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#1
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Hi all,
I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck, the cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area. I do have one more question though ( for now ![]() the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed into the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all but had a different idea I wanted some feedback on. As is: Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull stringers and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's 1/2 inch untreated rotted wood. My idea: Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to fit over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and leave like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but also provide a better mounting system. Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the end of the weekend, but also want to do it right. Thanks in advance! Mark. |
#2
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I left out one thing..
for the horizontal deck supports I would use 1x4x1/2 inch pressure treated wood. My deck is 3/4 inch marine grade plywood encapsulated in epoxy which I am painting. This should provide a relatively bounce free floor as well as be a lasting solution, but I am looking for some opinons. Thanks again! Mark "Mark Davis" wrote in message link.net... Hi all, I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck, the cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area. I do have one more question though ( for now ![]() for the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed into the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all but had a different idea I wanted some feedback on. As is: Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull stringers and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's 1/2 inch untreated rotted wood. My idea: Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to fit over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and leave like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but also provide a better mounting system. Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the end of the weekend, but also want to do it right. Thanks in advance! Mark. |
#3
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On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 01:16:48 GMT, "Mark Davis"
wrote: Hi all, I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck, the cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area. I do have one more question though ( for now ![]() the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed into the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all but had a different idea I wanted some feedback on. As is: Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull stringers and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's 1/2 inch untreated rotted wood. My idea: Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to fit over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and leave like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but also provide a better mounting system. Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the end of the weekend, but also want to do it right. Thanks in advance! Mark. Mark- although there are good reasons to switch to pressure-treated wood in the hull components, I can't think of a good reason to switch from a 1x2 to a 4x4. Trust in the original (structural) design. If you're replacing "rot", do so with pressure treated of the same dimensions. Added weight may undermine the hull design. Regards, noah To email me, remove the "OT-" from wrecked.ot-boats.noah. ....as you were. ![]() |
#4
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Pressure treated sounds like a bad idea, unless you're building a patio
deck. Too many chemicals and way to green. The moisture content is amazing in that stuff, the amount of movement after fastening will be extreme. Sounds like your deck is water tight. No need to use special deck beams. Use some quality (no knots, not purchased at Home Despot) pine and you'll be fine. "Mark Davis" wrote in message link.net... I left out one thing.. for the horizontal deck supports I would use 1x4x1/2 inch pressure treated wood. My deck is 3/4 inch marine grade plywood encapsulated in epoxy which I am painting. This should provide a relatively bounce free floor as well as be a lasting solution, but I am looking for some opinons. Thanks again! Mark "Mark Davis" wrote in message link.net... Hi all, I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck, the cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area. I do have one more question though ( for now ![]() for the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed into the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all but had a different idea I wanted some feedback on. As is: Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull stringers and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's 1/2 inch untreated rotted wood. My idea: Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to fit over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and leave like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but also provide a better mounting system. Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the end of the weekend, but also want to do it right. Thanks in advance! Mark. |
#5
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I'd go with clear fir, pine will rot like crazy. And I'd use 2x4's for
everything under the deck. "Eide" wrote in message news:VkOvb.5637$_h.145@lakeread02... Pressure treated sounds like a bad idea, unless you're building a patio deck. Too many chemicals and way to green. The moisture content is amazing in that stuff, the amount of movement after fastening will be extreme. Sounds like your deck is water tight. No need to use special deck beams. Use some quality (no knots, not purchased at Home Despot) pine and you'll be fine. "Mark Davis" wrote in message link.net... I left out one thing.. for the horizontal deck supports I would use 1x4x1/2 inch pressure treated wood. My deck is 3/4 inch marine grade plywood encapsulated in epoxy which I am painting. This should provide a relatively bounce free floor as well as be a lasting solution, but I am looking for some opinons. Thanks again! Mark "Mark Davis" wrote in message link.net... Hi all, I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck, the cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area. I do have one more question though ( for now ![]() supports for the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed into the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all but had a different idea I wanted some feedback on. As is: Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull stringers and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's 1/2 inch untreated rotted wood. My idea: Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to fit over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and leave like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but also provide a better mounting system. Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the end of the weekend, but also want to do it right. Thanks in advance! Mark. |
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