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Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about 10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the starting battery is dead? Jim I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1 and 2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run the boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a Pinpoint sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
"Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about 10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the starting battery is dead? Jim I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1 and 2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run the boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a Pinpoint sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill Where does the combiner read the control voltage from? Jim |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
EMF kickback? I guess you mean the voltage drop. Never heard of EMF
kickback. And, yes, a voltage drop to sensitive equipment can damage it. That's why using an accessory/house battery for the equipment is the best route to go. "Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... ...The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about 10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the starting battery is dead? Jim I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1 and 2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run the boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a Pinpoint sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill Where does the combiner read the control voltage from? Jim It reads the voltage from either battery. IF one gets above 13.4V then the relay engages and combines the 2 batts. Bill |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
"Mole" wrote in message t... EMF kickback? I guess you mean the voltage drop. Never heard of EMF kickback. And, yes, a voltage drop to sensitive equipment can damage it. That's why using an accessory/house battery for the equipment is the best route to go. "Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... ...The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill EMF is very much seen in starter circuits. The starter soenoid coil discharging induces a big voltage. The starter may also. Put an O'scope on the voltage line and you will see lots of scary spikes. Bill |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
"Calif Bill" wrote in message hlink.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about 10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the starting battery is dead? Jim I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1 and 2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run the boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a Pinpoint sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill Where does the combiner read the control voltage from? Jim It reads the voltage from either battery. IF one gets above 13.4V then the relay engages and combines the 2 batts. Bill That's what I wasn't sure of. It had to look at both batteries or another source like the ignition switch or alternator output. One minor nit to pick. The on/off/both switch you are using doesn't seem to enable you to pull battery 2 out of the circuit and operate the electronics on battery 1 only. Of course you could disconnect a battery cable if you had to. You have a pretty good setup there. Take a look at the intellitec web site if you get a chance. They have some pretty interesting battery control devices. Gobble gobble, Jim |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
..JIMinMA. wrote:
"Calif Bill" wrote in message hlink.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about 10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the starting battery is dead? Jim I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1 and 2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run the boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a Pinpoint sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill Where does the combiner read the control voltage from? Jim It reads the voltage from either battery. IF one gets above 13.4V then the relay engages and combines the 2 batts. Bill That's what I wasn't sure of. It had to look at both batteries or another source like the ignition switch or alternator output. One minor nit to pick. The on/off/both switch you are using doesn't seem to enable you to pull battery 2 out of the circuit and operate the electronics on battery 1 only. Of course you could disconnect a battery cable if you had to. You have a pretty good setup there. Take a look at the intellitec web site if you get a chance. They have some pretty interesting battery control devices. Gobble gobble, Jim I want to do a little rewiring on Yo Ho next spring, but I haven't really thought through what I should do. As equipped by Parker, the boat came with two Group 27 wet deep cycles, connected to a battery switch. If I put the switch on both, the Yamaha's alternator charges both batteries. The boat has a 12V refrigerator which to date I have not used. It runs off the batteries, naturally. If I turn the refrig on and follow my usual pattern of drift fishing or fishing at anchor, it will naturally draw down stored battery juice. I could switch off one of the batteries while the engine is not running, and let the refrigerator run off of the battery that is still connected...but this cuts my start-up the engine margin of safety. Typically, while drift fishing or fishing at anchor, I shut down all the electronics. I keep my portable VHF on, though, but it has its own battery. What I am thinking of doing is installing a third battery, just for the refrigerator and/or the electronics I might use while at anchor. That part is fairly simple. The problem is, I'm not sure how I want to keep that particular battery charged. I'd like the engine to juice it back up, but I don't want to tie it into the regular circuit...and I don't want to mess with a bunch of battery switches that I'll forget to turn on/off or whatever. So I've been toying with mounting a solar panel on the cabin roof, one that is hooked only to the accessory battery. But that, of course, will not be enough to rejuvenate the accessory battery if the refrigerator is running. An alternative is a small nuclear-powered reactor, but...with Saddam on the lam, my usual eBay source of fissionable materials is gone... -- Email sent to is never read. |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
I want to do a little rewiring on Yo Ho next spring, but I haven't really thought through what I should do. As equipped by Parker, the boat came with two Group 27 wet deep cycles, connected to a battery switch. If I put the switch on both, the Yamaha's alternator charges both batteries. The boat has a 12V refrigerator which to date I have not used. It runs off the batteries, naturally. If I turn the refrig on and follow my usual pattern of drift fishing or fishing at anchor, it will naturally draw down stored battery juice. I could switch off one of the batteries while the engine is not running, and let the refrigerator run off of the battery that is still connected...but this cuts my start-up the engine margin of safety. Typically, while drift fishing or fishing at anchor, I shut down all the electronics. I keep my portable VHF on, though, but it has its own battery. What I am thinking of doing is installing a third battery, just for the refrigerator and/or the electronics I might use while at anchor. That part is fairly simple. The problem is, I'm not sure how I want to keep that particular battery charged. I'd like the engine to juice it back up, but I don't want to tie it into the regular circuit...and I don't want to mess with a bunch of battery switches that I'll forget to turn on/off or whatever. So I've been toying with mounting a solar panel on the cabin roof, one that is hooked only to the accessory battery. But that, of course, will not be enough to rejuvenate the accessory battery if the refrigerator is running. An alternative is a small nuclear-powered reactor, but...with Saddam on the lam, my usual eBay source of fissionable materials is gone... -- Email sent to is never read. Throw out the DC reefer. Buy an efficient dorm size AC reefer, and a 1000 watt inverter. parallel a second deep cycle battery to your house battery and run the inverter off that. As far as manual battery switching goes check with West Marine and intellitec for alternatives. Happy T day, Jim |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
..JIMinMA. wrote:
I want to do a little rewiring on Yo Ho next spring, but I haven't really thought through what I should do. As equipped by Parker, the boat came with two Group 27 wet deep cycles, connected to a battery switch. If I put the switch on both, the Yamaha's alternator charges both batteries. The boat has a 12V refrigerator which to date I have not used. It runs off the batteries, naturally. If I turn the refrig on and follow my usual pattern of drift fishing or fishing at anchor, it will naturally draw down stored battery juice. I could switch off one of the batteries while the engine is not running, and let the refrigerator run off of the battery that is still connected...but this cuts my start-up the engine margin of safety. Typically, while drift fishing or fishing at anchor, I shut down all the electronics. I keep my portable VHF on, though, but it has its own battery. What I am thinking of doing is installing a third battery, just for the refrigerator and/or the electronics I might use while at anchor. That part is fairly simple. The problem is, I'm not sure how I want to keep that particular battery charged. I'd like the engine to juice it back up, but I don't want to tie it into the regular circuit...and I don't want to mess with a bunch of battery switches that I'll forget to turn on/off or whatever. So I've been toying with mounting a solar panel on the cabin roof, one that is hooked only to the accessory battery. But that, of course, will not be enough to rejuvenate the accessory battery if the refrigerator is running. An alternative is a small nuclear-powered reactor, but...with Saddam on the lam, my usual eBay source of fissionable materials is gone... -- Email sent to is never read. Throw out the DC reefer. Buy an efficient dorm size AC reefer, and a 1000 watt inverter. parallel a second deep cycle battery to your house battery and run the inverter off that. As far as manual battery switching goes check with West Marine and intellitec for alternatives. Happy T day, Jim Throw it out? Well, it is built into a cabinet. I suppose I could use it for dry storage. In fact, that is exactly what I am using it for. I've been using a couple of Igloo ice coolers to keep food, and I was thinking the refrig, though small, might be a better solution for some fooostuff that likes to be cold, but not keep in ice or adjacent to pooled cold water. -- Email sent to is never read. |
Auxially battery with isolator and solar battery maintainer
I can run the switch on "Both" to get #1 running the electronics. Switch it
after starting if I have a bad #2. Bill ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message hlink.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about 10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the starting battery is dead? Jim I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1 and 2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run the boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a Pinpoint sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill Where does the combiner read the control voltage from? Jim It reads the voltage from either battery. IF one gets above 13.4V then the relay engages and combines the 2 batts. Bill That's what I wasn't sure of. It had to look at both batteries or another source like the ignition switch or alternator output. One minor nit to pick. The on/off/both switch you are using doesn't seem to enable you to pull battery 2 out of the circuit and operate the electronics on battery 1 only. Of course you could disconnect a battery cable if you had to. You have a pretty good setup there. Take a look at the intellitec web site if you get a chance. They have some pretty interesting battery control devices. Gobble gobble, Jim |
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