it should. Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode. I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route? If none of this makes sense oh well. None of that applies if the trailer is out of the water. I am really sorta surprised at how much corrosion there is on the bolts and the springs and much less on the body. I do rinse it after every use so am not sure why the extreme corrosion. I think the original bolts were just zinc coated and not really galvanized whereas the body may have more zinc on it. I will probably replace the original bolts with hot dipped galvanized so as to minimize dissimilar metals in contact. |
#19
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posted to rec.boats
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"Frogwatch" wrote in message
... On Mar 24, 10:18 pm, wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch wrote: Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts. I ran the white ground wire to each light instead of just to the trailer body and I hope this will prevent a few probs. Reply: I always did that. My EZ-loader had galvanized bolts. Broke the bolt that holds the back cross member to the side frame one time. Actually after about 18 years, he wore through. So I would pull those and check them. |
#20
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posted to rec.boats
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wrote in message ...
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:02:07 -0400, OmDeFlume wrote: On 3/24/2011 10:18 PM, wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch wrote: Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them? Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts. You can probably buy a box of 100 for the same price as 20 or 30 bought loose. That was what I was getting at. Reply: Break even point seems to be about 60 pieces on smaller stuff. Maybe 40 on larger? |
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