Hi Wayne and bayboat,

Thanks for that. My nav lights were mounted on the hull and required constant maintenance so we put a LED tri-light at the top of the mast. Looks like I'll have to get another set of nav lights mounted lower. When motorsailing the jib will obscure lights not mounted on the hull or on the bow pulpit. Unfortunately both these location take a lot of seawater.

Cheers,

Bert

On Thu, 03 May 2012 08:12:56 -0400, wrote:

Where nothing else will do, there is nothing as effective as silicone
grease in excluding moisture from bulbs and other semi-exposed
electrical contacts.



====

I'll second the motion regarding silicone (dielectric) grease. I've
started using it on just about everything, even dipping wire ends in
it before crimping them. You can buy a good sized tube of it at NAPA
for about $3 which makes it a real bargain.

Sounds like your switch may have to be labeled "under sail" and "under
power!"

The last of my old sailboats had 3 switches, one for the masthead
tri-color, the original for the deck mounted lights, and the third was
for the mast mounted steaming light.

On May 3, 10:02*am, Wayne B wrote:
On Thu, 03 May 2012 08:12:56 -0400, wrote:
Where nothing else will do, there is nothing as effective as silicone
grease in excluding moisture from bulbs and other semi-exposed
electrical contacts.

====

I'll second the motion regarding silicone (dielectric) grease. *I've
started using it on just about everything, even dipping wire ends in
it before crimping them. * You can buy a good sized tube of it at NAPA
for about $3 which makes it a real bargain.

Sounds like your switch may have to be labeled "under sail" and "under
power!"

The last of my old sailboats had 3 switches, one for the masthead
tri-color, the original for the deck mounted lights, and the third was
for the mast mounted steaming light.

I know others disagree with me but I solder and then heat shrink
connections that have corrosion potential. But then the wire needs to
be well secured. The solder makes that part of the wire rigid and if
it flexes somewhere nearby it may eventually break at the end of the
solder joint.

On 5/3/2012 3:09 PM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 3, 10:02 am, Wayne wrote:
On Thu, 03 May 2012 08:12:56 -0400, wrote:
Where nothing else will do, there is nothing as effective as silicone
grease in excluding moisture from bulbs and other semi-exposed
electrical contacts.

====

I'll second the motion regarding silicone (dielectric) grease. I've
started using it on just about everything, even dipping wire ends in
it before crimping them. You can buy a good sized tube of it at NAPA
for about $3 which makes it a real bargain.

Sounds like your switch may have to be labeled "under sail" and "under
power!"

The last of my old sailboats had 3 switches, one for the masthead
tri-color, the original for the deck mounted lights, and the third was
for the mast mounted steaming light.

I know others disagree with me but I solder and then heat shrink
connections that have corrosion potential. But then the wire needs to
be well secured. The solder makes that part of the wire rigid and if
it flexes somewhere nearby it may eventually break at the end of the
solder joint.

Ancor makes the best marine wire and their butt and ring connectors are
also corrosion resistant. They also make glued and non glued heatshrink.
Liquid lectric tape adds another layer of protection for wet locations.
I wouldn't solder anything smaller than 8ga. Your technique is fine
except I don't think it's necessary on smaller ga wire.

On May 3, 2:09*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 3, 10:02*am, Wayne B wrote:









On Thu, 03 May 2012 08:12:56 -0400, wrote:
Where nothing else will do, there is nothing as effective as silicone
grease in excluding moisture from bulbs and other semi-exposed
electrical contacts.

====

I'll second the motion regarding silicone (dielectric) grease. *I've
started using it on just about everything, even dipping wire ends in
it before crimping them. * You can buy a good sized tube of it at NAPA
for about $3 which makes it a real bargain.

Sounds like your switch may have to be labeled "under sail" and "under
power!"

The last of my old sailboats had 3 switches, one for the masthead
tri-color, the original for the deck mounted lights, and the third was
for the mast mounted steaming light.

I know others disagree with me but I solder and then heat shrink
connections that have corrosion potential. *But then the wire needs to
be well secured. *The solder makes that part of the wire rigid and if
it flexes somewhere nearby it may eventually break at the end of the
solder joint.

I found out years ago, that solderless connectors always work best
with a drop of solder on them.

On 5/7/2012 2:30 AM, Tim wrote:
On May 3, 2:09 pm, wrote:
On May 3, 10:02 am, Wayne wrote:









On Thu, 03 May 2012 08:12:56 -0400, wrote:
Where nothing else will do, there is nothing as effective as silicone
grease in excluding moisture from bulbs and other semi-exposed
electrical contacts.

====

I'll second the motion regarding silicone (dielectric) grease. I've
started using it on just about everything, even dipping wire ends in
it before crimping them. You can buy a good sized tube of it at NAPA
for about $3 which makes it a real bargain.

Sounds like your switch may have to be labeled "under sail" and "under
power!"

The last of my old sailboats had 3 switches, one for the masthead
tri-color, the original for the deck mounted lights, and the third was
for the mast mounted steaming light.

I know others disagree with me but I solder and then heat shrink
connections that have corrosion potential. But then the wire needs to
be well secured. The solder makes that part of the wire rigid and if
it flexes somewhere nearby it may eventually break at the end of the
solder joint.

I found out years ago, that solderless connectors always work best
with a drop of solder on them.

Use tinned marine wire and they will work even better. ;-)