On Sun, 12 May 2013 18:13:03 -0400, Hank©
wrote:

The best
corrosion prevention starts with tinned wire. followed by waterproofing
the connection.

====


The wiring n my old Bertram 33 was like that, done to near military
aviation standards. Never had any problems with it.

On Sun, 12 May 2013 17:29:56 -0400, John H
wrote:

Do you work on RV air conditioners?

=====

I don't even like working on boat A/Cs but like I said, necessity is
sometimes the mother of motivation or something like that. If we had
been at home I probably would have called my local service guy. I
know how to do some of this stuff but don't really enjoy it. I've
got 4 zones of A/C however and 2 refrigeration systems that I
installed myself. I carry hoses, adapters, gauge sets, a vacuum
pump, leak detector, refrigerant, tools, etc. but it is strictly out
of necessity. The tools and supplies pay for themselves the first few
times you (successfully) use them.

On May 12, 5:13*pm, Hank© wrote:
On 5/12/2013 5:27 PM, Tim wrote:







On May 12, 4:09 pm, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that
solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/
in them.

=======

The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can
work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid
copper wire instead of stranded. * There is nothing wrong with a good
crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. *One of the
secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire
pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the
connector.

http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-....

Oh, I do understand that, but i understand what I do. And what I do
seems to work well for me. then again, What i do on wiring, isn't
really a strategic process, but *in some cases, the ' keeping dry'
is.
* I've had wire crimped well into a connector and with a matter of
simple humidity, still corrode over rime making the connection
useless.

I do understand the 'hard spot' theory, but I also understand
anchoring the wire is important as well.

?;^ D

The primary consideration is a strong mechanical connection (crimp).
Soldering has limited value except in high current situations. The best
corrosion prevention starts with tinned wire. followed by waterproofing
the connection.

Leece Neville rectifiers have had crimped and soldered connections for
50 years. on the 70a. up to the 200a. 12v. .units.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...tail/11912.jpg

I've never seen a soldered connection in the end of the wire go bad.
I've seen diodes blow up and insulation burnt clean down to the bone,
but never a bad connection on the rings

Same way with the ones used on that big block 320a. unit that Wayne is
presently using.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...tail/11913.jpg

However it was found that the diodes in the 225 to 320 a. units
didn't have enough strength for reliability for the demanding loads
that the unit was designed for. . With improved design and
manufacturing techniques, the status is to use diodes that don't use
leads but rather, are welded to copper bars in a rigid assembly which
tends to be a superior update.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Leece-Neville-4800-4900-Alternator-Positive-Rectifier-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/$T2eC16NHJG8E9nyfmYkKBQbwRE%29pO!~~60_35.JPG

On 5/12/2013 11:32 PM, Tim wrote:
On May 12, 5:13 pm, Hank© wrote:
On 5/12/2013 5:27 PM, Tim wrote:







On May 12, 4:09 pm, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that
solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/
in them.

=======

The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can
work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid
copper wire instead of stranded. There is nothing wrong with a good
crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. One of the
secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire
pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the
connector.

http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-...

Oh, I do understand that, but i understand what I do. And what I do
seems to work well for me. then again, What i do on wiring, isn't
really a strategic process, but in some cases, the ' keeping dry'
is.
I've had wire crimped well into a connector and with a matter of
simple humidity, still corrode over rime making the connection
useless.

I do understand the 'hard spot' theory, but I also understand
anchoring the wire is important as well.

?;^ D

The primary consideration is a strong mechanical connection (crimp).
Soldering has limited value except in high current situations. The best
corrosion prevention starts with tinned wire. followed by waterproofing
the connection.

Leece Neville rectifiers have had crimped and soldered connections for
50 years. on the 70a. up to the 200a. 12v. .units.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...tail/11912.jpg

I've never seen a soldered connection in the end of the wire go bad.
I've seen diodes blow up and insulation burnt clean down to the bone,
but never a bad connection on the rings

Same way with the ones used on that big block 320a. unit that Wayne is
presently using.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...tail/11913.jpg

However it was found that the diodes in the 225 to 320 a. units
didn't have enough strength for reliability for the demanding loads
that the unit was designed for. . With improved design and
manufacturing techniques, the status is to use diodes that don't use
leads but rather, are welded to copper bars in a rigid assembly which
tends to be a superior update.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Leece-Neville-4800-4900-Alternator-Positive-Rectifier-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/$T2eC16NHJG8E9nyfmYkKBQbwRE%29pO!~~60_35.JPG





I have run across all manor bad solder joints. None of my making, of
course. ;-)

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, 12 May 2013 18:09:15 UTC-3, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim

wrote:



though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that

solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/

in them.



=======



The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can

work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid

copper wire instead of stranded. There is nothing wrong with a good

crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. One of the

secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire

pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the

connector.



http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-800wi

Last year we changed phone/internet/tv provider from a local company to Bell.
The installers didn't use a loup and didn't properly caulk the entry point of the optical fibre cable.
Water leaked into my house and the phone company's insurance had to make good on repairs.
You'd think the young installers would know better.

The first thing they learn is how to make a good 4" diameter drip loop!

On Sunday, May 12, 2013 3:52:22 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
On May 12, 2:32*pm, " Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·" åke

wrote:

"Wayne B" wrote in message



...



















It has been said that the definition of cruising in a boat is "fixing

things in exotic places". *Unfortunately there is some truth to that,

and it's also true that necessity is the mother of invention, or in my

case, motivation. * The circulating fan in our aft cabin (where we

sleep) air conditioner has been inoperable for a while. * It hasn't

been a big deal since we've mostly been anchored out in a good breeze,

and with mostly comfortable temperatures. * Today however we're docked

in Roadtown, Tortola (in the British Virgin Islands), the breeze has

abated, and temperatures have crept up into the mid to upper 80s.

It was time to do something.



There are no doubt professional A/C service people here in the BVI but

finding someone competent and reliable would be challenging enough

during the week and impossible on the weekend. *Out came all of my

amateur mechanic tools, trouble lights and test equipment. * With some

poking around, testing and inspection it was determined that the

circuit breaker was supplying power and that the local fuse was OK.

The connections behind the control panel seemed OK and nothing in the

wiring harness was obviously amiss. * What next? * I popped off the

cover to the junction box between the panel controls and the

condensing unit. * Once again voltages seemed normal and there were no

obvious signs of electrical issues. * Then I started tracing out the

wiring harness back to the control panel and noticed that there was a

big multi-block connector sitting in the middle. *Sure enough, the

connectors did not look firmly seated. * I used a big pair of channel

lock pliers to squeeze the connectors together, turned the switch on,

and voila the whole A/C unit came to life.



Mission accomplished.



It's more often than not that bad connections are the reason.



Boats seem to foster bad connections. Seems to me solder

is the only real reliable way to go when joining wires.



My refrigerator has been doing a great job of almost freezing

my beer since I re-crimped the stupid spade connectors at

the connector block. Prior to that it would "lose its way" and

stop cycling on.



--

Sir Gregory



though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that

solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/

in them.

I'm a solder fan myself. Everything else seems to slowly deteriorate on a boat. I was only getting about 8 volts at my dash and walking back with the meter gave me an additional volt or so each time I got one connector closer to the battery.

On May 14, 12:02*pm, wrote:
On Sunday, May 12, 2013 3:52:22 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
On May 12, 2:32*pm, " * Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·" åke

wrote:

"Wayne B" wrote in message

.. .

It has been said that the definition of cruising in a boat is "fixing

things in exotic places". *Unfortunately there is some truth to that,

and it's also true that necessity is the mother of invention, or in my

case, motivation. * The circulating fan in our aft cabin (where we

sleep) air conditioner has been inoperable for a while. * It hasn't

been a big deal since we've mostly been anchored out in a good breeze,

and with mostly comfortable temperatures. * Today however we're docked

in Roadtown, Tortola (in the British Virgin Islands), the breeze has

abated, and temperatures have crept up into the mid to upper 80s.

It was time to do something.

There are no doubt professional A/C service people here in the BVI but

finding someone competent and reliable would be challenging enough

during the week and impossible on the weekend. *Out came all of my

amateur mechanic tools, trouble lights and test equipment. * With some

poking around, testing and inspection it was determined that the

circuit breaker was supplying power and that the local fuse was OK.

The connections behind the control panel seemed OK and nothing in the

wiring harness was obviously amiss. * What next? * I popped off the

cover to the junction box between the panel controls and the

condensing unit. * Once again voltages seemed normal and there were no

obvious signs of electrical issues. * Then I started tracing out the

wiring harness back to the control panel and noticed that there was a

big multi-block connector sitting in the middle. *Sure enough, the

connectors did not look firmly seated. * I used a big pair of channel

lock pliers to squeeze the connectors together, turned the switch on,

and voila the whole A/C unit came to life.

Mission accomplished.

It's more often than not that bad connections are the reason.

Boats seem to foster bad connections. Seems to me solder

is the only real reliable way to go when joining wires.

My refrigerator has been doing a great job of almost freezing

my beer since I re-crimped the stupid spade connectors at

the connector block. Prior to that it would "lose its way" and

stop cycling on.

--

Sir Gregory

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that

solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/

in them.

I'm a solder fan myself. *Everything else seems to slowly deteriorate on a boat. *I was only getting about 8 volts at my dash and walking back with the meter gave me an additional volt or so each time I got one connector closer to the battery.

agreed.

BTW, Good to see you, man.