I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser 5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than the "ears" over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind of setup to flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

Try this link: http://mstguardian.com/index.htm
I've been using the ears for 6 years because I'm too cheap to spend the
bucks, but this will be one of the first things I add when I win the
lottery.

"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser 5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than the "ears" over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind of setup to flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 16:04:07 +0000, Rich wrote:

I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser 5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than the "ears" over the
outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind of setup to flush the motor
without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

If you're running in salt water, you should REALLY have FWC (ie a heat
exchanger, so the engine is cooled with coolant (antifreeze/water) and the
coolant is cooled with the salt water. If you have this, I don't think there's a
big need for flushing. If not, get it!

Lloyd Sumpter
"Far Cove" Catalina 36 - new engine, FWC

Flushing with the muffs will flush the entire coling system including the
outdrive. The raw water pump is in the outdrive. Run for about 5 minutes
or until the temp gauge shows normal operating temp to insure that the
thermostat opens. You really can't beat this flushing technique, it is
cheap and thorough.

A closed cooling system can increase the life of some of your engine
components. Unfortunately the parts that will deteriorate the fastest in
salt water are the exhaust manifolds and exhaust risers. The combination of
hot exhaust and salt water makes an extra corrosive mix. No closed cooling
system will include the exhaust risers. The raw water from the closed
system heat exchanger is used to cool the risers and then dumps into the
exhaust. Some closed systems will include the exhaust manifolds and some
will not. It takes more cooling capacity to include the exhaust manifolds.
There are different gaskets and hose connections for the exhaust system when
you convert them to a closed system.

In salt water depending on amount of use the life of exhaust risers can be
as little as 3 to 5 years. Manifolds a few years longer. They should be
removed and inspected when they start to reach these ages. The engine cast
iron block its self will wear out long before the effects of corrosion will
matter. There are lots of raw water cooled inboard blocks running around
and sitting in salt water for 20 years or longer.

"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser 5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than the "ears" over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind of setup to flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

Flushing with earmuffs is the best and most throuugh method. Some guys
will drop their drive into a "horse trough" flushing tub and actually run
the drive in gear. All I can see this does is re-circulate the brine water.

Since you are running in salt water be sure to replace your manifolds and
risers every 2 or 3 years. If these fail, you will need to replace the
entire engine at 4 or 5 grand.
--
Capt. Frank

__c
\ _ | \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
www.home.earthlink.net/~aartworks
"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser 5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than the "ears"
over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind of setup to
flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

Thanks for the replys fellas. Guess I'll stick with the muffs....

Rich


"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser 5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than the "ears" over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind of setup to flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

Hi all. I take the flush one step futher by flushing in the water with a
water muff. I welded a rod and handle to my muff type flusher. With this I
can reach down and slide the muff onto the leg[with the watrer hose
attached] , turn on the water annd start the engine. The positive pressure
from the hose displaces the salt water . I keep my rawwater cooled boat in
the salt for about 8 months a year ,and using this method, I have the
original 15 year old manifolds on the boat. I did replace the risers a
couple of years ago, but they actually were still ok.I run a 260 hp merc
alpha 1. cheers

"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
Thanks for the replys fellas. Guess I'll stick with the muffs....

Rich


"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser 5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than the "ears"
over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind of setup to
flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

That's a pretty good idea.

"gltlwlelilslslsl" wrote in message
news:R98Yb.533034$ts4.169599@pd7tw3no...
Hi all. I take the flush one step futher by flushing in the water with a
water muff. I welded a rod and handle to my muff type flusher. With this I
can reach down and slide the muff onto the leg[with the watrer hose
attached] , turn on the water annd start the engine. The positive pressure
from the hose displaces the salt water . I keep my rawwater cooled boat in
the salt for about 8 months a year ,and using this method, I have the
original 15 year old manifolds on the boat. I did replace the risers a
couple of years ago, but they actually were still ok.I run a 260 hp merc
alpha 1. cheers

"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
Thanks for the replys fellas. Guess I'll stick with the muffs....

Rich


"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser 5.0, operated
in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than the "ears"
over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind of setup to
flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

they are called muffs
"William G. Andersen" wrote in message
news:SwPXb.3660$hE.29@fed1read07...
Try this link: http://mstguardian.com/index.htm
I've been using the ears for 6 years because I'm too cheap
to spend the
bucks, but this will be one of the first things I add when I
win the
lottery.

"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser
5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than
the "ears" over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind
of setup to flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich

One more think on using the muffs. DO NOT run the hose at
full blast. Just crack a little cause too much water
pressure and flow will damage the rubber water pump
impellers. Take it from an x merc. mech.
"Lawrence James" wrote in
message
ink.net...
Flushing with the muffs will flush the entire coling system
including the
outdrive. The raw water pump is in the outdrive. Run for
about 5 minutes
or until the temp gauge shows normal operating temp to
insure that the
thermostat opens. You really can't beat this flushing
technique, it is
cheap and thorough.

A closed cooling system can increase the life of some of
your engine
components. Unfortunately the parts that will deteriorate
the fastest in
salt water are the exhaust manifolds and exhaust risers.
The combination of
hot exhaust and salt water makes an extra corrosive mix. No
closed cooling
system will include the exhaust risers. The raw water from
the closed
system heat exchanger is used to cool the risers and then
dumps into the
exhaust. Some closed systems will include the exhaust
manifolds and some
will not. It takes more cooling capacity to include the
exhaust manifolds.
There are different gaskets and hose connections for the
exhaust system when
you convert them to a closed system.

In salt water depending on amount of use the life of exhaust
risers can be
as little as 3 to 5 years. Manifolds a few years longer.
They should be
removed and inspected when they start to reach these ages.
The engine cast
iron block its self will wear out long before the effects of
corrosion will
matter. There are lots of raw water cooled inboard blocks
running around
and sitting in salt water for 20 years or longer.

"Rich" wrote in message
. com...
I'm fairly new to motor boats, we now have a Mercruiser
5.0, operated in
sal****er only. Is there a better way to flush other than
the "ears" over
the outdrive? I thought at one time there was some kind
of setup to flush
the motor without running it, anyone know for sure?

TIA
Rich