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Dean wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 18:36:30 GMT, Terry Spragg wrote: I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to get home, blame the fuse with confidence. The fuse is NOT NOT NOT for the trolling motor. As I implied, see above. The fuse is to save the battery, and the boat. You have the fuse in case the power wire chafes on the boat enough to rub through, thereby creating a short. The fuse is for this reason.... That is why it usually is rated much higher than the normal currents you expect to see, to reduce the resistance to something that won't affect normal operation. So, pick at a loosely used term, see if I care. The 'trolling motor fuse' should be at the battery end of the circuit, if anywhere, and would naturally be to protect the wire, a point I feel is not appreciated by you, or the original positor, who mentioned something about catching weeds or the bottom while asleep, and damaging the motor. The motor is internally protected against fire, trust me. Batteries contain internal fusible parts. No external fuse would ever be used to protect a battery by any informed person. So, if you are not leaving the troller and battery in the boat, and / or you inspect the wires once in a while, and respect the wires, and don't throw your ice skates on the wires, or hack off fishes' heads using the hull and wire as an anvil, or pile rocks on the wires, why would you need such wasteful overprotection? Would you fuse every inch of wire? The wire will fail near where the spade terminals or alligator clips are crimped on at the thin metal part, anyway, unless you really tried to set up some insurance scam. Insurance companies suck the life out of paranoid cowards all the time. Why volunteer? There comes a point where one might decide it is better not to soak one's self with gasoline than it is to wear a 20 pound dry chemical extinguisher, thermally operated, monitored by Brinks 24 / 7, with a flack jacket under in case it gets hit by a meteorite, no? One would be better off to pay the fire department to follow you around. It's like wearing a parachute while using stilts in a dirt mine, silly and pointless. -- Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock - SofDevCo |
#22
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On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:24:28 -0400, "Buck Frobisher"
wrote: -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario "Frank Ciuca" a écrit dans le message de ... Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well, anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well, good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup, not on a boat. Blue Sea Systems sells high-amperage fuses - up to 400 amps, or more. Of course, they don't fit the 1/4" x 1-1/4" fuseholders.... As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options, one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs (imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor, as well as the lights. sounds like a Blue Sea Systems "Power Post" (Although I wouldn't call them "Cheap" - but you could always fabricate your own from threaded rod and scrap plastic.) See http://www.bluesea.com/index.htm -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
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