We have a rudimentary fresh water system aboard Deux Freres. It
consists of a cylindrical 20 gallon galvanized tank with a filler on
top, under a deck plate below the helm seat.

Looks like about a 1/2" (inside) diameter fitting, but it may be
smaller, on the forward bottom, with a length of black rubber hose to
a three way fitting below the engine oil pan.

Then it branches to two hoses, one aft, and one leads to the galley
hand pump faucet. (I think the aft line was to be a wash down later,
or is it a vent? It dead ends against the bottom of the aft deck
floor.)

I'd like to replace all of these hoses, what should I use?

Thanks
Donny,
(who went tubing with his kids for the first time yesterday!)


'74 Trojan Sea Raider 25'

http://www.picturetrail.com/sixbennetts

http://thebayguide.com/rec.boats/donny_bennett.html

Use Shields or Trident white or black (white costs less and is just as
good) potable water/sanitaion hose, Donny. Do NOT use clear water
hose...it lets light in, which encourages algae growth.

Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html




Looks like about a 1/2" (inside) diameter fitting, but it may be
smaller, on the forward bottom, with a length of black rubber hose to
a three way fitting below the engine oil pan.

Then it branches to two hoses, one aft, and one leads to the galley
hand pump faucet. (I think the aft line was to be a wash down later,
or is it a vent? It dead ends against the bottom of the aft deck
floor.)

I'd like to replace all of these hoses, what should I use?

Thanks
Donny,
(who went tubing with his kids for the first time yesterday!)


'74 Trojan Sea Raider 25'

http://www.picturetrail.com/sixbennetts

http://thebayguide.com/rec.boats/donny_bennett.html

I'm 99% certain the plumbing is the source of the problem...Did you only
clean the tank and run some bleach through it...or have you ever
actually recommissioned the whole system according to the directions in
my book (which I know you do have)?

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html




Keith wrote:
BTW, Peggie, I can't seem to get a stale taste/odor out of my fiberglass FW
tanks. I've sanitized with bleach 3-4 times, and add Starbrite's water
conditioner with each fill. I've even opened up the tanks and scrubbed as
best I could. There are some black rubber hoses leading out of the tank that
are probably 17 yrs. old. Do you think that might be the source of the
problem? This is on a Krogen, built in Taiwan.

On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 18:48:21 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

I'm 99% certain the plumbing is the source of the problem...Did you only
clean the tank and run some bleach through it...or have you ever
actually recommissioned the whole system according to the directions in
my book (which I know you do have)?

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html




Keith wrote:
BTW, Peggie, I can't seem to get a stale taste/odor out of my fiberglass FW
tanks. I've sanitized with bleach 3-4 times, and add Starbrite's water
conditioner with each fill. I've even opened up the tanks and scrubbed as
best I could. There are some black rubber hoses leading out of the tank that
are probably 17 yrs. old. Do you think that might be the source of the
problem? This is on a Krogen, built in Taiwan.


Peggie- you are an unmitigated, shameless, capitalistic source of good
information. Keep up the good work. )
...and thanks for sharing.
noah

Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats

On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 18:40:43 -0500, "Keith"
wrote:

I did the whole shootin' match about three times now. Scrubbed the tank,
flushed it out, filled with bleach solution and ran it through all the lines
and let sit about 6 hrs., then pumped the tanks out, filled with FW and
flushed the lines. The odor comes back within a week or so with the fresh
water. I'm guessing the black rubber hose maybe contaminated and
non-responsive to the bleach treatment. I guess I'll replace it and see if
that helps.

I think you have the right idea. Follow Peggies advice and replace
the lines with "non-clear" tubing.

Also, the chlorine in domestic (shore supply) will evaporate or be
used up after a while. If you don't use it frequently, you may still
need to add a bit of chlorine from time to time.
Good luck,
noah

Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats

Keith wrote:
I did the whole shootin' match about three times now.

In that case, it does sound like it's time to replace the plumbing. I'd
use Shields or Trident #148 white potable water/sanitation hose...not
too stiff, which makes it relatively easy to work with, and opaque,
which won't allow algae to join the mix of "critters" that like a damp
dark environment.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Scrubbed the tank,
flushed it out, filled with bleach solution and ran it through all the lines
and let sit about 6 hrs., then pumped the tanks out, filled with FW and
flushed the lines. The odor comes back within a week or so with the fresh
water. I'm guessing the black rubber hose maybe contaminated and
non-responsive to the bleach treatment. I guess I'll replace it and see if
that helps.

noah wrote:

Also, the chlorine in domestic (shore supply) will evaporate or be
used up after a while. If you don't use it frequently, you may still
need to add a bit of chlorine from time to time.

Not the best idea, Noah. Only the purifying properties in chlorine
evaporate...the corrosive properties remain behind. Any added chlorine
will only do the same thing...so adding more only shortens the life of
water pumps and aluminum water tanks. An annual "shock
treatment"--provided it's complete flushed out after it's been in the
system long enough to do its job--won't harm anything...it's the
cumulative effect of small amounts of chlorine that do the damage. An
annual--or at most semi-annual in a tropical or sub-tropical
climate--recommissioning should be all that's needed to keep the onboard
water smelling and tasting as good as any that comes out of a faucet on
land if it's just replaced frequently. If what comes out of the faucets
on land isn't good enough to suit you, install a filter. Just remember,
though, that filters do need periodic cleaning and/or replacment...and
that they should only be used in addition, not as a substitute for,
system maintenance.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

On Tue, 05 Aug 2003 01:13:23 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

noah wrote:

Also, the chlorine in domestic (shore supply) will evaporate or be
used up after a while. If you don't use it frequently, you may still
need to add a bit of chlorine from time to time.

Not the best idea, Noah. Only the purifying properties in chlorine
evaporate...the corrosive properties remain behind. Any added chlorine
will only do the same thing...so adding more only shortens the life of
water pumps and aluminum water tanks. An annual "shock
treatment"--provided it's complete flushed out after it's been in the
system long enough to do its job--won't harm anything...it's the
cumulative effect of small amounts of chlorine that do the damage. An
annual--or at most semi-annual in a tropical or sub-tropical
climate--recommissioning should be all that's needed to keep the onboard
water smelling and tasting as good as any that comes out of a faucet on
land if it's just replaced frequently. If what comes out of the faucets
on land isn't good enough to suit you, install a filter. Just remember,
though, that filters do need periodic cleaning and/or replacment...and
that they should only be used in addition, not as a substitute for,
system maintenance.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html


....er...uhm...that's what I meant. )
noah

Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats

This is slightly off the topic of the thread but I was thinking about
Donny's water issue and came upon an idea. This won't help Donny, like I
said it's a little off topic.

On my house I have a "whole house" water filter inline in the 3/4" pipe that
enters into the basement. Before the water forks off to the hot water tank
and the other myriad destinations it runs through an activated charcoal
filter. The filter doesn't seem to drop the water pressure at all and makes
a noticeable difference in the quality of the water (the water even feels
different, and we have good water to begin with).

I first got one of these when I lived in the country and we had really bad
water that tasted bad and left stains in the porcelain -- I don't want to be
too graphic but the water was also discoloured and the toilet always looked
as if it hadn't been flushed.

Anyway, the thing was $50 from Canadian Tire and it made a tremendous
difference. It's not often I find a product that works as well as I had
hoped. After installing it you could drink the water right out of the tap, I
can only imagine how many years of life it added to my hot water tank.

So reading this thread it occured to me that it would be a simple thing to
rig a dockside equivalent.

Dockside water hose in one side -- filter rig -- outlet hose to fill the
water tank in the boat.

If you were particularly handy you could make a nice housing for it and
perhaps a method to clip it to a cleat.

This should work fine for direct "city water" connections, but remember
it'll filter out the chlorine as well. If you're filling your FW tanks, I
personally like that in there, at least to start. Now sediment filters are
another story entirely...

--


Keith
__
Boating isn't dangerous. Sinking is what's dangerous.
"Paul" wrote in message
ble.rogers.com...
This is slightly off the topic of the thread but I was thinking about
Donny's water issue and came upon an idea. This won't help Donny, like I
said it's a little off topic.

On my house I have a "whole house" water filter inline in the 3/4" pipe
that
enters into the basement. Before the water forks off to the hot water tank
and the other myriad destinations it runs through an activated charcoal
filter. The filter doesn't seem to drop the water pressure at all and
makes
a noticeable difference in the quality of the water (the water even feels
different, and we have good water to begin with).

I first got one of these when I lived in the country and we had really bad
water that tasted bad and left stains in the porcelain -- I don't want to
be
too graphic but the water was also discoloured and the toilet always
looked
as if it hadn't been flushed.

Anyway, the thing was $50 from Canadian Tire and it made a tremendous
difference. It's not often I find a product that works as well as I had
hoped. After installing it you could drink the water right out of the tap,
I
can only imagine how many years of life it added to my hot water tank.

So reading this thread it occured to me that it would be a simple thing to
rig a dockside equivalent.

Dockside water hose in one side -- filter rig -- outlet hose to fill the
water tank in the boat.

If you were particularly handy you could make a nice housing for it and
perhaps a method to clip it to a cleat.