Another deal deal has gone south for me as the local Johnson guru is swamped
with work and can't look at my new/used motor. I picked up a 1986 100hp
Johnson V4 J100WTCDR I've ordered the books and have some knowledge from
working on an old Mercury 850E that died last years at a tender 31 years
old.

The Johnson guru was adamant about taking out the oil injection and
premixing the fuel oil which isn't a problem for me after doing it so many
years with the old Mercury. I've found what looks like the solution for the
problem with a OMC fuel pump #8402 which is suggested at
http://outboardparts.com/omc/mall/dynamic-results2.asp is there anything
else that needs to be done to take out the VRO system such as the oil level
sensor?

As far as I know the carbs need to be rebuilt, replace the fuel pump with or
without the VRO, change out the thermostats and install a new water pump.
Along with the books I ordered I should be able to pull this off under $500
with $300 invested in the motor so far.

Thanks
Mick

I would remove the VRO on that old of an engine also. I would suggest an
electric fuel pump instead of the engine vacuum pump. Wire to ignition and
your good to go. No more pumping the bubble. Just make sure you get one
that has a regulator that can be adjusted to 5 psi. Holley makes a good one
that is called the Holley Blue that all the racers use. Cost is $105.88 at
www.summitracing.com

--
Tony
my boats at http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com



"Mickey" wrote in message
news:FsO5c.11535$uh.1987@fed1read02...
Another deal deal has gone south for me as the local Johnson guru is
swamped
with work and can't look at my new/used motor. I picked up a 1986 100hp
Johnson V4 J100WTCDR I've ordered the books and have some knowledge from
working on an old Mercury 850E that died last years at a tender 31 years
old.

The Johnson guru was adamant about taking out the oil injection and
premixing the fuel oil which isn't a problem for me after doing it so many
years with the old Mercury. I've found what looks like the solution for
the
problem with a OMC fuel pump #8402 which is suggested at
http://outboardparts.com/omc/mall/dynamic-results2.asp is there anything
else that needs to be done to take out the VRO system such as the oil
level
sensor?

As far as I know the carbs need to be rebuilt, replace the fuel pump with
or
without the VRO, change out the thermostats and install a new water pump.
Along with the books I ordered I should be able to pull this off under
$500
with $300 invested in the motor so far.

Thanks
Mick

anything
else that needs to be done to take out the VRO system such as the oil level
sensor?

Mick.... The following should make it a little easier on yourself.

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In
my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they
were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating
as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced
plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO
decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big
problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of
being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel
more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their
own.

********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil
tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by
doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO
pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the
VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two
wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have.
Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel
exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel
hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have
the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that
you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound
off.

Joe Reeves

Joe,

Glad you're still around. You ARE appreciated in this newsgroup!

-Jim

ReevesJ32 wrote:

Absolutely excellent advise!!!!

K

anything
else that needs to be done to take out the VRO system such as the oil level
sensor?


Mick.... The following should make it a little easier on yourself.

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In
my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they
were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating
as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced
plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO
decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big
problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of
being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel
more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their
own.

********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil
tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by
doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO
pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the
VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two
wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have.
Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel
exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel
hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have
the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that
you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound
off.

Joe Reeves