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#1
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The bottom of my fiberglass hull appears to have many layers of anti-fouling
paint. I was thinking about sanding it down some then repainting in the spring. I understand that I need to be careful that I don't sand into the gelcoat(?). I was thinking of using an orbital sander with 80 grit sandpaper. Any reason to not take this approach? Do I need to clean it right after or will leaving it still spring be ok. The hull has already been power washed. Thanks, SteveL |
#2
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be prepared for a bunch of work.
The bottom of my fiberglass hull appears to have many layers of anti-fouling paint. I was thinking about sanding it down some then repainting in the spring. I understand that I need to be careful that I don't sand into the gelcoat(?). I was thinking of using an orbital sander with 80 grit sandpaper. Any reason to not take this approach? Do I need to clean it right after or will leaving it still spring be ok. The hull has already been power washed. Thanks, SteveL |
#3
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On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 21:37:43 -0400, "sel1" wrote:
I was thinking of using an orbital sander with 80 grit sandpaper. ========================================== It will take forever and you'll use a ton of sand paper before you're done. Best bet is a good chemical stripper, probably more than one application, followed by a light sanding. After you've done all that it might be a good time for some barrier coats. I've never used it but others have reported good results with a stripper called "Peel Away". I've also heard reports of people making their own stripper by mixing methylene chloride with corn starch as a thickening agent. Careful, toxic stuff. |
#4
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On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 23:27:26 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote: On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 21:37:43 -0400, "sel1" wrote: I was thinking of using an orbital sander with 80 grit sandpaper. ========================================== It will take forever and you'll use a ton of sand paper before you're done. Best bet is a good chemical stripper, probably more than one application, followed by a light sanding. After you've done all that it might be a good time for some barrier coats. I've never used it but others have reported good results with a stripper called "Peel Away". I've also heard reports of people making their own stripper by mixing methylene chloride with corn starch as a thickening agent. Careful, toxic stuff. It's about $60 per bucket which does 35/40 sq ft per. Thanks Wayne - I've been looking for a way to take the bottom paint off my Ranger this winter - this is it. I was just to lazy to go looking for it. All the best, Tom -------------- "What the hell's the deal with this newsgroup... is there a computer terminal in the day room of some looney bin somewhere?" Bilgeman - circa 2004 |
#5
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I thought sanding would be quick because you just rub your hand on this
stuff and your hand is covered with it! I might look a Smurf when done, but it would be the cheaper way? Is the "Peel Away" system where you layer on the stripper than cover it with paper like sheets and it all congeals into one mass and you just scrape it all off? Sounds like a cleaner way to do it. I could take a good guess by what you call it but the barrier coat, is that a water proofing seal or something and what kind of paint would you use. Thanks, SteveL "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 21:37:43 -0400, "sel1" wrote: I was thinking of using an orbital sander with 80 grit sandpaper. ========================================== It will take forever and you'll use a ton of sand paper before you're done. Best bet is a good chemical stripper, probably more than one application, followed by a light sanding. After you've done all that it might be a good time for some barrier coats. I've never used it but others have reported good results with a stripper called "Peel Away". I've also heard reports of people making their own stripper by mixing methylene chloride with corn starch as a thickening agent. Careful, toxic stuff. |
#6
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On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 17:21:03 -0400, "sel1" wrote:
I thought sanding would be quick because you just rub your hand on this stuff and your hand is covered with it! I might look a Smurf when done, but it would be the cheaper way? Try a few square feet and see how it works out. Most bottom paints take a lot of hard work to sand off and you put a lot of dangerous dust into the air while you're doing it. Is the "Peel Away" system where you layer on the stripper than cover it with paper like sheets and it all congeals into one mass and you just scrape it all off? Sounds like a cleaner way to do it. Yes. I could take a good guess by what you call it but the barrier coat, is that a water proofing seal or something and what kind of paint would you use. Yes, it protects against water intrusion into the gel coat. There are a number of different systems available. Here's a good one but there are others: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/xrefintepoxybk.asp |
#7
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I ended up sanding mostly built up areas and spots that were flaking or
looked like it might be starting. I don't know what paint is on there now but what I ended up using was a drywall sanding screen. I must say it worked really well and hardly wore out the pad at all. A lot of the dust would collect right in the pad and all I had to do was tap it and it would all fall out. I paid $3 for 5 pads at Cdn Tiew and $8 for the hand sander the pads fit on to. Just thought I would pass that on. Guess I will forego the barrier coat for now. How does one decide or know that a berrier coat is needed? SteveL |
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