I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

"n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.

Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary **** man.

"basskisser" wrote in message
om...
"n0sPaM" wrote in message
ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing
comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many
Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.

Most high drain items don't get fused, I expect many fires start there. I
had a car engine fire one time caused by a short in the battery to starter
cable, no damage to the battery even on that size, but it pretty well
vaporized a #0 gauge starter cable.

Can never go wrong adding a fuse on a boat. Try to find out how much it
draws under load first. A fuse about 15% higher then full load will probably
also blow if the motor gets stalled in weeds or rope, saving the motor too.

Greg Moore

"n0sPaM" wrote in message
ble.rogers.com...
Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary **** man.

"basskisser" wrote in message
om...
"n0sPaM" wrote in message
ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing
comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many
Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to
the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will
the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.

I'd recommend you look for a suitable load circuit breaker, instead of a fuse.
Canadian Tire used to sell a 20A breaker that should do the job. I used them on
the batteries in a sailboat for the supply line(s) to the electrical panel. I
never had them "pop", but slept better knowing they were there. The big
advantage is no spare fuses (or lack of) to worry about. If it pops, turn off
the motor and the as long as the excess load/short is no longer there, the
breaker will reset itself.

Kent

On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 18:56:24 GMT, "n0sPaM" wrote:

Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary **** man.

"basskisser" wrote in message
. com...
"n0sPaM" wrote in message
able.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing
comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many
Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.

On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 11:28:05 +0000, basskisser wrote:

"n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.

A 36-lb thrust Minn Kota draws over 30A at full load. Chances are, that's
what's blowing your fuse.

The large wires (4ga?) used can withstand about 100A or so (sorry, too
lazy to look it up...), so you don't need protection at 20. But I suppose
the motor itself, or the control cct, might short and catch fire.
Fortunately, the traces in the control cct would probably act as "fuses"
and melt before any real damage was done.

If you want protection, I'd say about a 50A fuse or cct breaker would do
the job.

Lloyd Sumpter, Protection and Control Design, BC Hydro.

The first line of defence for electrical wirings should be the
installation. Don't have wires that are permanent lying around lose and
unprotected that can get nicked, cut or worn in the normal operation of
the boat. I try to run power cables in plastic electrical conduit
=B9=82=B2=82=B3 where I can and wire tie out of harms way where I can't. =


In the case of a trolling motor that is installed in the open, the
cables should be lashed out of the way. They should not be laying on
the deck, for instance, where you could drop a portable steel gas tank
on them.

As someone pointed out, "most"=A0 devices will open up (but don't bet on
it) under the strain of the hundreds of amps a battery will deliver when
short circuited. If you have a need to fuse, and you certainly should
on a permanent installation, use an automotive fuse link (more reliable
than a mechanical breaker especially in a wet boat) at the battery.
They are rated around 100 to 300 amps and will blow if the cable is
shorted and will not blow from the normal load.

My opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Ron

Notes

1. Power cable in conduit has to be over rated, depending on the number
of conductors, because of reduced heat loss. Consult an electrician.

2. Cables are rated for max load at a max surrounding temperature
(usually 60=B0 or 90=B0 C). A cable rated for 100 amps will carry many
times that before it fails.

3. Marine cable is available with a SS braid for armoring. Its easier
to install than conduit. Don't remember what the standards say for
shipboard but I prefer National Electric Code rated conduit.

If you have a need to fuse, and you certainly should
on a permanent installation, use an automotive fuse link (more reliable
than a mechanical breaker especially in a wet boat) at the battery.

Bingo.

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 11:28:05 +0000, basskisser wrote:

"n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.

A 36-lb thrust Minn Kota draws over 30A at full load. Chances are, that's
what's blowing your fuse.

The large wires (4ga?) used can withstand about 100A or so (sorry, too
lazy to look it up...), so you don't need protection at 20. But I suppose
the motor itself, or the control cct, might short and catch fire.
Fortunately, the traces in the control cct would probably act as "fuses"
and melt before any real damage was done.

If you want protection, I'd say about a 50A fuse or cct breaker would do
the job.

Lloyd Sumpter, Protection and Control Design, BC Hydro.

wonder why the literature that came with the trolling motor specify a
20A fuse? I'll look into that.

Basskisser,

It might be protecting the electronic speed controller and not the total
load. Its hard to believe that the stall current of a trolling motor
wouldn't blow a 20 amp fuse.

Ron