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#1
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Father in law's boat is fiberglass with self bailing deck. Has leaked water
under that deck for years and now the boat is carrying substantial extra weight. I have pumped all the water I can out of the built in fuel tank well, but there seems to be no easy way to get to the foamed under deck area. There are access plates (6" round) , but these are located to give access ot the fuel connections and gauge. The boat's weight is so great now that it has bent the 5/8" roller axles on the trailer and poked a hole in the hull bottom with the broken roller. I left that open for a time until the ooze of dirty water stopped, but did not get much out. There is no bilge plug or drain, because the bilge area is totally filled with foam. Any ideas about getting this water out? I have a few, but would like to hear from others. Thanks, Richard |
#2
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![]() Pull up the floor and re-foam. Or go in where you can and de-foam. -W "Rich" wrote in message .net... Father in law's boat is fiberglass with self bailing deck. Has leaked water under that deck for years and now the boat is carrying substantial extra weight. I have pumped all the water I can out of the built in fuel tank well, but there seems to be no easy way to get to the foamed under deck area. There are access plates (6" round) , but these are located to give access ot the fuel connections and gauge. The boat's weight is so great now that it has bent the 5/8" roller axles on the trailer and poked a hole in the hull bottom with the broken roller. I left that open for a time until the ooze of dirty water stopped, but did not get much out. There is no bilge plug or drain, because the bilge area is totally filled with foam. Any ideas about getting this water out? I have a few, but would like to hear from others. Thanks, Richard |
#3
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Drill holes to let the water out... you'll have to fix these AND the
'holes' that allowed water into the foam in the first place. Forget it, that foam can literally hold water for years. The floor and stringer will rot before you get it dry. Only way to get it resolved is to tear it all out, inspect the wood for rot (replace if necessary) and let the wood dry and start over. |
#4
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Is there any hope that I can pressurize the space the foam occupies with ,
say 10 PSI, air pressure and give the water an escape hole low near the transom? Will the foam admit the air into the same spaces now occupied by the water? The boat and financial situation make the floor out method untenable right now. Please give me some hope here guys!!!? {:-0 Optimistic ain't I? |
#5
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You could try a wet-vac and pull a vacuum on the foam. Lydia did
something like that with her old boat and it worked. She was using a 5hp wet-dry vac with a 10 gallon tank. She tilted the boat up, nose high. Used a hole saw to cut into the back of the foam chamber. The sealed a vacuum hose to it. Drilled a "tiny" 1/32 hole in the front of the chamber to allow a bit of airflow. Turned the vac on and let it run. The low pressure, and heat from the sun caused the water to evaporate. It took several weeks to dry it out. Make sure to check the vac often during the first few days because it will fill up quickly. Capt. Frank www.home.earthlink.net/~aartworks Rich wrote: Father in law's boat is fiberglass with self bailing deck. Has leaked water under that deck for years and now the boat is carrying substantial extra weight. I have pumped all the water I can out of the built in fuel tank well, but there seems to be no easy way to get to the foamed under deck area. There are access plates (6" round) , but these are located to give access ot the fuel connections and gauge. The boat's weight is so great now that it has bent the 5/8" roller axles on the trailer and poked a hole in the hull bottom with the broken roller. I left that open for a time until the ooze of dirty water stopped, but did not get much out. There is no bilge plug or drain, because the bilge area is totally filled with foam. Any ideas about getting this water out? I have a few, but would like to hear from others. Thanks, Richard |
#6
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![]() "Rich" wrote in message .net... Is there any hope that I can pressurize the space the foam occupies with , say 10 PSI, air pressure and give the water an escape hole low near the transom? Will the foam admit the air into the same spaces now occupied by the water? The boat and financial situation make the floor out method untenable right now. Please give me some hope here guys!!!? {:-0 Optimistic ain't I? Cost to replace floor is high in hours, low in cost. I have heard, but never seen, stories of a solvent disolving the foam and refoaming. |
#7
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Rich wrote:
Father in law's boat is fiberglass with self bailing deck. Has leaked water under that deck for years ... (snip for brevity) ... There is no bilge plug or drain, because the bilge area is totally filled with foam. Any ideas about getting this water out? A couple. None that are quick or easy. If there is truly no way circulate air in there, your best bet is to take off the deck and rip out all the old foam. Or you could start at the transom, and drill a hole forward thru the transom and into the foam as far as you can, and put in a sealed hot dry environment, and stand it bow vertical. That might take a good while. I have lightened up several sailboats with waterlogged foam, but all of them had a way to circulate warm dry air under the deck inside the hull. And it still took a few months. This is not entirely a joking answer, the best way to solve the problem is to haul it to the landfill and buy another boat. Fair Skies Doug King |
#8
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If she's holding as much water as you say the stringers and transom are
probably already rotten and its not safe. I would definately get it looked at by a pro if you are not absolutely sure what you are doing before you put it back in the water. |
#9
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If one could assume that the stringers are fiberglass, and not wood ( which
would probably be rotted away by now)...it sounds like you have little to lose no matter what method you try. If she were mine, I'd drill a number of smallish holes at the lowest point(s) of the bottom and see if water drains out while on the trailer. I wouldn't hesitate to add a SMALL amount of air pressure with a small compressor..however I doubt that you could keep the pressure on for long without burning up your compressor machine. The prevous post describing using a wet/dry vacuum adds another method of drawing the water out. It may well take months, but heck, it IS Winter in most places. What brand of hull is it??? RichG |
#10
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Rich,
As Calif Bill said, replacing the floor is high in hours and low in cost. Actually, number of hours is probably more dependent on type of boat. I had to replace what started as a 1 s.f. area at the stern of my boat a few years ago. By the time I got all the rotting plywood out of that area, it grew to a 9 s.f. area. In my case, the folks that built the boat used 'oasis' which is a type of foam a florist would use to HOLD water! What moron thought this one up? I got all I could out of it. Two years later I had another 'soft spot' midsection. This time I removed all the floor/deck I could get to and removed ALL of this foam. Overall, I'm sure the boat is several hundred pounds lighter now. I really think you *NEED* to do this. At the very least, cut out a section and see what you're in for. I would be wiling to bet that your fiberglass deck is over plywood. If this is the case, your plywood is probably gone and the fiberglass layer is thick enough to give you a false sense of security. Not to mention that your stringers are questionable since they've been exposed to water and moisture for so long. I understand your distress over this when you feel you may not have the money to do this, but I don't believe it will be as bad as you think, if you're willing to do the work yourself. Either way, you should consider how safe is this boat to even use right now! PS: If you have a compressor, I suggest a tool like a high speed air body saw. This does an awesome job of going through glass and plywood. If you have just glass then a 3" air high speed cutter would work fine. The following are examples. I'm not recommending this company or brand, merely pointing out examples of what I'm referring to. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...itemnumber=113 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47077 -JimL Rich wrote: Is there any hope that I can pressurize the space the foam occupies with , say 10 PSI, air pressure and give the water an escape hole low near the transom? Will the foam admit the air into the same spaces now occupied by the water? The boat and financial situation make the floor out method untenable right now. Please give me some hope here guys!!!? {:-0 Optimistic ain't I? |
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