On Tuesday, May 6, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Let this be my legacy. I have been having this problem too. If you heat the flywheel it must cool down first because the hole in the center is actually getting smaller and the shaft it sits on is getting larger. If it isn't releasing after heating it and using a proper threaded on puller. I am going to see if I can try doing this because heating it will wreck everything underneath like the electronics and crankshaft sensor stuff. I am going to try using liquid nitrogen from a compressed can. Not sure where someone can purchase this. Freezing the flywheel and shaft while freezing the flywheel will actually make the shaft smaller in diameter. The hole in the flywheel will actually get larger rather than smaller because the size of the surrounding metal will "pull" the hole outward because of the mass of metal. Just as it actually makes the hole smaller when it is heated and what I believe this is why we can't get our flywheels off is because they are so bonded already, that heating is actually making them stay more bonded. Heck, if I had the resources and a big enough necessity, I would purchase a large deep freezer and put the whole power head in it for a couple days and then take it out and quickly use a flywheel puller. Freezing seems the safest proper way. Wether or not it can be achieved is the question.

On Sun, 28 Aug 2016 21:38:48 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 6, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Let this be my legacy. I have been having this problem too. If you heat the flywheel it must cool down first because the hole in the center is actually getting smaller and the shaft it sits on is getting larger. If it isn't releasing after heating it and using a proper threaded on puller. I am going to see if I can try doing this because heating it will wreck everything underneath like the electronics and crankshaft sensor stuff. I am going to try using liquid nitrogen from a compressed can. Not sure where someone can purchase this. Freezing the flywheel and shaft while freezing the flywheel will actually make the shaft smaller in diameter. The hole in the flywheel will actually get larger rather than smaller because the size of the surrounding metal will "pull" the hole outward because of the mass of metal. Just as it actually makes the hole smaller when it is heated and what I believe this is why we can't get our flywheels off is because they are so bonded already, that
heating is actually making them stay more bonded. Heck, if I had the resources and a big enough necessity, I would purchase a large deep freezer and put the whole power head in it for a couple days and then take it out and quickly use a flywheel puller. Freezing seems the safest proper way. Wether or not it can be achieved is the question.

Heating the flywheel will help in getting it off and you can usually
shrink the shaft with a little chunk of dry ice but be careful with
the heat. If you get it too hot you will lose the magnets that make
the stator work
What kind of puller are you using?
On my Mercs I have had luck just cranking down on the puller as tight
as I can get it (leave the nut on a few threads so the flywheel won't
"fly") and go to bed. The next morning it will usually be free. It is
something about the cooling off at night or maybe the flywheel fairy
just comes by and hits it with her wand.

On Sun, 28 Aug 2016 21:38:48 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I am going to try using liquid nitrogen from a compressed can. Not sure where someone can purchase this.

===

Liquid nitrogen is dangerous to handle and requires vacuum insulated
storage containers to keep it from boiling off. You're probably
better off to use a can of R134a refrigerant along with a can tap,
valve and hose - all available at your local auto parts store. Be
aware that cooling metal rapidly creates internal stresses that can
make it brittle and subject to breakage.