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#11
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 14:49:40 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote:
I put a shovel or so of gravel in the bottom of the hole. I like to keep our damp soil away from the treated wood. I do my mixing in the wheelbarrow. Don't recall seeing the dry mix dumped into the hole and then water sprayed on top. This isn't 'treated wood', it's cedar. Dampness won't hurt it. |
#13
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 19:44:56 -0400, Alex wrote:
John H. wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 17:31:02 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEaazdWUiLk Looks good, except for the nails in the post. Don't want to deface this beautiful cedar. I'll think up a workaround. The cedar *will* rot. Paint the bottom (and the sides of the bottom) of the post with cheap roof coating and you won't have to worry about that. The pros do it here all the time. Will get a bit of that in the morning. |
#14
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On 10/16/2018 6:57 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 17:59:39 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 10/16/2018 5:49 PM, True North wrote: I put a shovel or so of gravel in the bottom of the hole. I like to keep our damp soil away from the treated wood. I do my mixing in the wheelbarrow. Don't recall seeing the dry mix dumped into the hole and then water sprayed on top. It works just fine. I have never seen a fence company mix concrete but they usually drive the posts into the dirt at the bottom of the hole and add the dry concrete to a post that is already pretty secure. I have done a lot of this sort of thing setting PVC dock posts, post wraps and pilings that are in several feet of water. If you make "cookie dough" concrete and dump it in, the water comes right out without souping up the concrete much at all. You better make sure you have your Rebar in because it is still too stiff to push it in once the concrete is in the pipe. I did this to squeeze a little more life out of a bad dock for the HOA while they were fighting about building a new one. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/piling%20patch.jpg 4 years later they are still thinking about it and I have worked on the pier a few more times. As I recall the bags of quick setting Sacrete had instructions on it for setting posts exactly the way I did it in Florida and how the video that I linked for John did it. Just dig a hole, stick your post in, pour the dry Sacrete in and flood well with water. Since the holes in Florida were already half filled with water, it didn't take that much more to flood it. |
#15
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On Tuesday, October 16, 2018 at 7:25:16 PM UTC-5, John H wrote:
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 14:49:40 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: I put a shovel or so of gravel in the bottom of the hole. I like to keep our damp soil away from the treated wood. I do my mixing in the wheelbarrow. Don't recall seeing the dry mix dumped into the hole and then water sprayed on top. This isn't 'treated wood', it's cedar. Dampness won't hurt it. It be good if you could get some hedge. |
#16
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 19:44:56 -0400, Alex wrote:
John H. wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 17:31:02 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEaazdWUiLk Looks good, except for the nails in the post. Don't want to deface this beautiful cedar. I'll think up a workaround. The cedar *will* rot. Paint the bottom (and the sides of the bottom) of the post with cheap roof coating and you won't have to worry about that. The pros do it here all the time. Posts usually rot off right at the top of the concrete. That is why a lot of people say not to use concrete at all. If you are just setting them in dirt or compacted gravel (the option we haven't discussed) I agree the coating is a good idea. |
#17
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 20:25:17 -0400, John H.
wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 14:49:40 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: I put a shovel or so of gravel in the bottom of the hole. I like to keep our damp soil away from the treated wood. I do my mixing in the wheelbarrow. Don't recall seeing the dry mix dumped into the hole and then water sprayed on top. This isn't 'treated wood', it's cedar. Dampness won't hurt it. Tell that to the cedar on my boat ;-) |
#18
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 20:27:03 -0400, John H.
wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 18:57:46 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 17:59:39 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 10/16/2018 5:49 PM, True North wrote: I put a shovel or so of gravel in the bottom of the hole. I like to keep our damp soil away from the treated wood. I do my mixing in the wheelbarrow. Don't recall seeing the dry mix dumped into the hole and then water sprayed on top. It works just fine. I have never seen a fence company mix concrete but they usually drive the posts into the dirt at the bottom of the hole and add the dry concrete to a post that is already pretty secure. I have done a lot of this sort of thing setting PVC dock posts, post wraps and pilings that are in several feet of water. If you make "cookie dough" concrete and dump it in, the water comes right out without souping up the concrete much at all. You better make sure you have your Rebar in because it is still too stiff to push it in once the concrete is in the pipe. I did this to squeeze a little more life out of a bad dock for the HOA while they were fighting about building a new one. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/piling%20patch.jpg 4 years later they are still thinking about it and I have worked on the pier a few more times. I've seen fences put up here. Most have 4x4 posts which are not 'driven' into the ground. The corner posts are concreted in, as Luddite's video showed. I was thinking chain link |
#19
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 17:37:52 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: On Tuesday, October 16, 2018 at 7:25:16 PM UTC-5, John H wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 14:49:40 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: I put a shovel or so of gravel in the bottom of the hole. I like to keep our damp soil away from the treated wood. I do my mixing in the wheelbarrow. Don't recall seeing the dry mix dumped into the hole and then water sprayed on top. This isn't 'treated wood', it's cedar. Dampness won't hurt it. It be good if you could get some hedge. If you really want them to last forever use Azek. I had some Trex like posts here and they will snap off but when I was dragging all of that Irma debris around I snagged my Azek mail box post and damn near pulled out of the ground but it didn't break. |
#20
posted to rec.boats
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Here you go John ....
On 10/16/2018 9:08 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 19:44:56 -0400, Alex wrote: John H. wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2018 17:31:02 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEaazdWUiLk Looks good, except for the nails in the post. Don't want to deface this beautiful cedar. I'll think up a workaround. The cedar *will* rot. Paint the bottom (and the sides of the bottom) of the post with cheap roof coating and you won't have to worry about that. The pros do it here all the time. Posts usually rot off right at the top of the concrete. That is why a lot of people say not to use concrete at all. If you are just setting them in dirt or compacted gravel (the option we haven't discussed) I agree the coating is a good idea. Many towns here in MA frown on or ban setting mailbox posts in concrete. Too many snowplows are damaged. |
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