"Harry Krause" wrote ...
And it would make a great anti-smoker device, too.

Quite possibly... But then again, so would the typical spray can of ether,
right?

My husband & I purchased a little Sea Ray Searayder a couple
of years ago

A friend of mine has one and he had trouble starting because the choke linage
was messed up. Check it out....Larry Hill

Makes no sense. Oil and gas are mixed prior to the carbs so any oil that
gets to the cylinders has the right amount of gas in them. Hard to crank
would mean the fuel in the carbs is running out and you need to reprime
prior to starting. Only way to get too much oil is to run the fuel tank dry
or disconnect the fuel line and run. This will pump oil into the system
w/out any gas.

--
Tony
My boats and autos - http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com



"Grumman-581" wrote in message
...
"Tony Thomas" wrote ...
I really don't recommend this for an outboard type engine. Alluminum
pistons
don't like it as they tend to meld down from the excessive heat
generated.
Plus, once you burn the either, the engine still dies because there is
no
fuel.

I have a problem with my cylinders getting flooded with 2-cycle oil when I
leave the engine sitting up for any period of time, so a couple of shots
of
ether allow me to burn off the oil and get gas into the engine... I wonder
if an atomized spray of gasoline would work just as well... Perhaps one of
the Misty Cool type of nozzles connected to a small container of gasoline
that could be pressurized... If this would work, it sure would solve the
problem of possibly being offshore and running out of ether...

"Tony Thomas" wrote ...
It is the pressure in the tank - not the battery. Does your tank not have
a
vent?

From what I've been able to figure out of the system, pressure is introduced
into the tank to force (pump) the oil into the small gravity feed header
tank that sits above the engine... I don't know what is supposed to release
this pressure after the engine is turned off... Since I wasn't sure if there
was some sort of electrical pump involved, I also removed the positive lead
from the battery... The boat is a 1998 Sugar Sand Mirage with a Mercury 175
hp SportJet engine in it...

Since I wasn't sure if there
was some sort of electrical pump involved, I also removed the positive lead
from the battery... The boat is a 1998 Sugar Sand Mirage with a Mercury 175
hp SportJet engine in it...

Call Mercury tech support...They are very helpfull.
Larry Hill

Because the Rayder is considered by the USCG as an "Inboard" boat, it
is not legal for the manufacturer to install a primer bulb which may
split in its old age and leak gas into the hull causing an explosion
(and ensuing litigations from any survivors).

That said, I own a 1997 Sea Rayder F16XR2 16' jetboat with the Merc
V-6 175hp carbureated powerhead on it. Merc's engineers snuck past
the beancounters trying to see how cheap they could make the 3-cyl and
4-cyl Sport Jets with the cheap Force engines in them and added an
electric fuel pump to the fuel line which IS legal. This pump simply
runs off the DC fed to the starter motor so it only runs as you're
grinding away with the Lexus-priced starter motor trying to get the
carbs to fill up with fuel. So, I modified mine by unwiring it from
the starter circuit (the + lead) and ran that lead up to a little red
horn button up under the dash out of the salt spray right by the
throttle/shift lever. To "prime" (fill the carbs with gas so it will
start) the engine, I simply push the button and listen to the little
electric pump pulsing away until I hear it slow down, indicating the
fuel has filled the carb float bowls and the floats have closed off
the fuel valve in them. The engine starts instantly on its automatic
enrichment system (no more chokes). No waiting for the pump to fill
the carbs while the amazingly expensive starter is grinding away is
necessary. The other side of the pushbutton goes to a fused +12V
battery lead.

This arrangement has another "feature". If the fuel pump ever fails
on the motor, I can simply push the button to keep the fuel flowing as
we motor home....(c;

Now, you COULD go down to your Merc dealer and order this little pump
for the 175hp V-6 Sport Jet. It will install on any flat, vertical
surface. Just cut the hose to the tank and splice it in. It has
5/16" hose barbs already on it. Use stainless hose clamps. The
little red horn button is at any boat dealer that sells horns for a
few bucks. An inline blade fuse to make it safe and the in-line
holder come from Radio Shack. Use a 3A fuse.

Cheaper, but not legal but who cares, you could cut the hose where the
fuel is going UPHILL so the ball valves in the primer bulb will seat
properly and just go to WalMart's boat department and buy the outboard
motor primer bulb and pump the gas in there by hand. I like primer
bulbs because they are the most fantastic fuel system troubleshooting
aid ever invented. With a primer bulb (I have one on mine, also), you
can pump fuel into the carb and FEEL the float valves closing. Once
the valves close, you can squeeze the bulb and FEEL that it stays hard
without you being able to squeeze it together. That will let you KNOW
the fuel pump diaphram ISN'T ripped open and nothing is leaking from
the bulb to the carb. If you pump the bulb and it STAYS collapsed and
doesn't refill, you know you forgot to open the fuel tank valve, or
the fuel filter in the tank is all clogged up not allowing the bulb to
suck gas out of the tank. If the boat stalls and you see the bulb is
collapsed, you can easily note the fuel between the tank and the bulb
is clogged.....see how easy that is? If the fuel pump fails, you can
assign a passenger hand-pumping duties on the bulb to act as an
emergency fuel pump to get back home without a tow. I like primer
bulbs....even on jetboats.

Either way, you don't HAVE to grind away on that Lexus-priced starter
motor until the battery's dead. It really needed a primer from the
first day they built it.....idiots.

While you're at WalMart's boat department, do it another great favor
and buy the $20 fuel filter/water separator Wally sells for outboard
boats with the spin-on replaceable filter. You'll have to stop by a
hardware store to get adapters to go from the pipe threads on the
filter to hose barbs for the gas hose. Just cut the hose where you
want the filter mounted, MAKING SURE THERE'S ROOM UNDER THE FILTER TO
CHANGE THE CARTRIDGE and use stainless hose clamps to clamp the gas
hose to the hose barbs. Every year at the beginning of the season,
change the cartridge before trying to prime the boat for the first
time.

As your 90 hp Jet has PREMIXED fuel (TC-W3 2-cycle oil mixed in with
the gas) make sure you drive it around a while before priming the
engine to re-mix the oil with the gas before you start it.... I use 1
quart of Texaco or Exxon TC-W3 for every 10 gallons of gas....40:1
mixture....in mine. After hundreds of hours, this lubrication works
so well you can still see the hone marks on the cylinder walls inside
the cylinders. The engine MUST smoke a little to indicate oil is
getting up into the cylinders having oiled those amazingly-expensive
crankcase bearings. No smoke in a 2-stroke engine is suicide!



On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 22:19:28 -0400, "Ragdoll"
wrote:


Although Boatriger's post seems to suggest that there is no 'bulb', we'll
certainly look for one, anyway. I've read about the 'pumping' on some
info for outboards. My darling husband pointed out that this is a 120hp,
not a 90hp, but I seriously doubt that's relevant. This little boat is
basically a big, fat waverunner. ;-) Thanks so much for your time.
We really appreciate the response!

Rags



Larry W4CSC

"No, NO, Mr Spock! I said beam me down a WRENCH,
not a WENCH! KIRK OUT!"