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#1
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Replacing part of the boat floor.... HELP!!
From the day I was hoodwinked into buying this boat I've had some
problems. Never buy a boat from a good looking woman in a bikini. Oh ya, it looked great.... The boat boys, Im talking about the boat now. I even took it to the local dealer in town to check it out. I got a clear green light from them. The first time out the engine exploaded and sent smoke from every cavity in the boat. I had the wife and kids onboard and sent them to the front of the boat while I grabbed the fire extenguisher and pulled the enginre cover back. It turned out to be a cracked block. Oil all over the manifolds. I chaulked it up to buyer beware . Althought the local dealer no longer gets ANY of my business. Im in Plano, TX. so let me know if you want to know the name of the place. So then, I get it all fixed up and then the little intermitant problem happen. Batteries, Carburator, Starter... Now all that seems to be working ok and then someone steps onto the boat hard and then...CRASH. the floor has gotten weak around the ski hull. NOW, I have a project. I am wanting to replace the 2" frame around the ski storage and place braces down from the floor to the hull. I may not be able to store skis there but I want a solid floor witout ripping it all up. Now Im wondering what type of materials to use. Im thinking of ripping 2" strips of pressure treated around the skiframe and using appoxy and fiberslass so give it strength. Im not certain I can get all of the rotten floor up without taking the entire floor up. It only looks rotted for a about 2 inches around the ski hole. Is there any way to seal rotten plywood? Im thinking if I can get to solid wood by using a dremmel I can get a pretty good hold on it by filling in the bad parts with appoxy. Im not concerned about the cosmetices because the floor will be recovered with carpet and the frame will be under the floor. QUESTION TIME!!!!! Does this plan sound feasable? Could someone advise me on the materals to use? Ive read that appoxy and fiberglass doesn not adhere well to pressure trated wood. Is this true? Should I use marine plywood? Is it the same as pressure treated plywood? What kind or resen should I use? Im a novice so ANY help would be appriciated. Is this stuff REALLY hard to work with? My plan would be to build the frame in 2 peices, glass or resen the 2" frame before I put it in. then, screw the frame in place under the ski hole and appoxy the crap out of it and putting glass around the edges to seal it to the rest of the good floor. I just need a good quick solution to the floor. For the record, Its a Sea Ray Seville 1988. Man they made alot of those boats. Ive had some great times on it too but I see another boat in my future. Next time, Im looking a little closer. AT THE BOAT! Thanks in advance. Ed |
#2
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Replacing part of the boat floor.... HELP!!
From the day I was hoodwinked into buying this boat I've had some
problems. Never buy a boat from a good looking woman in a bikini. Or anything else. (non-related story follows).. About 25 years ago, we had a guy running a waterbed store around here. Most of the customers were single guys. All of the salespeople were nicely stacked, provocatively dressed young ladies. The atmosphere in the showroom was private and seductive. The same waterbeds that were selling elsewhere for $149, were flying out the door as fast as the guy could stock them at $500 a pop. (That would be like, maybe, $1500 in 2003). Turns out that the primary sales technique involved standing an inch or two away from the prospect, and along with a strategic wink, wiggle, jiggle, and brushback of the hair a promise to "personally deliver your new waterbed and make sure you're completely satisfied." Delivery day would come around, and the customers would leap to the sound of the doorbell only to discover the saleslady, (dressed in overalls), and two 350-pound grumpy male truckdrivers delivering his waterbed. They'd take an hour to set up the frame and fill the mattress with water, and then the saleslady would get the guy to sign a statement that he was completely satisfied with the delivery and set up! They finally shut the guy down under some kind of consumer protection law. False advertising or something. Pretty funny, really. As far as the floor rot: Im thinking of ripping 2" strips of pressure treated around the skiframe and using appoxy and fiberslass so give it strength. That's a technique called "sistering". Putting a good chunk of wood next to a compromised member. Commonly done with frames on older wooden boats, but you have to make sure you're killed all the rot spores in the bad wood or the problem will spread like a determined cancer. Im not certain I can get all of the rotten floor up without taking the entire floor up. ..It only looks rotted for a about 2 inches around the ski hole. Is there any way to seal rotten plywood? Once plywood goes bad it starts delaminating. You will probably never catch up to the problem with any sort of sealer or miracle cure. Yanking it out and replacing it would be the best bet. Im thinking if I can get to solid wood by using a dremmel I can get a pretty good hold on it by filling in the bad parts with appoxy. Im not concerned about the cosmetices because the floor will be recovered with carpet and the frame will be under the floor. You will want to go well beyond the most obviously rotted wood when you pull the old stuff out. Pull out the rot, and some of the "still looks good" wood immediately next to it. It's the only way to be sure you are really fixing the problem. The carpet was probably a major contributor to your problem. Wet carpets on plywood floors are a good combination for promoting rot. My plan would be to build the frame in 2 peices, glass or resen the 2" frame before I put it in. then, screw the frame in place under the ski hole and appoxy the crap out of it and putting glass around the edges to seal it to the rest of the good floor. I'm unclear about whether you plan to completely remove the present rot or just reinforce the rotten floor with new framework. Get the rot out of there, whatever you do. Should I use marine plywood? Is it the same as pressure treated plywood? Marine plywood is not the same as pressure treated plywood. Marine ply will not have any voids or "blows" in the laminations, but pressure treated ply is likely to have some. Marine ply will use waterproof glues, and most exterior plywoods will also use waterproof glue. Anybody onboard your boat in bare feet? Yes? Stay away from most pressure treated wood. Arsenic is harmful to children and other living things. That saoking wet carpet could eventually have a scary arsenic content if laid over pressure treated plywood. You can "get by" with exterior ply, if getting by is good enough. You would use marine ply for a better and more permanent fix. |
#3
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Replacing part of the boat floor.... HELP!!
Not sure I followed 100% what you are thinking of doing, but sounds to me like it'd be about the same amount of work to totally remove the floor and replace it with marine ply-wood. It'll be a better job and possibly not any more work. Probably less money as you won't be buying epoxy. If you want more informed opininos about this put your question on rec.boats.building. |
#4
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Replacing part of the boat floor.... HELP!!
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#7
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Replacing part of the boat floor.... HELP!!
THANKS IGNORAMUS! lol (great name)
I bought pollyester epoxy and the glass to do the repair. I also bought some stuff called Git Rot. Its supposed to restore rotted plywood. Has anybody worked with this stuff? Does it work? It looks and sounds good. Well, Im off to the lake. DAMN ITS HOT! 102 right now. Ed On 28 Jul 2003 16:45:49 GMT, Ignoramus31468 wrote: Here's what I did: 1) Removed old floor 2) Bought regular 3/4" plywood (not exterior grade, not pressure treated, not marine grade). 3) Soaked it in epoxy. 4) Applied 2 layers of fiberglass on top 5) glued it in. I expect that piece to last longer than the boat. i In article , wrote: Thanks alot for the info and assistance. Still not sure on the type of apoxxy to use ot if I should try to glass it in. New to this type of work but I'm not afraid of trying anything. Thanks again. Ed On 24 Jul 2003 15:51:27 GMT, (Gould 0738) wrote: From the day I was hoodwinked into buying this boat I've had some problems. Never buy a boat from a good looking woman in a bikini. Or anything else. (non-related story follows).. About 25 years ago, we had a guy running a waterbed store around here. Most of the customers were single guys. All of the salespeople were nicely stacked, provocatively dressed young ladies. The atmosphere in the showroom was private and seductive. The same waterbeds that were selling elsewhere for $149, were flying out the door as fast as the guy could stock them at $500 a pop. (That would be like, maybe, $1500 in 2003). Turns out that the primary sales technique involved standing an inch or two away from the prospect, and along with a strategic wink, wiggle, jiggle, and brushback of the hair a promise to "personally deliver your new waterbed and make sure you're completely satisfied." Delivery day would come around, and the customers would leap to the sound of the doorbell only to discover the saleslady, (dressed in overalls), and two 350-pound grumpy male truckdrivers delivering his waterbed. They'd take an hour to set up the frame and fill the mattress with water, and then the saleslady would get the guy to sign a statement that he was completely satisfied with the delivery and set up! They finally shut the guy down under some kind of consumer protection law. False advertising or something. Pretty funny, really. As far as the floor rot: Im thinking of ripping 2" strips of pressure treated around the skiframe and using appoxy and fiberslass so give it strength. That's a technique called "sistering". Putting a good chunk of wood next to a compromised member. Commonly done with frames on older wooden boats, but you have to make sure you're killed all the rot spores in the bad wood or the problem will spread like a determined cancer. Im not certain I can get all of the rotten floor up without taking the entire floor up. .It only looks rotted for a about 2 inches around the ski hole. Is there any way to seal rotten plywood? Once plywood goes bad it starts delaminating. You will probably never catch up to the problem with any sort of sealer or miracle cure. Yanking it out and replacing it would be the best bet. Im thinking if I can get to solid wood by using a dremmel I can get a pretty good hold on it by filling in the bad parts with appoxy. Im not concerned about the cosmetices because the floor will be recovered with carpet and the frame will be under the floor. You will want to go well beyond the most obviously rotted wood when you pull the old stuff out. Pull out the rot, and some of the "still looks good" wood immediately next to it. It's the only way to be sure you are really fixing the problem. The carpet was probably a major contributor to your problem. Wet carpets on plywood floors are a good combination for promoting rot. My plan would be to build the frame in 2 peices, glass or resen the 2" frame before I put it in. then, screw the frame in place under the ski hole and appoxy the crap out of it and putting glass around the edges to seal it to the rest of the good floor. I'm unclear about whether you plan to completely remove the present rot or just reinforce the rotten floor with new framework. Get the rot out of there, whatever you do. Should I use marine plywood? Is it the same as pressure treated plywood? Marine plywood is not the same as pressure treated plywood. Marine ply will not have any voids or "blows" in the laminations, but pressure treated ply is likely to have some. Marine ply will use waterproof glues, and most exterior plywoods will also use waterproof glue. Anybody onboard your boat in bare feet? Yes? Stay away from most pressure treated wood. Arsenic is harmful to children and other living things. That saoking wet carpet could eventually have a scary arsenic content if laid over pressure treated plywood. You can "get by" with exterior ply, if getting by is good enough. You would use marine ply for a better and more permanent fix. |
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