Should we submerge a trailer when we launch a 18-ft boat from it? I
was asking this because I saw the boat dealer who sold my boat almost
fully submerged the trailer when they launched the boat for a sea
trail. I was under the impression that we should move the trailer down
to the point where the wheel axle is right above water. I was kind of
surprised to see that. Does this have something to do with the fact
that the trailer doesn't have a way to tilt the boat down? May be the
boat dealer just want the boat into the water as quickly as possible?

What's the proper way to launch a boat from a trailer if the trailer
doesn't have a way to tilt the boat?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

wrote:
Should we submerge a trailer when we launch a 18-ft boat from it? I
was asking this because I saw the boat dealer who sold my boat almost
fully submerged the trailer when they launched the boat for a sea
trail. I was under the impression that we should move the trailer down
to the point where the wheel axle is right above water. I was kind of
surprised to see that. Does this have something to do with the fact
that the trailer doesn't have a way to tilt the boat down? May be the
boat dealer just want the boat into the water as quickly as possible?

What's the proper way to launch a boat from a trailer if the trailer
doesn't have a way to tilt the boat?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

Depending on the angle of the ramp, the depth of the water, the design
of the trailer, and the draft of the boat on the trailer you will need
to submerge the trailer to different depths to launch. Often this means
the trailer will be almost completely submerged. It's important to make
sure that your wiring is waterproof (most people disconnect the brake
lights before backing in) and that your wheel bearings are protected.

wrote:

: Depending on the angle of the ramp, the depth of the water, the design
: of the trailer, and the draft of the boat on the trailer you will need
: to submerge the trailer to different depths to launch. Often this means
: the trailer will be almost completely submerged. It's important to make
: sure that your wiring is waterproof (most people disconnect the brake
: lights before backing in) and that your wheel bearings are protected.


Good answer.

The key is to get the boat floating. Back up enough to get the back end of the
boat to "bob up". Note the depth of the trailer at that point. When
I retrieve my boats, I usually have the trailer a little more shallow than
the "float point" so it'll self center on the trailer. For my small I/O,
that's usually when the fender of the trailer is about 2 inches out
of the water.

However, every boat, trailer and ramp behaves differently so you'll have
to get to know your setup.

barry

Sure. the trailers are made to have the back axle dunked. however,
there is always going to be water seeping into the wheel berings even
though the trailer may be brand new, and the wheel seals in new shape.
The seals are made to keep the grease in the bering, but not
necessarily anything else out.

every year when you winterize your boat and park it, you should pull
the wheel hubs and have the berings flushed out and new grease
installed. that's part of winter maintenence.

after I do this, I even go as far as parking the boat and trailer,
jacking it up and putting it on wheel stands so there is no weight on
the tires or springs. trailer stuff seems to last longer

wrote:
: Sure. the trailers are made to have the back axle dunked. however,
: there is always going to be water seeping into the wheel berings even
: though the trailer may be brand new, and the wheel seals in new shape.
: The seals are made to keep the grease in the bering, but not
: necessarily anything else out.

Ever hear about "Bearing Buddies"? They would keep the water out of the
bearings and have been standard on many trailers for decades.

Google search 'em if you don't know what they are.

b.

Depending on the angle of the ramp, the depth of the water, the design
of the trailer, and the draft of the boat on the trailer you will need
to submerge the trailer to different depths to launch. Often this means
the trailer will be almost completely submerged.

Thanks. This makes sense. The ramp in the boat dealer's place is kind
of flat. This probably explains the reason why the boat dealer needed
to almost fully submerge the trailer in order to launch the boat.

It's important to make sure that your wiring is waterproof
(most people disconnect the brake lights before backing in)
and that your wheel bearings are protected.

Yes, I will make sure I will put this in the check-list of "Pre-Launch
Preparation".

Thanks.

Jay Chan

... If you are buying a BMT combo that could be a concern,
particularly if you plan on it being a trailer boat.

What's BMT combo? And why does BMT cause problem if we submerge the
trailer of a BMT combo in sal****er when we launch the boat?

Dunking the hubs means you have to be dilligent in your
bearing maintenance.

Does this mean these:
- Wait in the parking lot for a while to cool down the ball bearing
before proceeding to the ramp.
- Use something like Bearing Buddy and pump grease into the
greaser cap of the ball bearing periodically to keep the interior
of the bearing assembly under pressure to prevent water from
getting into bearing assembly.
- Degrease and re-pack the ball bearing every year as a part
of winterizing procedure.
- Anything else that I am missing?

Thanks.

Jay Chan

every year when you winterize your boat and park it, you should pull
the wheel hubs and have the berings flushed out and new grease
installed. that's part of winter maintenence.

Thanks. I will add this in my winterizing procedure.

after I do this, I even go as far as parking the boat and trailer,
jacking it up and putting it on wheel stands so there is no weight on
the tires or springs. trailer stuff seems to last longer

"Wheel stands". Yes, that is the key words that I should use to look
for them. I have been thinking of using them. But I didn't know what
they are called. Good. Now, I can use the right terms to ask the
salesman in the store. Thanks.

By the way, do you need a wheel stand for the front wheel that is made
from hard plastic?

Jay Chan

On Mon, 07 Nov 2005 10:06:48 -0800, wrote:

wrote:

: Depending on the angle of the ramp, the depth of the water, the design
: of the trailer, and the draft of the boat on the trailer you will need
: to submerge the trailer to different depths to launch. Often this means
: the trailer will be almost completely submerged. It's important to make
: sure that your wiring is waterproof (most people disconnect the brake
: lights before backing in) and that your wheel bearings are protected.


Good answer.

The key is to get the boat floating. Back up enough to get the back end of the
boat to "bob up". Note the depth of the trailer at that point. When
I retrieve my boats, I usually have the trailer a little more shallow than
the "float point" so it'll self center on the trailer. For my small I/O,
that's usually when the fender of the trailer is about 2 inches out
of the water.

However, every boat, trailer and ramp behaves differently so you'll have
to get to know your setup.

barry
Like you, I find that I am about right when the tops of my trailer
fenders are just above water.

Dave Hall

wrote:
... If you are buying a BMT combo that could be a concern,
particularly if you plan on it being a trailer boat.


What's BMT combo? And why does BMT cause problem if we submerge the
trailer of a BMT combo in sal****er when we launch the boat?


Dunking the hubs means you have to be dilligent in your
bearing maintenance.


Does this mean these:
- Wait in the parking lot for a while to cool down the ball bearing
before proceeding to the ramp.
- Use something like Bearing Buddy and pump grease into the
greaser cap of the ball bearing periodically to keep the interior
of the bearing assembly under pressure to prevent water from
getting into bearing assembly.
- Degrease and re-pack the ball bearing every year as a part
of winterizing procedure.
- Anything else that I am missing?

Thanks.

Jay Chan

I've heard people advise not to overgrease the Buddy Bearings. Think it
could blow a seal....but maybe someone more experienced can advise.