To make sure the insurance company did not have a loophole, you could just
add brackets and a marinized alternator. Figure out the proper pulley size
to get a good generating output at the normal engine RPM's.
Bill

"Terry" wrote in message
...
Calif Bill wrote:

It is an automotive / truck alternator. With the only changes screening
for
all openings. Prevents flame propagation from nisde to outside the
alternator. Same for starters.
Bill

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
...
R Kelly wrote:

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
.. .


seeray wrote:

The answer is simple, if you feel it needs to be replaced before
you


go, then do it. Peace of mind is worth alot more than the
alternator


I agree, except: keep the known working one as a spare. [every once
in a
while, a "new" one fails pretty early.]

They can last as long as car alternators, if the engine compartment
is
fairly hospitable, since they usually ARE car alternators.

Marine alternators are intrinsically sealed. Anything less would
promote
ignition potential in the engine compartment. One would be ill
advised to
put an automotive alternator in an engine compartment, for an number
of
other reasons as well.
BK

Oops! I intended to say "usually are essentially" car alternators. The
Hitachi on our Yanmar sure looks like the one in my old car. I'm sure
there are differences, but the base technology isn't going to be too
different.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/


So; in a non gasoline situation (Volvo MD1B diesel) would you
advise using a truck/car alternator? The existing engine has an a
12 volt 8 amp. Bosch starter-generator. It's difficult to keep
the battery charged with that. We would like the charging
capacity of say a 60 to 100 ampere alternator.
Any advice welcomed. Terry.