Have a 1973 Johnson 115v4. She had a intermitted starting problem.
Replaced Starter and Solonoid
Last year we had the carbs rebuilt.

When shes running.. She runs great, smooth all that.. Its starting
thats the main problem.

Starting- If the battery is fully maxed on charge it will start. but
it has to be a really fresh new battery or maybe a 2nd. But when we
try to start it on the lake with a less than 100% fresh battery (say
90%).. It wont start unless we wait awhile or we connect a jumper. I
have sprayed starter fliud at these moments when it wont fire and
nothing. . I can pull a plug andits either weak or no fire. Last
season we connected 2 batterys together. This worked for awhile.. it
would start every time for a time. Now thats not working. And
sometimes now not even jumping isstarting it.

I was told by a shop mechanic its most likely a weak stator. And this
has the symptoms of that because it requires high cranking RPM for the
plugs to show fire.

Also been told it could be the power pack.


So Far my plan is to replace the stator to start with. Any way I can
test the power pack? I have a multimeter and some other tools.

Thanks

wrote:
Have a 1973 Johnson 115v4. She had a intermitted starting problem.
Replaced Starter and Solonoid
Last year we had the carbs rebuilt.

When shes running.. She runs great, smooth all that.. Its starting
thats the main problem.

Starting- If the battery is fully maxed on charge it will start. but
it has to be a really fresh new battery or maybe a 2nd. But when we
try to start it on the lake with a less than 100% fresh battery (say
90%).. It wont start unless we wait awhile or we connect a jumper. I
have sprayed starter fliud at these moments when it wont fire and
nothing. . I can pull a plug andits either weak or no fire. Last
season we connected 2 batterys together. This worked for awhile.. it
would start every time for a time. Now thats not working. And
sometimes now not even jumping isstarting it.

I was told by a shop mechanic its most likely a weak stator. And this
has the symptoms of that because it requires high cranking RPM for the
plugs to show fire.

Also been told it could be the power pack.


So Far my plan is to replace the stator to start with. Any way I can
test the power pack? I have a multimeter and some other tools.

Thanks



Before you go taking this all apart, check the resistance of the
sensor coils. Disconnect the leads (they are Black w/White & White
w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 & #12 of the power pack. They
should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to ground (~ ohms). The charge
coils are tested by checking the resistance of the brown & brown/yellow
leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700 ohms, and again no shorts to ground.

I have not seen the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much as
the power packs. The power packs are available from NAPA or Sierra as
#18-5753 (needed for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the
hardware, #18-5756 w/o the hardware. If one or both of the sensors is
faulty, the timer base needs to be replaced, this is seperate from the
stator/charge coil assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft. lbs.

What we've seen is that the power pack warms up in the sun while the
cover/hood is off, starting the engine and running fine, until the next
cold start. Replacing the pack usually does the trick. Be sure EVERY
screw and terminal is clean and tight before re-attaching the battery to
the outboard.


Good Luck!

Rob

Rob,

Thanks for the helpful post. I am going to go to the marina today and
measure the resistance of the sensor coils. Good idea as if I dont
have to replace the stator it would save some time and work no doubt.

I tried NAPA website for that parts lookup and it didnt come up. Do
they have a marine parts listing somewhere? I guess I should call them
huh?

Again thanks tons for the help
-Nathan

On Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:08:58 -0400, trainfan1
wrote:

wrote:
Have a 1973 Johnson 115v4. She had a intermitted starting problem.
Replaced Starter and Solonoid
Last year we had the carbs rebuilt.

When shes running.. She runs great, smooth all that.. Its starting
thats the main problem.

Starting- If the battery is fully maxed on charge it will start. but
it has to be a really fresh new battery or maybe a 2nd. But when we
try to start it on the lake with a less than 100% fresh battery (say
90%).. It wont start unless we wait awhile or we connect a jumper. I
have sprayed starter fliud at these moments when it wont fire and
nothing. . I can pull a plug andits either weak or no fire. Last
season we connected 2 batterys together. This worked for awhile.. it
would start every time for a time. Now thats not working. And
sometimes now not even jumping isstarting it.

I was told by a shop mechanic its most likely a weak stator. And this
has the symptoms of that because it requires high cranking RPM for the
plugs to show fire.

Also been told it could be the power pack.


So Far my plan is to replace the stator to start with. Any way I can
test the power pack? I have a multimeter and some other tools.

Thanks



Before you go taking this all apart, check the resistance of the
sensor coils. Disconnect the leads (they are Black w/White & White
w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 & #12 of the power pack. They
should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to ground (~ ohms). The charge
coils are tested by checking the resistance of the brown & brown/yellow
leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700 ohms, and again no shorts to ground.

I have not seen the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much as
the power packs. The power packs are available from NAPA or Sierra as
#18-5753 (needed for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the
hardware, #18-5756 w/o the hardware. If one or both of the sensors is
faulty, the timer base needs to be replaced, this is seperate from the
stator/charge coil assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft. lbs.

What we've seen is that the power pack warms up in the sun while the
cover/hood is off, starting the engine and running fine, until the next
cold start. Replacing the pack usually does the trick. Be sure EVERY
screw and terminal is clean and tight before re-attaching the battery to
the outboard.


Good Luck!

Rob

This happened to me once and it turned out to be the power pack.

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


wrote in message
news
Have a 1973 Johnson 115v4. She had a intermitted starting problem.
Replaced Starter and Solonoid
Last year we had the carbs rebuilt.

When shes running.. She runs great, smooth all that.. Its starting
thats the main problem.

Starting- If the battery is fully maxed on charge it will start. but
it has to be a really fresh new battery or maybe a 2nd. But when we
try to start it on the lake with a less than 100% fresh battery (say
90%).. It wont start unless we wait awhile or we connect a jumper. I
have sprayed starter fliud at these moments when it wont fire and
nothing. . I can pull a plug andits either weak or no fire. Last
season we connected 2 batterys together. This worked for awhile.. it
would start every time for a time. Now thats not working. And
sometimes now not even jumping isstarting it.

I was told by a shop mechanic its most likely a weak stator. And this
has the symptoms of that because it requires high cranking RPM for the
plugs to show fire.

Also been told it could be the power pack.


So Far my plan is to replace the stator to start with. Any way I can
test the power pack? I have a multimeter and some other tools.

Thanks

Nathan,

Perhaps you can search for the parts at Sierra Marine:
http://www.sierramarine.com/Sierra/prodline/index.htm and then search
NAPA for the item number. If you look at a Sierra Marine catalog
and then look at Napa's Marine catalog, it apears that pretty much
the cover's are different and that Sierra's name was swapped for
Napa's. :^) Last year I needed an impellor kit and West Marine
didn't have the part in stock and would take several days to get it,
but the manager pointed out that Napa might have it in stock.
That's how I found out about Seirra/Napa. I appreciated that the
store manager suggested I try NAPA 'cause I didn't was to wait. :^)

-Jim

Try http://www.sierra.com i think thats right they carry a ton of older OMC
parts
In article ,
says...

Rob,

Thanks for the helpful post. I am going to go to the marina today and
measure the resistance of the sensor coils. Good idea as if I dont
have to replace the stator it would save some time and work no doubt.

I tried NAPA website for that parts lookup and it didnt come up. Do
they have a marine parts listing somewhere? I guess I should call them
huh?

Again thanks tons for the help
-Nathan

On Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:08:58 -0400, trainfan1
wrote:

wrote:
Have a 1973 Johnson 115v4. She had a intermitted starting problem.
Replaced Starter and Solonoid
Last year we had the carbs rebuilt.

When shes running.. She runs great, smooth all that.. Its starting
thats the main problem.

Starting- If the battery is fully maxed on charge it will start. but
it has to be a really fresh new battery or maybe a 2nd. But when we
try to start it on the lake with a less than 100% fresh battery (say
90%).. It wont start unless we wait awhile or we connect a jumper. I
have sprayed starter fliud at these moments when it wont fire and
nothing. . I can pull a plug andits either weak or no fire. Last
season we connected 2 batterys together. This worked for awhile.. it
would start every time for a time. Now thats not working. And
sometimes now not even jumping isstarting it.

I was told by a shop mechanic its most likely a weak stator. And this
has the symptoms of that because it requires high cranking RPM for the
plugs to show fire.

Also been told it could be the power pack.


So Far my plan is to replace the stator to start with. Any way I can
test the power pack? I have a multimeter and some other tools.

Thanks



Before you go taking this all apart, check the resistance of the
sensor coils. Disconnect the leads (they are Black w/White & White
w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 & #12 of the power pack. They
should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to ground (~ ohms). The charge
coils are tested by checking the resistance of the brown & brown/yellow
leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700 ohms, and again no shorts to ground.

I have not seen the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much as
the power packs. The power packs are available from NAPA or Sierra as
#18-5753 (needed for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the
hardware, #18-5756 w/o the hardware. If one or both of the sensors is
faulty, the timer base needs to be replaced, this is seperate from the
stator/charge coil assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft. lbs.

What we've seen is that the power pack warms up in the sun while the
cover/hood is off, starting the engine and running fine, until the next
cold start. Replacing the pack usually does the trick. Be sure EVERY
screw and terminal is clean and tight before re-attaching the battery to
the outboard.


Good Luck!

Rob