Went out to the boat this morning, and found the vent window on my 300
Weekender had disintegrated into hundreds of little pieces......I have
absolutely no clue how it happened......Ah well.

Does anyone have a clue where I might get a replacement? I realize I
could go to a glass shop, but I would imagine they won't have an exact
match, so I'll have an odd piece of glass in the boat, which I'm darn
near finished restoring. Not that alone, I'm not sure I feel
comfortable replacing it myself, as it looks to be held in by the
pressure of the hinge channel.....

Any help/advice would be most appreciated...........

Thanks!

Sorry I can't help on your window question, but I do have a question. I'm
planning on getting a 300 Weekender in the 85 to 89 vintage. I was
wondering what you thing I should be looking for in this type of boat? I
understand that limber holes in the stringers that haven't been epoxied,
causing stringer rot is one area of concern. Do you know of any other?
Paul

wrote in message
...
Went out to the boat this morning, and found the vent window on my 300
Weekender had disintegrated into hundreds of little pieces......I have
absolutely no clue how it happened......Ah well.

Does anyone have a clue where I might get a replacement? I realize I
could go to a glass shop, but I would imagine they won't have an exact
match, so I'll have an odd piece of glass in the boat, which I'm darn
near finished restoring. Not that alone, I'm not sure I feel
comfortable replacing it myself, as it looks to be held in by the
pressure of the hinge channel.....

Any help/advice would be most appreciated...........

Thanks!

wrote in message
...
Went out to the boat this morning, and found the vent window on my 300
Weekender had disintegrated into hundreds of little pieces......I have
absolutely no clue how it happened......Ah well.

Does anyone have a clue where I might get a replacement? I realize I
could go to a glass shop, but I would imagine they won't have an exact
match, so I'll have an odd piece of glass in the boat, which I'm darn
near finished restoring. Not that alone, I'm not sure I feel
comfortable replacing it myself, as it looks to be held in by the
pressure of the hinge channel.....

Any help/advice would be most appreciated...........

Thanks!

The bunches of little pieces says it was tempered glass. Any glass shop the
does should be able to get you an exact replacement cut. Just look at the
tint and thickness.
Bill

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 15:57:38 -0500, "Paul Schilter"
paulschilter@comcast,dot,net wrote:

Sorry I can't help on your window question, but I do have a question. I'm
planning on getting a 300 Weekender in the 85 to 89 vintage. I was
wondering what you thing I should be looking for in this type of boat? I
understand that limber holes in the stringers that haven't been epoxied,
causing stringer rot is one area of concern. Do you know of any other?
Paul

First off, let me say that it's a wonderful boat. It's a real 30'
boat, unlike newer boats that are listed as being 30', but are truly
26'-27' with pulpits and platforms. It also has a 11.5' beam so it's
very roomy. I also like the straight inboards, vs. the V-drive
systems found in many of the newer boats. Other attractive features
are a solid fiberglass hull with 21 degree deadrise, and a prop pocket
system that provides for a 2.5' draft.

I was in a slip next to a newer 30' Sundancer, and my boat made the
Sundancer look like a dingy! In my opinion, these boats are one of
the best pre-owned values on the market.

As I understand it, '85 was the last year that Sea Ray made boats, as
a company. '86 and on were Brunswick boats, and evidently as years
passed, the quality was not quite as good as the original Sea Ray
version, but I have not witnessed this first hand.

I had mine professionally surveyed, which I would highly recommend.
The limber holes in my boat have PVC pipe glassed and epoxied into the
limber holes, and the surveyor found no stringer rot whatsoever. It's
apparent that Sea Ray did a pretty good job of glassing in the
stringers in these boats. Structurally, the boat seems to be
constructed well above average. I don't have a single spider crack
anywhere on the boat, even near rounded areas of the cockpit and deck.
I would assume the layup was done very well, and high quality gelcoat
was used. My gelcoat buffs to a shine as easily as a two year old
boat!

Problem areas could be where holes were drilled into stringers and
left open, or unsealed; leaking cabin windows, hull blisters (mine had
none), or rot of deck coring, if again, there was water intrusion due
to carelessness in the install of deck components.

You can e-mail me privately for more info.........I bought my boat,
with the intent on keeping it for only a year, but I have enjoyed it
so much, I'm now on 3 years.....

Thanks for your reply. I agree, that's why the newest I'm looking at is an
1989, in 1990 they were designed by Brunswick and as you say the 310 isn't
as big as the 300. I have a friend with an 86 Sundancer, nice boat but I'd
prefer the inboards of a Weekender. A fellow at work has an 87 Weekender 300
and he had the stringer problem but did get it dried out. All the specs
I've found list the boat at 11" wide though. Didn't realize that the
deadrise was 21 degrees since the Sea Ray specs don't list this, good to
know, should take rough water well.
Paul

wrote in message
news
On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 15:57:38 -0500, "Paul Schilter"
paulschilter@comcast,dot,net wrote:

Sorry I can't help on your window question, but I do have a question.
I'm
planning on getting a 300 Weekender in the 85 to 89 vintage. I was
wondering what you thing I should be looking for in this type of boat? I
understand that limber holes in the stringers that haven't been epoxied,
causing stringer rot is one area of concern. Do you know of any other?
Paul

First off, let me say that it's a wonderful boat. It's a real 30'
boat, unlike newer boats that are listed as being 30', but are truly
26'-27' with pulpits and platforms. It also has a 11.5' beam so it's
very roomy. I also like the straight inboards, vs. the V-drive
systems found in many of the newer boats. Other attractive features
are a solid fiberglass hull with 21 degree deadrise, and a prop pocket
system that provides for a 2.5' draft.

I was in a slip next to a newer 30' Sundancer, and my boat made the
Sundancer look like a dingy! In my opinion, these boats are one of
the best pre-owned values on the market.

As I understand it, '85 was the last year that Sea Ray made boats, as
a company. '86 and on were Brunswick boats, and evidently as years
passed, the quality was not quite as good as the original Sea Ray
version, but I have not witnessed this first hand.

I had mine professionally surveyed, which I would highly recommend.
The limber holes in my boat have PVC pipe glassed and epoxied into the
limber holes, and the surveyor found no stringer rot whatsoever. It's
apparent that Sea Ray did a pretty good job of glassing in the
stringers in these boats. Structurally, the boat seems to be
constructed well above average. I don't have a single spider crack
anywhere on the boat, even near rounded areas of the cockpit and deck.
I would assume the layup was done very well, and high quality gelcoat
was used. My gelcoat buffs to a shine as easily as a two year old
boat!

Problem areas could be where holes were drilled into stringers and
left open, or unsealed; leaking cabin windows, hull blisters (mine had
none), or rot of deck coring, if again, there was water intrusion due
to carelessness in the install of deck components.

You can e-mail me privately for more info.........I bought my boat,
with the intent on keeping it for only a year, but I have enjoyed it
so much, I'm now on 3 years.....

FWIW, my local auto glass shop can replace any boat window glass I've broken
so far. Type of glass, tint, shape, type of moulding, etc. no problem. You
might check them out.