The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.

On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.

Sounds like a lot of work, that paid off. Hope you took some pictures. Good tip about the foam
brushes too. They do the job, they're cheap, and they can be thrown out.

On 4/28/2014 6:59 AM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.

Sounds like a lot of work, that paid off. Hope you took some pictures. Good tip about the foam
brushes too. They do the job, they're cheap, and they can be thrown out.

It was a labor of love which only a REAL boater could understand. The
same kind of thing you enjoy with your bike.

On 4/28/14, 1:29 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.


I never did much with varnish, I am not doing boats. I like poly
urethane for inside jobs and the thinning thing is the same. In fact
if you are shooting it, you want all of the coats thinned 50%

I shot about 15 coats on our counter tops and they are still looking
pretty good 10 years later in spite of all sorts of abuse.
My wife won that bet. I thought wood counters would be a maintenance
nightmare.


230 linear feet of reasons *not* to have more than a couple of spots
of exterior wood trim on a boat.

On 4/28/2014 8:01 AM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/28/14, 1:29 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.


I never did much with varnish, I am not doing boats. I like poly
urethane for inside jobs and the thinning thing is the same. In fact
if you are shooting it, you want all of the coats thinned 50%

I shot about 15 coats on our counter tops and they are still looking
pretty good 10 years later in spite of all sorts of abuse.
My wife won that bet. I thought wood counters would be a maintenance
nightmare.



230 linear feet of reasons *not* to have more than a couple of spots
of exterior wood trim on a boat.

Maybe but there's nothing that looks nicer and more classic than a Grand
Banks with nicely finished teak brightwork.

It seems like with modern chemistry however that a finish could be
developed that would last longer on oily woods like teak and be more UV
resistant than varnish. Some people use Sitkins Cetol but I think it
looks horrible and does not stand up as well as advertised. Our house
has two large wood panel areas on the front that were finished with
Sitkins along with the two garage doors. They have been refinished
twice in 14 years and they need to be done again. We are not in a
marine environment. I think well applied polyurethane might be better.

On 4/28/2014 8:01 AM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/28/14, 1:29 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.


I never did much with varnish, I am not doing boats. I like poly
urethane for inside jobs and the thinning thing is the same. In fact
if you are shooting it, you want all of the coats thinned 50%

I shot about 15 coats on our counter tops and they are still looking
pretty good 10 years later in spite of all sorts of abuse.
My wife won that bet. I thought wood counters would be a maintenance
nightmare.


230 linear feet of reasons *not* to have more than a couple of spots
of exterior wood trim on a boat.


It is with great joy and pride that I am able to say that I contributed
to your fear of ever again posting pictures of your crap on rec.boats.
Now, if we could only get you to shut up.

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 08:29:04 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 4/28/2014 8:01 AM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/28/14, 1:29 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.


I never did much with varnish, I am not doing boats. I like poly
urethane for inside jobs and the thinning thing is the same. In fact
if you are shooting it, you want all of the coats thinned 50%

I shot about 15 coats on our counter tops and they are still looking
pretty good 10 years later in spite of all sorts of abuse.
My wife won that bet. I thought wood counters would be a maintenance
nightmare.


230 linear feet of reasons *not* to have more than a couple of spots
of exterior wood trim on a boat.


It is with great joy and pride that I am able to say that I contributed
to your fear of ever again posting pictures of your crap on rec.boats.
Now, if we could only get you to shut up.

HEY! Someone likes him enough to have taken him for a boat ride yesterday! Besides, where would the
group be without his negative comments soliciting responses?

On 4/28/2014 8:29 AM, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:
On 4/28/2014 8:01 AM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/28/14, 1:29 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.


I never did much with varnish, I am not doing boats. I like poly
urethane for inside jobs and the thinning thing is the same. In fact
if you are shooting it, you want all of the coats thinned 50%

I shot about 15 coats on our counter tops and they are still looking
pretty good 10 years later in spite of all sorts of abuse.
My wife won that bet. I thought wood counters would be a maintenance
nightmare.


230 linear feet of reasons *not* to have more than a couple of spots
of exterior wood trim on a boat.


It is with great joy and pride that I am able to say that I contributed
to your fear of ever again posting pictures of your crap on rec.boats.
Now, if we could only get you to shut up.

Hey, not everybody likes beautiful wood work on a gorgeous vessel, some
folks like square white plastic boxes with no lines and a low transom

On 4/28/2014 8:53 AM, KC wrote:
On 4/28/2014 8:29 AM, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:
On 4/28/2014 8:01 AM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/28/14, 1:29 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom. That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat. Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project. We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.


I never did much with varnish, I am not doing boats. I like poly
urethane for inside jobs and the thinning thing is the same. In fact
if you are shooting it, you want all of the coats thinned 50%

I shot about 15 coats on our counter tops and they are still looking
pretty good 10 years later in spite of all sorts of abuse.
My wife won that bet. I thought wood counters would be a maintenance
nightmare.


230 linear feet of reasons *not* to have more than a couple of spots
of exterior wood trim on a boat.


It is with great joy and pride that I am able to say that I contributed
to your fear of ever again posting pictures of your crap on rec.boats.
Now, if we could only get you to shut up.

Hey, not everybody likes beautiful wood work on a gorgeous vessel, some
folks like square white plastic boxes with no lines and a low transom

Like a floating milk bottle? Oh please.

On 4/28/2014 9:32 AM, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:
On 4/28/2014 8:53 AM, KC wrote:
On 4/28/2014 8:29 AM, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:
On 4/28/2014 8:01 AM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/28/14, 1:29 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2014 22:18:50 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

The tenth coat went down two days ago and it's looking pretty
good. It
was a big job however. About 230 linear feet of hand rails and toe
rails plus about 60 square feet of teak overlay on the transom.
That's
over half a mile of sanding and varnishing by the tenth coat.
Hopfully
it will be good to go for awhile because it is a PITA project.
We're
having fitted covers made for the whole works so that should help to
protect the varnish from UV damage when the boat is sitting at the
dock here in the hot Florida sun.

Some lessons learned:

It is really important to heavily thin the first two coats (about
50%). That helps the varnish sink into the surface of the teak which
improves adhesion and also brings out the rich reddish brown color of
the wood.

Use the best possible varnish. We like Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.
It is expensive but it lays down well and looks good. Even more
importantly, you can put down new coats without sanding if you
re-coat
within 72 hours and the varnish has not been rained on. That is a
really big labor saver even though 4 coats is about the max before it
needs a sanding to smooth things down.

Foam brushes rule. I was able to get a box of 48 from Amazon at
near
wholesale prices. Get the good ones with the wooden handle. The
varnish brushed out fine with no lap or brush marks, and at the
end of
the day you just throw it out which saves a lot of time, energy and
mineral spitits.

For masking tape I highly recommend the green "Frog Tape". I left it
on for the duration of the job, over 4 weeks, and it came up easily
even though it had been wet numerous times and baked in the sun.

Get a really good sander. I like the Bosch 5 inch circular random
orbit model. It is almost totally vibration free, reasonably quiet,
and has excellent dust collection.

Use a heat gun and scraper for removing the old varnish. I've tried
just about everything, and on balance that is the best way. You need
a variety of scrapers to conform to odd shapes but for straight line
surfaces, the large carbide tipped scrapers with the rubber covered
handle seem to work the best. Think about wearing leather gloves to
prevent burns.


I never did much with varnish, I am not doing boats. I like poly
urethane for inside jobs and the thinning thing is the same. In fact
if you are shooting it, you want all of the coats thinned 50%

I shot about 15 coats on our counter tops and they are still looking
pretty good 10 years later in spite of all sorts of abuse.
My wife won that bet. I thought wood counters would be a maintenance
nightmare.


230 linear feet of reasons *not* to have more than a couple of
spots
of exterior wood trim on a boat.


It is with great joy and pride that I am able to say that I contributed
to your fear of ever again posting pictures of your crap on rec.boats.
Now, if we could only get you to shut up.

Hey, not everybody likes beautiful wood work on a gorgeous vessel, some
folks like square white plastic boxes with no lines and a low transom

Like a floating milk bottle? Oh please.


I liked the Navigator because it was low maintenance and wood-free on
the exterior. But, it was *too* white. I had the cockpit deck and
gunnels done in "Flexiteek". It looks great, easy to keep clean and is
durable and UV resistant. Only problem with it is unlike the white
decking, it tended to get hot to walk on in bare feet during the hottest
days of the summer.

http://www.flexiteek.com/