Tamaroak wrote:
I'm going to take my Cummins turbo-diesel powered trawler on the Great
Loop next summer, meaning I will be in some warm places where things
might grow in my tanks. I also read all sorts of ads indicating I need
stuff in my fuel to clean injectors, increase cetane, clean carbon,
reduce wear, increase mileage, etc.

Is any of this true? What do I really need to add to my fuel?


The best guys to ask would be the engineers at Cummins. A turbo diesel
is a little more sensitive than the old fashioned heavy haulers.

My own theory (and experience so far bears this out) that good storage
practice & good filtering prevent any problems. One of the key
differences between diesel & gasoline is that gas is a solvent, diesel
is a lubricant. If you add biocide, you're just negating some of the
natural properties of the fuel and putting crud in it that your engine
won't like.

If you add other magic potions that "break up" impurities in the fuel so
that it goes thru youor filters, then it goes thru your injector pump &
injectors... and they won't like it. Sur eit saves the work of changing
the filters, but which is more work & money, changing filters or
rebuilding injector pumps & replacing injectors?

We're plannning on doing the Loop in a few years. Should be a lot of fun!

Fair Skies
Doug King

Sorta agree with the others. Additives are generally not useful.

Having said that, a biocide can save you some serious problems. I've seen
diesel fuel contaminated by "grass" and the resulting fuel system problems.
It's not a pretty sight.

As suggested, contact Cummins and get a qualified opinion.

Butch
"Shortwave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:54:43 -0400, DSK wrote:

Tamaroak wrote:
I'm going to take my Cummins turbo-diesel powered trawler on the Great
Loop next summer, meaning I will be in some warm places where things
might grow in my tanks. I also read all sorts of ads indicating I need
stuff in my fuel to clean injectors, increase cetane, clean carbon,
reduce wear, increase mileage, etc.

Is any of this true? What do I really need to add to my fuel?


The best guys to ask would be the engineers at Cummins. A turbo diesel
is a little more sensitive than the old fashioned heavy haulers.

My own theory (and experience so far bears this out) that good storage
practice & good filtering prevent any problems. One of the key
differences between diesel & gasoline is that gas is a solvent, diesel
is a lubricant. If you add biocide, you're just negating some of the
natural properties of the fuel and putting crud in it that your engine
won't like.

If you add other magic potions that "break up" impurities in the fuel so
that it goes thru youor filters, then it goes thru your injector pump &
injectors... and they won't like it. Sur eit saves the work of changing
the filters, but which is more work & money, changing filters or
rebuilding injector pumps & replacing injectors?

We're plannning on doing the Loop in a few years. Should be a lot of fun!

I agree with Doug on this one, although I confess I don't own a marine
diesel - truck currently and a truck and turbo diesel tractor which
didn't see a lot of use a few years ago.

The only "additive" I use is a Cetane booster which improves my
mileage in my truck (7.3 International Turbo Ford F-250) and I used it
in my International Turbo Diesel Super M when I owned it.

Oddly, I never noticed any bio buildup in the tractor tank even when
it sat still for eight months one time for various reasons.

When I first got my boat, I shocked the fuel system with Soltron, then
had it polished. Have used Soltron for the last 5 years with great
success. Developed a tiny leak from a tank seam awhile back. Opened the
tank and coated the inside... there was almost no slime in there, just
some stuff on the bottom of the tank that looked like rust that had
fallen from the top where the diesel almost never sloshes. The only
other thing I add is 1 Qt. of Marvel Mystery oil per 100 gallons of
diesel at fillup. This is per Bob Smith's recommendation over at
American Diesel. He says this makes up for the lower lubricity of the
new lower sulfur diesel fuels. Will help keep your injector pump from
wearing out prematurely.

You can read about Soltron at: http://www.navstore.com/Soltron.asp but
you can buy it at West Marine, etc. now... Starbrite has the retail
distribution rights. It's an enzymatic treatment, NOT just a biocide.

No commercial connections, just a happy customer.

I'm going to take my Cummins turbo-diesel powered trawler on the Great
Loop next summer, meaning I will be in some warm places where things
might grow in my tanks. I also read all sorts of ads indicating I need
stuff in my fuel to clean injectors, increase cetane, clean carbon,
reduce wear, increase mileage, etc.

Is any of this true? What do I really need to add to my fuel?

Capt. Jeff

2 micron filter elements in the Racor, changed every 100 hours. No
additives, no problems. Cheers, Dick B. M/V "Annie" (with 150 Turbo
Cummins).


"Tamaroak" wrote in message
...
I'm going to take my Cummins turbo-diesel powered trawler on the Great
Loop next summer, meaning I will be in some warm places where things might
grow in my tanks. I also read all sorts of ads indicating I need stuff in
my fuel to clean injectors, increase cetane, clean carbon, reduce wear,
increase mileage, etc.

Is any of this true? What do I really need to add to my fuel?

Capt. Jeff

Keith wrote:
When I first got my boat, I shocked the fuel system with Soltron, then
had it polished. Have used Soltron for the last 5 years with great
success. Developed a tiny leak from a tank seam awhile back. Opened the
tank and coated the inside... there was almost no slime in there, just
some stuff on the bottom of the tank that looked like rust that had
fallen from the top where the diesel almost never sloshes. The only
other thing I add is 1 Qt. of Marvel Mystery oil per 100 gallons of
diesel at fillup. This is per Bob Smith's recommendation over at
American Diesel. He says this makes up for the lower lubricity of the
new lower sulfur diesel fuels. Will help keep your injector pump from
wearing out prematurely.

You can read about Soltron at: http://www.navstore.com/Soltron.asp but
you can buy it at West Marine, etc. now... Starbrite has the retail
distribution rights. It's an enzymatic treatment, NOT just a biocide.

No commercial connections, just a happy customer.

I use Soltron as well.

In my experience, it cuts down on the amount of visible smoke in the
exhaust.

A trawler will probably burn the fuel fast enough for it to not be a
problem. However, on my sailboat, here in N. FL, leaving diesel in the
tank without a biocide has caused me some problems. The fuel will soon
look like ink. So, I would only go with a biocide if it was going to
sit for any length of time.

If your tanks are clean to begin with, you have a good water
separation/filtration system, and you are using the boat frequently,
you probably do not need any additives. On the other hand they don't
really hurt anything if used as recommended. The biggest risk you face
is that your tanks already have diesel bugs growing on the sides or
bottom of the tank and you do not yet know it. The crisis point occurs
when you go out in rough seas for the first time and suddenly your
filters start clogging up at a very inopportune time as fuel sloshes
around and knocks the tank slime loose. Older boats/older tanks are
particularly prone to this issue but any boat which sits around a lot
and/or never gets run in rough conditions may be suspect.

If you do not already have dual Racors with selector valves and a
vacuum guage, I highly recommend that you make that investment,
particularly on a single engine boat. The vacuum guage will allow you
to monitor the status of your working filter and swap to a new one
before any problems develop. It is worth its weight in gold. A vacuum
guage reading of 5 inches or more is generally regarded as the right
time to change filters.

The other issue you face with a turbo engine is running too slow. You
must run the engine at near maximum cruising speed for at least 20 to
30 minutes a day to prevent carbon accumulation in the turbo. If not,
expensive, premature overhauls will result.

I still use Soltron®. See: http://www.solpower.com/soltron/soltronmain.asp

Hanz


wrote:

If your tanks are clean to begin with, you have a good water
separation/filtration system, and you are using the boat frequently,
you probably do not need any additives. On the other hand they don't
really hurt anything if used as recommended. The biggest risk you face
is that your tanks already have diesel bugs growing on the sides or
bottom of the tank and you do not yet know it. The crisis point occurs
when you go out in rough seas for the first time and suddenly your
filters start clogging up at a very inopportune time as fuel sloshes
around and knocks the tank slime loose. Older boats/older tanks are
particularly prone to this issue but any boat which sits around a lot
and/or never gets run in rough conditions may be suspect.

If you do not already have dual Racors with selector valves and a
vacuum guage, I highly recommend that you make that investment,
particularly on a single engine boat. The vacuum guage will allow you
to monitor the status of your working filter and swap to a new one
before any problems develop. It is worth its weight in gold. A vacuum
guage reading of 5 inches or more is generally regarded as the right
time to change filters.

The other issue you face with a turbo engine is running too slow. You
must run the engine at near maximum cruising speed for at least 20 to
30 minutes a day to prevent carbon accumulation in the turbo. If not,
expensive, premature overhauls will result.

Its all mostly snake oil sold by the same type of charlatans who
invented and hocked slick 50 to all you putzes who bought it. just a
bit of marvel mystery oil will lick any problem diesel may have, it
even slicks your hair back nicely in a pinch.
Meye, friend to capt. neal and like minded
fellows of the sea.