I know this has been asked here before, even by me...
but it's back on the To-Do list so I want to get information
and opinions again:

I'd like to install some kind of valve setup so that my raw-water
intake for my engine cooling can come from the sea-water
scoop or from a garden hose.

Our situation is that we have a gas powered 6-cylinder engine
that is direct raw water cooled. (No heat exchanger...the water
just runs through the engine and out the exhause.) It's simple,
the water pump just pulls water from the ocean and pumps it
into the engine. There is a hose from the pump down to the
through hull.

What I'm thinking is I'd like a "Y" or "T" type valve such that:
Port A - the one to the water pump - is always open
Port B - Goes to the lake / ocean - Is open when C is closed.
Port C - Goes to a fitting for a garden hose - Is open when B is closed

What is the best valve / sources for valves for this?
It's probably going to be below water-line, so needs to be very secure?
I think when I saw them in the past they were VERY expensive, why?

THANKS,
Gary

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

I know this has been asked here before, even by me...
but it's back on the To-Do list so I want to get information
and opinions again:

I'd like to install some kind of valve setup so that my raw-water
intake for my engine cooling can come from the sea-water
scoop or from a garden hose.

Why not just use a regular ball valve on the thru hull and then use an
inline T (in the section of hose between ball valve and strainer) for the
water spigot?

They make a valve that is specifically for that purpose. It's not a Y valve.
but has a hose connection that allows you to flush the engine when the valve
is the closed possition.

I think it's make by Forespar.. I have one on my boat but have reservations
about putting garden hose pressure on my water pump seals. (A good way to
get water into your engine oil.)


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Gary Warner wrote:

I'd like to install some kind of valve setup so that my raw-water
intake for my engine cooling can come from the sea-water
scoop or from a garden hose.


Does that mean your pump now pumps the right way?

A lot of people responded to your request for help but so far there
isn't much to indicate whether the problem was solved.


Rick

A lot of people responded to your request for help but so far there
isn't much to indicate whether the problem was solved.


Rick,

Yea, we just solved the pump problem yesterday. We visited a VERY nice
boat restorer and he gave us some hints. Here is the same text I posted
into that other thread:


-----------

First, THANKS to all of you for suggestions, I really appreciate it.

Yesterday we found out what the problem was and fixed it. It
turns out that the gears in the pump can go in there two different
ways. One of the grears is driven by the shaft (call this gear A)
and the other (Gear B) is just driven off of Gear A.

The drive gear (A) can either be either above or below the
other (B) gear. When it's on top it pumps one way (the
way we need it to) and when on the bottom it pumps in
the other direction.

I believe the reason for this is....on twin engine boats they
use two of the same engine, but one engine rotates in the
opposite direction. With the pump set-up this way, they
can use the same pump on either engine...just flip the
gears around.

Why we made the mistake: With the way our pump
NEEDS to be, the writing that is cast into the part is
upside-down. But when we put the pump back together
we, quite naturally, figured that the writing should be
right-side-up. Not so.

If that doesn't make sense or anyone wants a picture
describing all this...send me an email and I'll mail you
an MS-Word document that has pictures (and circiles
and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one,
kid.)

Again, THANKS,
Gary

"jps" wrote in message ...
"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

I know this has been asked here before, even by me...
but it's back on the To-Do list so I want to get information
and opinions again:

I'd like to install some kind of valve setup so that my raw-water
intake for my engine cooling can come from the sea-water
scoop or from a garden hose.

Why not just use a regular ball valve on the thru hull and then use an
inline T (in the section of hose between ball valve and strainer) for the
water spigot?

Would probably work as long a the alternate intake was sealed when not
in use. Otherwise, of course, the pump would suck air when trying to
bring up normal raw water.

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

I'd like to install some kind of valve setup so that my raw-water
intake for my engine cooling can come from the sea-water
scoop or from a garden hose.

It doesn't need to be that sophisticated.

Put a "T" in the water intake line. Put a valve on the T side, and then a
female hose fitting.

Under normal use, the valve is closed and the pump draws water up from the
thru-hull as normal.

When you are on the trailer (I assume that is why you want to run it off a
hose) you connect a hose and open the valve. When you turn the hose on, the
water flows through the fitting and out the thru-hull fitting. When you
start the engine, the pump draws the water up from the T. If the hose is
providing an excess of water it will flow out through the thru hull, thus it
can't over pressure the water intake hose. If the pump wants more than the
hose is providing, it will just suck a little air and thus assure that the
vacuum doesn't collapse the garden hose and pinch off the water supply.

As I wrote this, it occurred to me that your objective might be to flush the
engine of salt water while the boat was still in the water. In this case,
you would need to be able to shut off sea water intake otherwise the pump
might still draw a little from the thru-hull. If your boat is to stay in
the water for extended periods then you should have a ball valve mounted
directly on the thru-hull, so you can shut it off there.

Just don't forget to close the valve on the hose fitting when you are done
with the hose!

Rod

Thanks for the comments Rob.

Mostly we will be trailering the boat.

I beg to differ. You can over pressurize your water pump if it is of the
common Jabsco type.. These are positive displacement and the vanes block the
passage and pressurize the pump casing seals.. Seen it happen..

Although the full water jacket may not become pressurized anything between
the hose fitting and the water pump will, until the engine is started and
drawing a suction on the hose. In the Volvo MD series engines with a MS
reverse gear the raw water goes to the thrust bearing housing before it gets
to the water pump.. On other engines there could be other components. Not a
good idea to presurize system components that are designed for suction or
negative pressure.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Curtis CCR" wrote in message
om...
"jps" wrote in message
...
"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

I know this has been asked here before, even by me...
but it's back on the To-Do list so I want to get information
and opinions again:

I'd like to install some kind of valve setup so that my raw-water
intake for my engine cooling can come from the sea-water
scoop or from a garden hose.

Why not just use a regular ball valve on the thru hull and then use an
inline T (in the section of hose between ball valve and strainer) for
the
water spigot?

Would probably work as long a the alternate intake was sealed when not
in use. Otherwise, of course, the pump would suck air when trying to
bring up normal raw water.

The two intakes are thru hull and spigot. As long as one of them is closed
while the other is open, all works just fine.