I have a 2001 250 Johnson XXL which was new in May 2003. I just took it out
and drained the gearcase. It was full of water, not milky oil, I mean pure
water, the end had about a tablespoon of milky oil. I am 100 % sure it was
full of new clean oil when I put it in the water back in May. There are 200
hours on the engine. I know I should have checked/changed it sooner but it
is a 31' work boat and hard to remove from water. I pressure checked it and
no leaks but I have not vacuum tested it as I do not have the pump and
gauge. Anyway dealer is going to cover it under warrantee. Should the
warrantee cover a complete rebuild as the internals are probably corroded?
Or will they just change the seals?


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"habbi" wrote in message
...
I have a 2001 250 Johnson XXL which was new in May 2003. I just took it
out
and drained the gearcase. It was full of water, not milky oil, I mean pure
water, the end had about a tablespoon of milky oil. I am 100 % sure it was
full of new clean oil when I put it in the water back in May. There are
200
hours on the engine. I know I should have checked/changed it sooner but it
is a 31' work boat and hard to remove from water. I pressure checked it
and
no leaks but I have not vacuum tested it as I do not have the pump and
gauge. Anyway dealer is going to cover it under warrantee. Should the
warrantee cover a complete rebuild as the internals are probably corroded?
Or will they just change the seals?


Hi Mark,
Since it had more water than oil, your dealer should open it up and inspect
the internals. Chances are the bearings will be pitted or rusty and probably
grooved a bit from the inadequate lubrication qualities of H2O. If that is
the case, the dealer should turn in for a new g'earcase assembly after
talking with the factory. Was there fishing line around the shaft? Was a
drain screw loose? Was the prop all beat up causing a wobble on the shaft?
The owners manual said that you should change oil every 100 hours and check
it every 50. Now there are 200 hours on a commercial motor, according to
your post. When you get the new one, your best bet is to institute a more
frequent maintenance interval.

Bill Grannis
service manager

Reading this between the lines I can see several reasons for OMC to try to
squirm out of the warranty work.
Make sure you pull the prop, remove any fishing line, and make sure the prop
is in good shape. Suddenly remember you changed the oil 100 hours ago.
Replace any loose or missing drain screws.

And insist it come all the way apart for inspection.

-W



"Billgran" wrote in message news:eL4Fb.55036

Hi Mark,
Since it had more water than oil, your dealer should open it up and
inspect
the internals. Chances are the bearings will be pitted or rusty and
probably
grooved a bit from the inadequate lubrication qualities of H2O. If that is
the case, the dealer should turn in for a new g'earcase assembly after
talking with the factory. Was there fishing line around the shaft? Was a
drain screw loose? Was the prop all beat up causing a wobble on the shaft?
The owners manual said that you should change oil every 100 hours and
check
it every 50. Now there are 200 hours on a commercial motor, according to
your post. When you get the new one, your best bet is to institute a more
frequent maintenance interval.

Bill Grannis
service manager

Clams Canino wrote:

Reading this between the lines I can see several reasons for OMC to try to
squirm out of the warranty work.
Make sure you pull the prop, remove any fishing line, and make sure the prop
is in good shape. Suddenly remember you changed the oil 100 hours ago.
Replace any loose or missing drain screws.

And insist it come all the way apart for inspection.

-W



"Billgran" wrote in message news:eL4Fb.55036

Hi Mark,
Since it had more water than oil, your dealer should open it up and
inspect
the internals. Chances are the bearings will be pitted or rusty and
probably
grooved a bit from the inadequate lubrication qualities of H2O. If that is
the case, the dealer should turn in for a new g'earcase assembly after
talking with the factory. Was there fishing line around the shaft? Was a
drain screw loose? Was the prop all beat up causing a wobble on the shaft?
The owners manual said that you should change oil every 100 hours and
check
it every 50. Now there are 200 hours on a commercial motor, according to
your post. When you get the new one, your best bet is to institute a more
frequent maintenance interval.

Bill Grannis
service manager






I agree with the Clam Man; check for wrapped fishing line.

I celebrated the end of the fishing season on Yo Ho by noticing that I
*still* had all the paint on the prop. Not one grounding in the Bay this
year. Obviously, I wasn't trying as hard as I should.


--
Email sent to is never read.

On Sat, 20 Dec 2003 18:59:39 -0500, Harry Krause
wrote:

Not one grounding in the Bay this
year. Obviously, I wasn't trying as hard as I should.

=====================================

Obviously your water is too deep and overly charted. You should bring
it down to SW Florida for a proper prop polishing and skeg bash. I
have found two uncharted jumping rocks in the last three days.

Hopefully santa will leave a nice new propeller under the tree because
the old one is looking a little ragged right now.

Wayne.B wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2003 18:59:39 -0500, Harry Krause
wrote:

Not one grounding in the Bay this
year. Obviously, I wasn't trying as hard as I should.

=====================================

Obviously your water is too deep and overly charted. You should bring
it down to SW Florida for a proper prop polishing and skeg bash. I
have found two uncharted jumping rocks in the last three days.

Hopefully santa will leave a nice new propeller under the tree because
the old one is looking a little ragged right now.


Charted? Who needs any steeenking charts? I rarely look at charts for
fishing around Chesapeake Bay. If you are close to the "edges," there's
no water, even a half mile out in some places (maybe 2'). Most of the
fishing places I go to don't require the use of charts, When you're in
the middle of the Bay, you can, in most areas, see both shorelines.

Seriously, I do take a gander at my book'o'charts if I'm heading
somewhere I haven't been. There's not much to hit in the Bay, although
running aground in the mud is a problem.

In NE Florida, I lost paint on the props the first day in the water.
Lots of shallows to fish over, shallow oyster beds, et cetera. But not
much like that up here.




--
Email sent to is never read.

On Sat, 20 Dec 2003 22:32:21 -0500, Harry Krause
wrote:

There's not much to hit in the Bay, although
running aground in the mud is a problem.

==================================

Mud: good

Jumping rocks: bad

They are particularly annoying when the chart shows not even a glimmer
of trouble, and you went through exactly the same area the day before
without hitting anything. The good news is that aluminum I/O props
are a lot cheaper than bronze Bertram props.

it's amazing what fishing line can do !!!!
don't blame the engine, or dealer.....
next time check your prop, for fishing line which gets in the seals, thus
the water..... not rocket science here.

"habbi" wrote in message
...
I have a 2001 250 Johnson XXL which was new in May 2003. I just took it
out
and drained the gearcase. It was full of water, not milky oil, I mean pure
water, the end had about a tablespoon of milky oil. I am 100 % sure it was
full of new clean oil when I put it in the water back in May. There are
200
hours on the engine. I know I should have checked/changed it sooner but it
is a 31' work boat and hard to remove from water. I pressure checked it
and
no leaks but I have not vacuum tested it as I do not have the pump and
gauge. Anyway dealer is going to cover it under warrantee. Should the
warrantee cover a complete rebuild as the internals are probably corroded?
Or will they just change the seals?


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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noah wrote:

On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 04:49:59 GMT, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2003 22:32:21 -0500, Harry Krause
wrote:

There's not much to hit in the Bay, although
running aground in the mud is a problem.

==================================

Mud: good

Jumping rocks: bad

They are particularly annoying when the chart shows not even a glimmer
of trouble, and you went through exactly the same area the day before
without hitting anything. The good news is that aluminum I/O props
are a lot cheaper than bronze Bertram props.

We, Nor'easterners, also have "jumping rocks" in our rivers and lakes. We also
have "stump thumpers", and a Northern version of "crocodillia nastiosis", the
dreaded "Prop-ogator".

These little known reptilians inhabit waters throughout the Northeast, and
contribute a great deal to the local economy.

Regards,
noah

To email me, remove the "OT-" from OT-wrecked.boats.noah.
...as you were. )


Growing up on the Connecticut side of the Long Island Sound shoreline, I
was always astonished at rocks popping up in places where I just *knew*
there couldn't be any. Sometimes during an extra-low tide, nature would
reveal herself and I'd be horrified at the sight of jagged-edged "reefs"
that could only be a few inches under my boats as I sped over them.
These were unmarked, too. Not on the danged chart.


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I took off the prop and no fishing line, both plugs were tight and the seals
in perfect condition and like I said I pressurized it to 20 psi and sprayed
soapy water around the shaft, shift rod and driveshaft seals and no bubbles.
The only thing left would be a vacuum test which I did not perform. Anyway I
sent it off to the dealer yesterday. Come to think of it the prop was loose
and beat up on the shaft but the shaft itself was true as I rotated it. How
do you find the Mercury props with removable plastic OMC hubs. I have 2
motors with these props and they always seem to get loose.
"Billgran" wrote in message
om...

"habbi" wrote in message
...
I have a 2001 250 Johnson XXL which was new in May 2003. I just took it
out
and drained the gearcase. It was full of water, not milky oil, I mean
pure
water, the end had about a tablespoon of milky oil. I am 100 % sure it
was
full of new clean oil when I put it in the water back in May. There are
200
hours on the engine. I know I should have checked/changed it sooner but
it
is a 31' work boat and hard to remove from water. I pressure checked it
and
no leaks but I have not vacuum tested it as I do not have the pump and
gauge. Anyway dealer is going to cover it under warrantee. Should the
warrantee cover a complete rebuild as the internals are probably
corroded?
Or will they just change the seals?


Hi Mark,
Since it had more water than oil, your dealer should open it up and
inspect
the internals. Chances are the bearings will be pitted or rusty and
probably
grooved a bit from the inadequate lubrication qualities of H2O. If that is
the case, the dealer should turn in for a new g'earcase assembly after
talking with the factory. Was there fishing line around the shaft? Was a
drain screw loose? Was the prop all beat up causing a wobble on the shaft?
The owners manual said that you should change oil every 100 hours and
check
it every 50. Now there are 200 hours on a commercial motor, according to
your post. When you get the new one, your best bet is to institute a more
frequent maintenance interval.

Bill Grannis
service manager




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