I have a late 1980's model 60hp Johnson ob (on an 18' boat) with a problem
that I hope someone can help me make sense of.

It was running fine at the end of the season, but wasn't charging the
battery, so over the winter I took it to a shop that determined the
rectifier was bad. They replaced the rectifier, which corrected the charging
problem, but then the engine wouldn't open up under a load--well before the
boat could get on a plane, the motor would bog down and die. Using the
"neutral throttle" the motor would rev up like normal.

Back to the same shop, where they said the carbs needed to be rebuilt, which
they did. Back in the water, same story, engine bogs down under a load. But
then I noticed a ringing rattle under the cover, and found the flywheel nut
loose; I could remove it with my fingers.

Back to the shop, and now they say the shifter is not able to open the
throttle when in gear. They put on a new shifter, but it has made no
difference, it still bogs down.

I believe coincidences are rare. My suspicion is that when they worked on
the charging problem, they removed the flywheel (am I correct to assume this
would be done?) and never tightened it afterwards. Would a loose flywheel
cause the problem I've experienced? Could running with the flywheel loose
damage the fit where it can't be tightened properly, and the problem
continues? I suppose they could have screwed up the carbs when they put kits
in, but the performance of the engine didn't change any so I don't think
that's it.

Am I off base here? Any ideas?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Subject: Johnson outboard problem
From: "Garland Gray II"

My suspicion is that when they worked on
the charging problem, they removed the flywheel (am I correct to assume this
would be done?)

I'm sure the rectifier is under the flywheel.

These guys sound like amateurs who have taken a "shotgun" approach to repairing
your engine, that is; replacing parts until they fix the offending one. I would
demand that they eat the cost of all further repairs until the engine runs to
your satisfaction.
You need to have a long talk with the principal owner of the shop. Bring your
receipts, and do not be swayed or put off by underlings. Good luck.
People sleep peacefully in their beds at night because rough men stand ready to
do violence on their behalf......George Orwell.

I believe coincidences are rare. My suspicion is that when they worked on
the charging problem, they removed the flywheel (am I correct to assume this
would be done?) and never tightened it afterwards. Would a loose flywheel
cause the problem I've experienced? Could running with the flywheel loose
damage the fit where it can't be tightened properly, and the problem
continues?

If the flywheel was loose enough, there is a possibility that it wasn't seated
in the keyway. The flywheel could cause the engine to be out of time. If so it
would or could be retarded enough to not get full power.

Leanne

But
then I noticed a ringing rattle under the cover, and found the flywheel nut
loose; I could remove it with my fingers.

Obviously you have people working on your engine that know very little of its
technical aspects, and are costing you money.

The loose flywheel nut will cause the flywheel key to shear which would throw
the engine out of time. Remove the flywheel and check that key. If sheared,
you'll no doubt need to clean up the crankshaft and flywheel tapers, install a
new key, then torque the flywheel nut to exactly 105 foot pounds. Any less
torque.... the key will absolutely shear!

The rectifier is not under the flywheel. It would be on the starboard side of
the engine. It's a barrel shaped dome about 1" high with a triangular shaped
base which is attached to a bracket with two small different size bolts. It
will have three (3) wires, a Red wire, Yellow wire, and a yellow/gray wire
(some do not have the yellow/gray wire but rather have two (2) yellow wires).

Bogging out when throttle is applied is usually caused by one (or both) of two
things. Clogged carburetors or a sticking timer base under the flywheel when
throttle is applied. Even if the carbs were cleaned by your present
"mechanics", from what you've said, I wouldn't have any faith in their
rebuilding capabilities.

The timer base sticking..... with the engine NOT running, spin the prop and put
the engine into forward gear. Have someone else slowly apply the throttle up to
full throttle while you watch the timer base. It should smoothly advance up to
the black rubber stop cap on the end of the full spark advance stop screw.

NOTE.... Visit www.maxrules.com which is the MasterTech website. Go to the
Evinrude/Johnson forum to list your problems. Be sure to list the model number
of your engine when you do so that we can determine exactly what engine you
have.

Joe Reeves (30+ Years With OMC)

Garland Gray II wrote:

I have a late 1980's model 60hp Johnson ob (on an 18' boat) with a problem
that I hope someone can help me make sense of.

It was running fine at the end of the season, but wasn't charging the
battery, so over the winter I took it to a shop that determined the
rectifier was bad. They replaced the rectifier, which corrected the charging
problem, but then the engine wouldn't open up under a load--well before the
boat could get on a plane, the motor would bog down and die. Using the
"neutral throttle" the motor would rev up like normal.

Back to the same shop, where they said the carbs needed to be rebuilt, which
they did. Back in the water, same story, engine bogs down under a load. But
then I noticed a ringing rattle under the cover, and found the flywheel nut
loose; I could remove it with my fingers.

Back to the shop, and now they say the shifter is not able to open the
throttle when in gear. They put on a new shifter, but it has made no
difference, it still bogs down.

I believe coincidences are rare. My suspicion is that when they worked on
the charging problem, they removed the flywheel (am I correct to assume this
would be done?) and never tightened it afterwards. Would a loose flywheel
cause the problem I've experienced? Could running with the flywheel loose
damage the fit where it can't be tightened properly, and the problem
continues? I suppose they could have screwed up the carbs when they put kits
in, but the performance of the engine didn't change any so I don't think
that's it.

Am I off base here? Any ideas?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Coincidences can happen.... But I don't think that the charging problem
is related to the rough running.

More likely of coincidence is that your gas got bad over the winter,
which gummed up the carbs and fuel filter(s) along the way and caused
the rough running. Bogging down is either lack of fuel, bad timing
advance, or bad wires (in order of likelihood). The loose flywheel is
sometimes a sign of less than adequate maintenance, which could be
another coincidence, part of the cause or an effect of the real cause.
The flywheel nut is there only to keep the flywheel from flying off. If
it's on the shaft, the key's probably in the keyways and keeping the
timing close enough to right.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

I have a late 1980's model 60hp Johnson ob (on an 18' boat) with a problem
that I hope someone can help me make sense of.

It was running fine at the end of the season, but wasn't charging the
battery, so over the winter I took it to a shop that determined the
rectifier was bad. They replaced the rectifier, which corrected the charging
problem, but then the engine wouldn't open up under a load--well before the
boat could get on a plane, the motor would bog down and die. Using the
"neutral throttle" the motor would rev up like normal.

Back to the same shop, where they said the carbs needed to be rebuilt, which
they did. Back in the water, same story, engine bogs down under a load. But
then I noticed a ringing rattle under the cover, and found the flywheel nut
loose; I could remove it with my fingers.

Back to the shop, and now they say the shifter is not able to open the
throttle when in gear. They put on a new shifter, but it has made no
difference, it still bogs down.

I believe coincidences are rare. My suspicion is that when they worked on
the charging problem, they removed the flywheel (am I correct to assume this
would be done?) and never tightened it afterwards. Would a loose flywheel
cause the problem I've experienced? Could running with the flywheel loose
damage the fit where it can't be tightened properly, and the problem
continues? I suppose they could have screwed up the carbs when they put kits
in, but the performance of the engine didn't change any so I don't think
that's it.

Am I off base here? Any ideas?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Coincidences can happen.... But I don't think that the charging problem
is related to the rough running.

More likely of coincidence is that your gas got bad over the winter,
which gummed up the carbs and fuel filter(s) along the way and caused
the rough running. Bogging down is either lack of fuel, bad timing
advance, or bad wires (in order of likelihood). The loose flywheel is
sometimes a sign of less than adequate maintenance, which could be
another coincidence, part of the cause or an effect of the real cause.
The flywheel nut is there only to keep the flywheel from flying off. If
it's on the shaft, the key's probably in the keyways and keeping the
timing close enough to right.

If the flywheel nut was loose, I'm surprised that the flywheel key did not
shear. Be sure and check that the keyway is not damaged.

Thanks to all of you for your thoughts on this matter. I wanted to make sure
my suspicions were not unreasonable.
This weekend I'll take a close look at the flywheel, etc.

Thanks Joe, I'll try to get that info tomorrow.
Would there be any possible reason to remove the flywheel to trouble shoot
the charging problem?

Obviously you have people working on your engine that know very little of
its
technical aspects, and are costing you money.

The loose flywheel nut will cause the flywheel key to shear which would
throw
the engine out of time. Remove the flywheel and check that key. If
sheared,
you'll no doubt need to clean up the crankshaft and flywheel tapers,
install a
new key, then torque the flywheel nut to exactly 105 foot pounds. Any less
torque.... the key will absolutely shear!

The rectifier is not under the flywheel. It would be on the starboard side
of
the engine. It's a barrel shaped dome about 1" high with a triangular
shaped
base which is attached to a bracket with two small different size bolts.
It
will have three (3) wires, a Red wire, Yellow wire, and a yellow/gray wire
(some do not have the yellow/gray wire but rather have two (2) yellow
wires).

Bogging out when throttle is applied is usually caused by one (or both) of
two
things. Clogged carburetors or a sticking timer base under the flywheel
when
throttle is applied. Even if the carbs were cleaned by your present
"mechanics", from what you've said, I wouldn't have any faith in their
rebuilding capabilities.

The timer base sticking..... with the engine NOT running, spin the prop
and put
the engine into forward gear. Have someone else slowly apply the throttle
up to
full throttle while you watch the timer base. It should smoothly advance
up to
the black rubber stop cap on the end of the full spark advance stop screw.

NOTE.... Visit www.maxrules.com which is the MasterTech website. Go to the
Evinrude/Johnson forum to list your problems. Be sure to list the model
number
of your engine when you do so that we can determine exactly what engine
you
have.

Joe Reeves (30+ Years With OMC)

Would there be any possible reason to remove the flywheel to trouble shoot
the charging problem?

The stator under the flywheel, the circular component, is the beginning of the
charging system and also the ignition system.

When the charging system is faulty, it's a good idea to remove the flywheel so
that the stator can be inspected visually for cracks etc.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)

Thanks; then it would be a logical explanation for the flywheel nut to be
loose.
You have been a great help.
Garland

"ReevesJ32" wrote in message
...
Would there be any possible reason to remove the flywheel to trouble
shoot
the charging problem?

The stator under the flywheel, the circular component, is the beginning of
the
charging system and also the ignition system.

When the charging system is faulty, it's a good idea to remove the
flywheel so
that the stator can be inspected visually for cracks etc.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)