The full throttle RPM was 4500-4700...

Hope that helps


"Woodchuck" wrote in message
...
What's your present full throttle RPM?

"M.E." wrote in message
...
Hey!

I have a 17' Bowrider (fibreglass) and it has a 140HP I/O Engine. It's
a
1977. I have a 14x19 prop on there right now... I had it up to about
40MPH
and it seems decent at initial acceleration. I'm looking at purchasing
a
second prop for it as a spare but would like to get one to compliment
the
existing one... I'm looking for suggestions on what to purchase... Does
it
have to be a 14" diamater? Are there various hub sizes on the props for
Mercruisers? Any advice would be great!

Thanks,

On Tue, 8 Jul 2003 01:22:09 -0400, "M.E."
wrote:

Hey!

I have a 17' Bowrider (fibreglass) and it has a 140HP I/O Engine. It's a
1977. I have a 14x19 prop on there right now... I had it up to about 40MPH
and it seems decent at initial acceleration. I'm looking at purchasing a
second prop for it as a spare but would like to get one to compliment the
existing one... I'm looking for suggestions on what to purchase... Does it
have to be a 14" diamater? Are there various hub sizes on the props for
Mercruisers? Any advice would be great!

Thanks,

Sorry, but there aren't usually "quick prop answers". )
You *can* use different props for different purposes (I have one prop
for water skiing/tubing, and another for "high speed"). What is
important is to NOT use a prop that allows the engine to exceed the
Wide Open Throttle (WOT) recommendations of the manufacturer, OR drops
the rpms so low that you lug the engine. Follow the WOT range stated
for your engine.

Go to your local dealer, or go online to a reputable prop dealer, and
find the recommended prop for the specific use you have in mind.

Specific to your question: No, it doesn't have to be 14". Match the
prop to the specific outdrive you have: Alpha, Beta, etc. The pitch
of the prop will affect performance more than the diameter.

Good luck,
noah

Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats

Now if you wanted a better prop for skiing then drop down to a 17p, but then
you must watch your RPM so it doesn't exceed the WOT max.


"M.E." wrote in message
...
The full throttle RPM was 4500-4700...

Hope that helps


"Woodchuck" wrote in message
...
What's your present full throttle RPM?

"M.E." wrote in message
...
Hey!

I have a 17' Bowrider (fibreglass) and it has a 140HP I/O Engine.
It's
a
1977. I have a 14x19 prop on there right now... I had it up to about
40MPH
and it seems decent at initial acceleration. I'm looking at
purchasing
a
second prop for it as a spare but would like to get one to compliment
the
existing one... I'm looking for suggestions on what to purchase...
Does
it
have to be a 14" diamater? Are there various hub sizes on the props
for
Mercruisers? Any advice would be great!

Thanks,

I would suggest that you purchase a good SS prop in a 14 x 19 to use as your
main prop. You will gain speed and acceleration by the improvement in blade
design. Then use the current prop as a spare. Look at the Laser II.

Tony

"M.E." wrote in message
...
The full throttle RPM was 4500-4700...

Hope that helps


"Woodchuck" wrote in message
...
What's your present full throttle RPM?

"M.E." wrote in message
...
Hey!

I have a 17' Bowrider (fibreglass) and it has a 140HP I/O Engine.
It's
a
1977. I have a 14x19 prop on there right now... I had it up to about
40MPH
and it seems decent at initial acceleration. I'm looking at
purchasing
a
second prop for it as a spare but would like to get one to compliment
the
existing one... I'm looking for suggestions on what to purchase...
Does
it
have to be a 14" diamater? Are there various hub sizes on the props
for
Mercruisers? Any advice would be great!

Thanks,

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 02:06:01 GMT, "Tony Thomas"
wrote:

I would suggest that you purchase a good SS prop in a 14 x 19 to use as your
main prop. You will gain speed and acceleration by the improvement in blade
design. Then use the current prop as a spare. Look at the Laser II.

Tony


Tony- I have been reluctant to switch to SS props, in spite of the
performance gains, because of concerns about drive damage. I
regularly run local rivers, complete with submerged tree trunks,
rocks, etc., that are rearranged regularly by ice and current.

I have heard from other experienced boaters that the SS props are more
unforgiving, and transfer more shock to the drive if an object is hit.

Any thoughts?
noah


Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats

Not true. The hub in the prop is the weak link. That is what it is
designed for. The SS will hold up to trash and hits without damage to the
prop or anything. A big hit and the prop/hub will probably be destroyed
anyway. Only reason you would damage the gears would be if you hit a large
rock while running w/ the actual gearcase and damaged it. If you just hit
w/ the prop, no damage to the gears/drive should exist.

Tony

"noah" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 02:06:01 GMT, "Tony Thomas"
wrote:

I would suggest that you purchase a good SS prop in a 14 x 19 to use as
your
main prop. You will gain speed and acceleration by the improvement in
blade
design. Then use the current prop as a spare. Look at the Laser II.

Tony


Tony- I have been reluctant to switch to SS props, in spite of the
performance gains, because of concerns about drive damage. I
regularly run local rivers, complete with submerged tree trunks,
rocks, etc., that are rearranged regularly by ice and current.

I have heard from other experienced boaters that the SS props are more
unforgiving, and transfer more shock to the drive if an object is hit.

Any thoughts?
noah


Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats

Tony- I have been reluctant to switch to SS props, in spite of the
performance gains, because of concerns about drive damage. I
regularly run local rivers, complete with submerged tree trunks,
rocks, etc., that are rearranged regularly by ice and current.

I have heard from other experienced boaters that the SS props are more
unforgiving, and transfer more shock to the drive if an object is hit.

Any thoughts?
noah

Old wives tale.

Kinda like Molson Brador being a good beer :-)

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 23:46:29 GMT, "Joe" wrote:


Tony- I have been reluctant to switch to SS props, in spite of the
performance gains, because of concerns about drive damage. I
regularly run local rivers, complete with submerged tree trunks,
rocks, etc., that are rearranged regularly by ice and current.

I have heard from other experienced boaters that the SS props are more
unforgiving, and transfer more shock to the drive if an object is hit.

Any thoughts?
noah

Old wives tale.

Kinda like Molson Brador being a good beer :-)

LOL!!! Thanks, Joe.
noah


Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats

I agree with you Tony, afew years ago I think it was "Boating" mag did
some test where they had a submerged RailRoad tie of somthing just as
formatable sunk. The had it at a depth that would allow only the sked
and the blades to impacked it if I recall. The idea was to see what
happened when it was hit with a Comprop, Aluminum and SS.. A merc drive
was used.

The Comprop lost all it's blades but they could be replaced in short
order. The Aluninum did not do so well and the Stailess held up the best
if memory servers. But it was some time ago I read this.

One of the last comments was they were inpressed that the Merc strn
drive held up with all hits they did with the thing.

Capt Jack R.



Tony Thomas wrote:
Not true. The hub in the prop is the weak link. That is what it is
designed for. The SS will hold up to trash and hits without damage to the
prop or anything. A big hit and the prop/hub will probably be destroyed
anyway. Only reason you would damage the gears would be if you hit a large
rock while running w/ the actual gearcase and damaged it. If you just hit
w/ the prop, no damage to the gears/drive should exist.

Tony

"noah" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 02:06:01 GMT, "Tony Thomas"
wrote:


I would suggest that you purchase a good SS prop in a 14 x 19 to use as

your

main prop. You will gain speed and acceleration by the improvement in

blade

design. Then use the current prop as a spare. Look at the Laser II.

Tony


Tony- I have been reluctant to switch to SS props, in spite of the
performance gains, because of concerns about drive damage. I
regularly run local rivers, complete with submerged tree trunks,
rocks, etc., that are rearranged regularly by ice and current.

I have heard from other experienced boaters that the SS props are more
unforgiving, and transfer more shock to the drive if an object is hit.

Any thoughts?
noah


Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats

Your laser II has a rubber hub inside it. The hub will spin if you hit
something.
While true that at 3200 rpm you only loose 1 mph, if the props are the same
size the hole shot is completely different and top speed is completely
different. Also, my guess is your minimum plane speed is lower w/ the SS
prop.


--
Tony
my boats and autos - http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com


"Ed Hale" wrote in message
...
Not wanting to create a major problem here, but the Laser II does not
have a slipping hub, if that is what you are talking about. I have one
and if you hit something with just a blade, you will probably bend the
drive shaft. Try the expense of that sucker.

Personally I use a composite prop for river cruising. At normal cruise
speed of 3200 rpm I only lost 1 mph vs my Laser II SS and if I ding a
blande on a floating something, it only costs me $20 and I can fix in on
the water in 5 minutes or less.

If you want performance, get a SS, but be prepared for very expensive
outdrive repair if you do hit something.

Captain Ed
Searay 190, 5.0 EFI

Tony Thomas wrote:
Not true. The hub in the prop is the weak link. That is what it is
designed for. The SS will hold up to trash and hits without damage to
the
prop or anything. A big hit and the prop/hub will probably be destroyed
anyway. Only reason you would damage the gears would be if you hit a
large
rock while running w/ the actual gearcase and damaged it. If you just
hit
w/ the prop, no damage to the gears/drive should exist.

Tony

"noah" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 02:06:01 GMT, "Tony Thomas"
wrote:


I would suggest that you purchase a good SS prop in a 14 x 19 to use as

your

main prop. You will gain speed and acceleration by the improvement in

blade

design. Then use the current prop as a spare. Look at the Laser II.

Tony


Tony- I have been reluctant to switch to SS props, in spite of the
performance gains, because of concerns about drive damage. I
regularly run local rivers, complete with submerged tree trunks,
rocks, etc., that are rearranged regularly by ice and current.

I have heard from other experienced boaters that the SS props are more
unforgiving, and transfer more shock to the drive if an object is hit.

Any thoughts?
noah


Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats