In spite of what the local dealers say about not needing brakes on a
boat/trailer combined weight of approx. 1800 lbs.,
I've decided to pony up and get them on a new galvanized trailer for piece
of mind.
I had decided on surge type stainless steel disc brakes due to a salt
water/air environment.
Then I visit the Champion Trailer site and see they recommend the drum
brakes for lighter loads
see http://www.championtrailers.com/Drum...BrakeArtcl.htm
Seems the drums work better on the lower hydraulic pressure generated by a
lighter mass.
I understand you can get galvanized brake parts and an optional fresh water
washdown kit.
This may be the way to go....I think!

That sure makes sense to me. I have discs on my tandom for a Rinker 212 and
they work good. I had NO brakes on my old 18' Rinker V-180 prior and it
took some work to stop it sometimes. So I would not recommend NOT having
brakes.

Knowing how brakes work, I tend to say that what they say is correct. You
don't need a lot of help, just some extra to even up the stopping load and
not forcing it all to the tow vehicle.

Steve L.


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In spite of what the local dealers say about not needing brakes on a
boat/trailer combined weight of approx. 1800 lbs.,
I've decided to pony up and get them on a new galvanized trailer for piece
of mind.
I had decided on surge type stainless steel disc brakes due to a salt
water/air environment.
Then I visit the Champion Trailer site and see they recommend the drum
brakes for lighter loads
see http://www.championtrailers.com/Drum...BrakeArtcl.htm
Seems the drums work better on the lower hydraulic pressure generated by a
lighter mass.
I understand you can get galvanized brake parts and an optional fresh
water
washdown kit.
This may be the way to go....I think!

On Sun, 28 Mar 2004 05:22:02 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:

~~ snippage ~~

I understand you can get galvanized brake parts and an optional fresh water
washdown kit.
This may be the way to go....I think!

Definetly get the optional fresh water washdown - it's a must. I have
one that I designed and installed myself on my Ranger - saves time and
it works great.

Can't speak to the galvanized brake parts.

Later,

Tom

On Sun, 28 Mar 2004 05:22:02 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:

In spite of what the local dealers say about not needing brakes on a
boat/trailer combined weight of approx. 1800 lbs.,
I've decided to pony up and get them on a new galvanized trailer for piece
of mind.
I had decided on surge type stainless steel disc brakes due to a salt
water/air environment.
Then I visit the Champion Trailer site and see they recommend the drum
brakes for lighter loads
see http://www.championtrailers.com/Drum...BrakeArtcl.htm
Seems the drums work better on the lower hydraulic pressure generated by a
lighter mass.
I understand you can get galvanized brake parts and an optional fresh water
washdown kit.
This may be the way to go....I think!


Not to be nosy, but here is an extract from your site:

"If the rate of deceleration was maintained at original values & the
mass of the trailer is increased, the differential pressure will be
increased & the hydraulic output pressure will again be increased
resulting in an increase in braking response.

Therefore, at a given rate of deceleration, a more heavily loaded
trailer will have a greater differential pressure between itself & the
tow vehicle, than a lighter trailer, & therefore the hydraulic
pressure from the surge brake coupler will be higher for a heavier
trailer than the more lightly loaded trailer."

I don't disagree with the fact that the hydraulic pressure on the
brake cylinders would increase with greater gross trailer weights. My
point would be that with a lighter trailer *less* braking is required
to slow the trailer, and therefore the lower hydraulic pressure would
be inconsequential.

Might be food for thought.

I'm going through much of the same angst you are. My trailer needs new
brakes, and I can't decide what to do (other than not trailer the
boat).

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

Please get the drum brakes. As stated before, you don't need much braking.
The drums are a pain in the but. The drum brakes on my last boat were
nothing but a pain. I used it strictly in fresh water and still had
problems w/ adjusting, heat buildup into the bearings, and grease getting
onto the drums. Ask anyone who has had drums and they will tell you to go
w/ disks.

--
Tony
my boats at http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com



"Don White" wrote in message
...
In spite of what the local dealers say about not needing brakes on a
boat/trailer combined weight of approx. 1800 lbs.,
I've decided to pony up and get them on a new galvanized trailer for piece
of mind.
I had decided on surge type stainless steel disc brakes due to a salt
water/air environment.
Then I visit the Champion Trailer site and see they recommend the drum
brakes for lighter loads
see http://www.championtrailers.com/Drum...BrakeArtcl.htm
Seems the drums work better on the lower hydraulic pressure generated by a
lighter mass.
I understand you can get galvanized brake parts and an optional fresh
water
washdown kit.
This may be the way to go....I think!

Sorry - meant to say DISK BRAKES. You don't want drum.

--
Tony
my boats at http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com



"Tony Thomas" wrote in message
news:exB9c.115159$1p.1555791@attbi_s54...
Please get the drum brakes. As stated before, you don't need much
braking.
The drums are a pain in the but. The drum brakes on my last boat were
nothing but a pain. I used it strictly in fresh water and still had
problems w/ adjusting, heat buildup into the bearings, and grease getting
onto the drums. Ask anyone who has had drums and they will tell you to go
w/ disks.

--
Tony
my boats at http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com



"Don White" wrote in message
...
In spite of what the local dealers say about not needing brakes on a
boat/trailer combined weight of approx. 1800 lbs.,
I've decided to pony up and get them on a new galvanized trailer for
piece
of mind.
I had decided on surge type stainless steel disc brakes due to a salt
water/air environment.
Then I visit the Champion Trailer site and see they recommend the drum
brakes for lighter loads
see http://www.championtrailers.com/Drum...BrakeArtcl.htm
Seems the drums work better on the lower hydraulic pressure generated by
a
lighter mass.
I understand you can get galvanized brake parts and an optional fresh
water
washdown kit.
This may be the way to go....I think!

Tony Sez:The drum brakes on my last boat were
nothing but a pain. I used it strictly in fresh water and still had
problems w/ adjusting, heat buildup into the bearings, and grease getting
onto the drums


Heat build up and grease getting into the drums (or anywhere else) indicate
poor maint. Don't get carried away with the grease gun when lubing the
bearings. Pull the hubs down frequently and change out the bearings and inner
seals.
Discs are probably better in terms of cleaning but have tbls of their own
(backing down the ramp while hot cause the discs to assume shapes not
envisioned by the builder!)
Best wishes
Mike

"John H" wrote in message
news
Therefore, at a given rate of deceleration, a more heavily loaded
trailer will have a greater differential pressure between itself & the
tow vehicle, than a lighter trailer, & therefore the hydraulic
pressure from the surge brake coupler will be higher for a heavier
trailer than the more lightly loaded trailer."


This is just another way of saying that surge brakes are a "negative
feedback" system: the more the trailer weighs, the more it pushes on the
tow vehicle during deceleration, which in turn creates a greater hydraulic
pressure which applies the trailer brakes harder.

In other words, it is self compensating. The trailer brakes work reasonably
well when the boat is floating on the lake and you are running the trailer
around the parking lot. It works just fine with the boat on the trailer as
intended. It still works good when you have just loaded the rig up with ice
chests, camping gear, full load of gas, tools, etc., etc., etc.


The size of the brake shoes, wheel cylinders and master cylinder needs to be
selected based on the total gross weight of the trailer, but the system is
very forgiving.

Rod