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OK a for real boat question
I'm looking at a deal on an aluminum boat -- price is good, BUT
somewhere along the line someone painted it (don't know if oil or latex) with a BRUSH!. What's a good cheap, and safe way to remove paint from aluminum? |
OK a for real boat question
Jim, wrote: I'm looking at a deal on an aluminum boat -- price is good, BUT somewhere along the line someone painted it (don't know if oil or latex) with a BRUSH!. What's a good cheap, and safe way to remove paint from aluminum? Bead blasting. LIke sand blasting, but you use a barrel of tiny plastic beads. Should remove the paint without denting or scratching the Aluminum. |
OK a for real boat question
Jim, wrote:
I'm looking at a deal on an aluminum boat -- price is good, BUT somewhere along the line someone painted it (don't know if oil or latex) with a BRUSH!. What's a good cheap, and safe way to remove paint from aluminum? If they did that, they probably didn't prep it very well either. It'll flake off on it's own in a year or two, tops. Aluminum is nice because it's lighter than steel and doesn't rust. But it does have an issue with electrolysis. Any galvanic corrosion... bad ground, stray current... can eat a hole thru it in almost no time flat. A penny dropped in the bilge will go thru 1/4" aluminum in about 2 weeks. So if your prospective boat has an electrical system, check it out very carefully and note the cost of any needed repairs/upgrades. Fair Skies Doug King |
OK a for real boat question
"DSK" wrote in message ... Jim, wrote: I'm looking at a deal on an aluminum boat -- price is good, BUT somewhere along the line someone painted it (don't know if oil or latex) with a BRUSH!. What's a good cheap, and safe way to remove paint from aluminum? If they did that, they probably didn't prep it very well either. It'll flake off on it's own in a year or two, tops. Aluminum is nice because it's lighter than steel and doesn't rust. But it does have an issue with electrolysis. Any galvanic corrosion... bad ground, stray current... can eat a hole thru it in almost no time flat. A penny dropped in the bilge will go thru 1/4" aluminum in about 2 weeks. So if your prospective boat has an electrical system, check it out very carefully and note the cost of any needed repairs/upgrades. Fair Skies Doug King Even in fresh water??? If yes, I'm shaking down all my passengers for spare change from now on. |
OK a for real boat question
If you repaint the bottom, make sure the bottom paint is copper free!
If you do your own electrical work, be careful when you're stripping wire. Don't leave those little metal strands in the bilge. Don't use the hull as a ground for 12 volt equipment. I think some people use a metal other than zinc as a sacrificail metal for an aluminum boat in fresh water. Make sure you always shut off your battery switch when it's not in use. John |
OK a for real boat question
Doug Kanter wrote:
Even in fresh water??? (rolls eyes) C'mon, Doug... if the penny is inside the hull, in the bilge, what difference does it make what kind of water the boat is floating in?? The dissimilar metals is what does it. Different metals have different valence bonds, meaning that they are more or less eager to give up an electron to the metal atom next door. As they swap electrons, the bonds break down and you have bunch of loose atoms. Zinc is used for zinc because it is "least noble" ie the most eager to give up it's electrons, and breaks down the fastest, which actually offers some protection against galvanic corrosion by other metals in contacts with it. That's why they use it for zincs! ...If yes, I'm shaking down all my passengers for spare change from now on. Shucks, I do that now, and I have a fiberglass boat. If asked why, I say it's because the compass is so sensitive. DSK |
OK a for real boat question
"DSK" wrote in message
... Doug Kanter wrote: Even in fresh water??? (rolls eyes) C'mon, Doug... if the penny is inside the hull, in the bilge, what difference does it make what kind of water the boat is floating in?? I knew it was a 1/4 baked question the moment I asked it. :-( The dissimilar metals is what does it. Different metals have different valence bonds, meaning that they are more or less eager to give up an electron to the metal atom next door. As they swap electrons, the bonds break down and you have bunch of loose atoms. Zinc is used for zinc because it is "least noble" ie the most eager to give up it's electrons, and breaks down the fastest, which actually offers some protection against galvanic corrosion by other metals in contacts with it. That's why they use it for zincs! ...If yes, I'm shaking down all my passengers for spare change from now on. Shucks, I do that now, and I have a fiberglass boat. If asked why, I say it's because the compass is so sensitive. I don't have a permanently mounted compass, but with some of my guests, I think this ploy might still work. |
OK a for real boat question
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "DSK" wrote in message ... Jim, wrote: I'm looking at a deal on an aluminum boat -- price is good, BUT somewhere along the line someone painted it (don't know if oil or latex) with a BRUSH!. What's a good cheap, and safe way to remove paint from aluminum? If they did that, they probably didn't prep it very well either. It'll flake off on it's own in a year or two, tops. Aluminum is nice because it's lighter than steel and doesn't rust. But it does have an issue with electrolysis. Any galvanic corrosion... bad ground, stray current... can eat a hole thru it in almost no time flat. A penny dropped in the bilge will go thru 1/4" aluminum in about 2 weeks. So if your prospective boat has an electrical system, check it out very carefully and note the cost of any needed repairs/upgrades. Fair Skies Doug King Even in fresh water??? If yes, I'm shaking down all my passengers for spare change from now on. Typica liberal, squeeze everything out of them and throw them away! |
OK a for real boat question
"Bert Robbins" wrote in message . .. "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "DSK" wrote in message ... Jim, wrote: I'm looking at a deal on an aluminum boat -- price is good, BUT somewhere along the line someone painted it (don't know if oil or latex) with a BRUSH!. What's a good cheap, and safe way to remove paint from aluminum? If they did that, they probably didn't prep it very well either. It'll flake off on it's own in a year or two, tops. Aluminum is nice because it's lighter than steel and doesn't rust. But it does have an issue with electrolysis. Any galvanic corrosion... bad ground, stray current... can eat a hole thru it in almost no time flat. A penny dropped in the bilge will go thru 1/4" aluminum in about 2 weeks. So if your prospective boat has an electrical system, check it out very carefully and note the cost of any needed repairs/upgrades. Fair Skies Doug King Even in fresh water??? If yes, I'm shaking down all my passengers for spare change from now on. Typica liberal, squeeze everything out of them and throw them away! Quiet, meat sock. |
OK a for real boat question
"Jim," wrote in message ... I'm looking at a deal on an aluminum boat -- price is good, BUT somewhere along the line someone painted it (don't know if oil or latex) with a BRUSH!. What's a good cheap, and safe way to remove paint from aluminum? You might try one of the several "peel away" products. |
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