Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Ed Kracl
 
Posts: n/a
Default 2 part floatation foam

I have a 1981 SeaRay SRV210 Cuddy, which I've started recondition the
interior on. Upon pulling up the old carpet, I found the floor on the port
side soft and spongy. This boat has a fuel tank mounted in center of the
hull under the floor that runs from the step-down into the cuddy back to the
engine compartment. There is a foam filled cavity on each side of the fuel
tank which is covered with plywood and glassed in place.

Only one of the cavities showed any signs of delamination of the floor. I
now have the glass and plywood tore off the one cavity from the cuddy area
back to the transom. Before removing the glass and plywood, I noticed a
pattern of holes (approx. 3/4 inch) drilled through the glass and plywood,
the foam was level with the top of the glass. I have to assume that when
foam was put in, it was poured or injected through these holes and as the
foam expanded the excess foam was able to exit these holes.

Now, I have the water saturated foam dug out of the cavity and letting every
thing dry out before sealing it back up.

I would like to put the new plywood floor in place glass it in solid, then
drill the same pattern of holes, and pour in new foam. It seems to me that
the foam up expand up to the bottom of the floor and provide a solid floor.

A local vendor who sells the foam suggested leaving the top off the cavity,
filling it with the foam, cut the excess off, and then install the top. I
just don't think I would get a solid floor doing it this way.

Sorry for the long post, but I've never worked with 2 part foam before and
I'm curious if someone out there can share any experiences with me.

Thanks in advance


  #2   Report Post  
Bob D.
 
Posts: n/a
Default 2 part floatation foam


Interesting. I have no experience on the subject, but I would have tended
to do it like you suggested, filling in a completely enclosed cavity
through a hole. It seems easier and cleaner than sawing out excess foam.

But now that I think about it, will the foam expand to the point where it
might split a seam? Will the foam expand to the point where it compresses
against itself, pushing out air, and dimminishing it's bouyancy?

I still say put foam into an enclosure through a hole, but figure out the
volume of the space your filling and use the right ammount of foam,
allowing for expansion. That should be optimum.

Bob Dimond


In article UL2Hc.40867$MB3.13685@attbi_s04, "Ed Kracl"
wrote:



Now, I have the water saturated foam dug out of the cavity and letting every
thing dry out before sealing it back up.

I would like to put the new plywood floor in place glass it in solid, then
drill the same pattern of holes, and pour in new foam. It seems to me that
the foam up expand up to the bottom of the floor and provide a solid floor.

A local vendor who sells the foam suggested leaving the top off the cavity,
filling it with the foam, cut the excess off, and then install the top. I
just don't think I would get a solid floor doing it this way.

Sorry for the long post, but I've never worked with 2 part foam before and
I'm curious if someone out there can share any experiences with me.

Thanks in advance

  #3   Report Post  
Andy K.
 
Posts: n/a
Default 2 part floatation foam


"Ed Kracl" wrote in message
news:UL2Hc.40867$MB3.13685@attbi_s04...
I have a 1981 SeaRay SRV210 Cuddy, which I've started recondition the
interior on. Upon pulling up the old carpet, I found the floor on the port
side soft and spongy. This boat has a fuel tank mounted in center of the
hull under the floor that runs from the step-down into the cuddy back to

the
engine compartment. There is a foam filled cavity on each side of the fuel
tank which is covered with plywood and glassed in place.

Only one of the cavities showed any signs of delamination of the floor. I
now have the glass and plywood tore off the one cavity from the cuddy

area
back to the transom. Before removing the glass and plywood, I noticed a
pattern of holes (approx. 3/4 inch) drilled through the glass and plywood,
the foam was level with the top of the glass. I have to assume that when
foam was put in, it was poured or injected through these holes and as the
foam expanded the excess foam was able to exit these holes.

Now, I have the water saturated foam dug out of the cavity and letting

every
thing dry out before sealing it back up.

I would like to put the new plywood floor in place glass it in solid,

then
drill the same pattern of holes, and pour in new foam. It seems to me that
the foam up expand up to the bottom of the floor and provide a solid

floor.

A local vendor who sells the foam suggested leaving the top off the

cavity,
filling it with the foam, cut the excess off, and then install the top. I
just don't think I would get a solid floor doing it this way.

Sorry for the long post, but I've never worked with 2 part foam before and
I'm curious if someone out there can share any experiences with me.

Thanks in advance



Don't pour the foam in without replacing the deck. Use glass resin to seal
the bottom and edges of the deck and put it in place. Drill the holes in the
deck using a hole saw and save the plugs. Pour your foam. You need to watch
what you do until you get an idea of how well it is expanding. Older
materials may not kick as well as fresh materials. After you have poured the
foam, use the cores from the hole saw to patch the deck. Cover your repairs
with fiberglass cloth. We usually glass over the entire deck with two layers
of glass when we lay in a floor, running the cloth about 3 inches up the
side of the boat.

Make sure the deck is secure before you start pouring foam, you would be
surprised at what it can do.



  #4   Report Post  
Tan PS
 
Posts: n/a
Default 2 part floatation foam

Did this once.

Glassed the plywood into place. Drilled the holes like you described, 1
inch dia. The spacing used is about the volume of foam in the expanded
state. I had the boat on a trailer, tilted it as far back as I can. Idea
is to get the foam to flow towards the low point away from the pour hole and
as it expands it fills the cavity up to the hole, then proceed to the next
hole and repeat.

Now the fun part, I used 1 litre juice or milk cartons. Collect many. Mark
or visually identify the half and quarter positions and use those to measure
the 2 part stuff. Work fast, stir as quickly to mix and pour it through the
hole. We are talking seconds here. Pour it like you would with a kettle,
it can be done. You have to work fast. As you mix the half litre mix, it
will come to the brim very quickly. Pour quickly, if you pour too slowly it
will overflow.

Have a large garbage bag handy and opened and ready to receive stuff on
short notice. If things get out of control dump everything into it.
Spillages are not easy to get off.

After you've poured the stuff in, put a plastic sheet (plastic bags are ok)
over the hole, cover with a flat plywood and put a brick over it. You can
feel the heat from the reaction and it'll tell you where its reached. Be
careful in confined spaces, it can build enough pressure to burst seams.
When everything is done, glass over the hole, you don't want water getting
in.

Added precaution, the stuff releases toxic fumes. Work in a well ventilated
place, run a fan.. Don't work with your head in a confined corner. Have
another person around as a precaution.

Good luck and be careful.


"Ed Kracl" wrote in message
news:UL2Hc.40867$MB3.13685@attbi_s04...
I have a 1981 SeaRay SRV210 Cuddy, which I've started recondition the
interior on. Upon pulling up the old carpet, I found the floor on the port
side soft and spongy. This boat has a fuel tank mounted in center of the
hull under the floor that runs from the step-down into the cuddy back to

the
engine compartment. There is a foam filled cavity on each side of the fuel
tank which is covered with plywood and glassed in place.

Only one of the cavities showed any signs of delamination of the floor. I
now have the glass and plywood tore off the one cavity from the cuddy

area
back to the transom. Before removing the glass and plywood, I noticed a
pattern of holes (approx. 3/4 inch) drilled through the glass and plywood,
the foam was level with the top of the glass. I have to assume that when
foam was put in, it was poured or injected through these holes and as the
foam expanded the excess foam was able to exit these holes.

Now, I have the water saturated foam dug out of the cavity and letting

every
thing dry out before sealing it back up.

I would like to put the new plywood floor in place glass it in solid,

then
drill the same pattern of holes, and pour in new foam. It seems to me that
the foam up expand up to the bottom of the floor and provide a solid

floor.

A local vendor who sells the foam suggested leaving the top off the

cavity,
filling it with the foam, cut the excess off, and then install the top. I
just don't think I would get a solid floor doing it this way.

Sorry for the long post, but I've never worked with 2 part foam before and
I'm curious if someone out there can share any experiences with me.

Thanks in advance




  #5   Report Post  
Ed Kracl
 
Posts: n/a
Default 2 part floatation foam

Thanks for all the advice. I'm gaining more confidence in this project as
more people post.

P.S. I hardly ever post to newsgroups . So if my postings on the newsgroup
do not obey the usual standards. Please except my appologies. I'll have to
spend as much time reading about newsgroups as I have been reading about
boat repair.

Ed Kracl

"Ed Kracl" wrote in message
news:UL2Hc.40867$MB3.13685@attbi_s04...
I have a 1981 SeaRay SRV210 Cuddy, which I've started recondition the
interior on. Upon pulling up the old carpet, I found the floor on the port
side soft and spongy. This boat has a fuel tank mounted in center of the
hull under the floor that runs from the step-down into the cuddy back to

the
engine compartment. There is a foam filled cavity on each side of the fuel
tank which is covered with plywood and glassed in place.

Only one of the cavities showed any signs of delamination of the floor. I
now have the glass and plywood tore off the one cavity from the cuddy

area
back to the transom. Before removing the glass and plywood, I noticed a
pattern of holes (approx. 3/4 inch) drilled through the glass and plywood,
the foam was level with the top of the glass. I have to assume that when
foam was put in, it was poured or injected through these holes and as the
foam expanded the excess foam was able to exit these holes.

Now, I have the water saturated foam dug out of the cavity and letting

every
thing dry out before sealing it back up.

I would like to put the new plywood floor in place glass it in solid,

then
drill the same pattern of holes, and pour in new foam. It seems to me that
the foam up expand up to the bottom of the floor and provide a solid

floor.

A local vendor who sells the foam suggested leaving the top off the

cavity,
filling it with the foam, cut the excess off, and then install the top. I
just don't think I would get a solid floor doing it this way.

Sorry for the long post, but I've never worked with 2 part foam before and
I'm curious if someone out there can share any experiences with me.

Thanks in advance






  #6   Report Post  
Tan PS
 
Posts: n/a
Default 2 part floatation foam

No worries. Never know till you try. Most are helpful, a few will have a
bit more than necessary to say, just tand back and watch anarchy
unfold....that's just the unsolicited free entertainment Just keep away
from those posts and posters and you'll do fine.

Try looking at www.iboats.com There're many palces with moderated groups
that are not minefields.

Good luck on your project. Seems small on the surface but really its quite
a job. Nothing like the feeling of having done it yourself.

Tan PS


"Ed Kracl" wrote in message
news:XLDHc.58400$XM6.39818@attbi_s53...
Thanks for all the advice. I'm gaining more confidence in this project as
more people post.

P.S. I hardly ever post to newsgroups . So if my postings on the newsgroup
do not obey the usual standards. Please except my appologies. I'll have to
spend as much time reading about newsgroups as I have been reading about
boat repair.

Ed Kracl

"Ed Kracl" wrote in message
news:UL2Hc.40867$MB3.13685@attbi_s04...
I have a 1981 SeaRay SRV210 Cuddy, which I've started recondition the
interior on. Upon pulling up the old carpet, I found the floor on the

port
side soft and spongy. This boat has a fuel tank mounted in center of the
hull under the floor that runs from the step-down into the cuddy back to

the
engine compartment. There is a foam filled cavity on each side of the

fuel
tank which is covered with plywood and glassed in place.

Only one of the cavities showed any signs of delamination of the floor.

I
now have the glass and plywood tore off the one cavity from the cuddy

area
back to the transom. Before removing the glass and plywood, I noticed a
pattern of holes (approx. 3/4 inch) drilled through the glass and

plywood,
the foam was level with the top of the glass. I have to assume that when
foam was put in, it was poured or injected through these holes and as

the
foam expanded the excess foam was able to exit these holes.

Now, I have the water saturated foam dug out of the cavity and letting

every
thing dry out before sealing it back up.

I would like to put the new plywood floor in place glass it in solid,

then
drill the same pattern of holes, and pour in new foam. It seems to me

that
the foam up expand up to the bottom of the floor and provide a solid

floor.

A local vendor who sells the foam suggested leaving the top off the

cavity,
filling it with the foam, cut the excess off, and then install the top.

I
just don't think I would get a solid floor doing it this way.

Sorry for the long post, but I've never worked with 2 part foam before

and
I'm curious if someone out there can share any experiences with me.

Thanks in advance






Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question about Sea Sport 2200, and foam core boats Robert Allen General 0 May 19th 04 10:40 PM
I tore up floatation foam steve General 2 May 3rd 04 11:27 PM
WTB: Sea Ray exterior part for 1998 370 DA Sundancer C. Sadler General 4 February 21st 04 10:33 PM
The On-topic war, Part II, (very long) Gould 0738 General 4 September 28th 03 02:57 AM
Need the part number for a Gamefisher 5.0 hp motor Jeff Moskovitz General 2 September 18th 03 01:32 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:52 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2025 BoatBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Boats"

 

Copyright © 2017