In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.

If you are buying a new trailer to begin with - definetly get the brakes and
your right on the disk surge.
If it is used, I personally would not worry about towing that much weight
without brakes. Just be careful and make sure you have plenty of room to
stop. However, I think you may be under-estimating the trailer weight.
Probably more in the 500 to 700 lb range. Tires, axles, and all that steal
weight quite a bit.

--
Tony
My boats and autos - http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com



"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.

"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My tandem axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping distance and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago, and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy if in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water when
done.
Bill

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My tandem axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping distance and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago, and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy if in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

"John H" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or
so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing
capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new
galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My tandem
axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping distance
and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago,
and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy if
in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I run Kodiak brakes. I got them at Century Wheel and Rim. Century has
distribution warehouses around the country. Google them for your closest
location. I run the E-coated caliper and rotor, but they now have
stainless.
Bill

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:55:26 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or
so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing
capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new
galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My tandem
axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping distance
and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago,
and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy if
in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I run Kodiak brakes. I got them at Century Wheel and Rim. Century has
distribution warehouses around the country. Google them for your closest
location. I run the E-coated caliper and rotor, but they now have
stainless.
Bill

That was fast! Thanks much. Did you do the work yourself? If so, how
difficult was the job.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

"John H" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:55:26 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds
1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300
or
so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing
capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new
galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to
go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My
tandem
axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting
in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping
distance
and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow
down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago,
and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy
if
in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water
when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I run Kodiak brakes. I got them at Century Wheel and Rim. Century has
distribution warehouses around the country. Google them for your closest
location. I run the E-coated caliper and rotor, but they now have
stainless.
Bill

That was fast! Thanks much. Did you do the work yourself? If so, how
difficult was the job.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

Took me maybe 4 hours total. That was because I went to buy another master
cylinder as the original was rusty when I went to remove the residual valve.
Since then I replaced the coupler with a Dico from champion trailers and
came complete for disk brakes. Coupler was bad not MC. Changing the drums
to disk is simple. Remove the drum backing plate assy just like replacing
drums. The caliper bracket bolts up with the same 4 bolt holes that the
backing assy bolts to. Then install the rotors, just like a drum, and
install the calipers with the 2 bolts supplied. Bleed brakes. Go boating.
You have to install a backup solenoid valve if you do not want to manually
lock the coupler when backing. 2 different types, One just blocks the line
and just goes inline to the brake line. Other feeds the fluid back to the
MC reservoir. Takes a few minutes to drill and tap the MC. If your tow
vehicle is newer, just go to a Reese hitch seller and buy a 5 wire
connector. The Solenoid hooks up to the backup light circuit which is the
5th hole on the connector.
Bill

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 21:16:42 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:55:26 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
news On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds
1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300
or
so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing
capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new
galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to
go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My
tandem
axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting
in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping
distance
and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow
down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago,
and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy
if
in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water
when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I run Kodiak brakes. I got them at Century Wheel and Rim. Century has
distribution warehouses around the country. Google them for your closest
location. I run the E-coated caliper and rotor, but they now have
stainless.
Bill

That was fast! Thanks much. Did you do the work yourself? If so, how
difficult was the job.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

Took me maybe 4 hours total. That was because I went to buy another master
cylinder as the original was rusty when I went to remove the residual valve.
Since then I replaced the coupler with a Dico from champion trailers and
came complete for disk brakes. Coupler was bad not MC. Changing the drums
to disk is simple. Remove the drum backing plate assy just like replacing
drums. The caliper bracket bolts up with the same 4 bolt holes that the
backing assy bolts to. Then install the rotors, just like a drum, and
install the calipers with the 2 bolts supplied. Bleed brakes. Go boating.
You have to install a backup solenoid valve if you do not want to manually
lock the coupler when backing. 2 different types, One just blocks the line
and just goes inline to the brake line. Other feeds the fluid back to the
MC reservoir. Takes a few minutes to drill and tap the MC. If your tow
vehicle is newer, just go to a Reese hitch seller and buy a 5 wire
connector. The Solenoid hooks up to the backup light circuit which is the
5th hole on the connector.
Bill


Thanks, Bill.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I'd have to say it depends on how far you're going and if you're boating in
salt water or fresh. I'm thinking you're not going to be happy going any
great distance with a minivan towing. No brake system is impervious to salt
water and if you're just running a few miles to the local ramp I'd skip the
brakes. Or if you have access to a higher capacity tow vehicle that coule
be a reason to not put brakes on the trailer even if you are going farther.
Just leave extra stopping room.

"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 14:33:31 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:

~~ snippage ~~

That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.

Good idea.

I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.

Yes. Just be aware of the fact that on certain trailer surge braking
systems, the backup system is done by a solenoid releasing pressure on
the braking system when the backup lights come on (there is also a
mechanical lockout, but that requires you to get out, put the lockout
on, etc. PITA). You will need a five wire system for specifically
that reason. Otherwise when you back up, the surge actuator presses
against the diaphram and you won't go no where.

As to the trailer, regardless of how big the trailer is, get rollers
instead of bunks. It will save your back. It's the one thing I hate
about my Ranger center cosole - those stupid bunks.

Good luck.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT
-----------
"Angling may be said to be so
like the mathematics that it
can never be fully learnt..."

Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653