wrote in message
ups.com...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/007...books&v=glance

Thanks. You are the second person in this message thread who has
recommended the book "The 12 Volts Bible for Boats". I will definitely
take a look of this book one more time.

And I coat all connections with liquid tape.

Does the liquid tape replace the use of heat shrink tube for wiring
connection and replace the use of grease for connections on battery
terminals? I cannot quite picture the use of this products.

Jay Chan


I heat shrink the Ancor swedge connectors and then coat the connection with
liquid tape. Makes a better seal. You can also use pvc tape and coat it
with PVC glue. Melts the tape together. As to your other question about
books. Most books are not going to give wiring diagrams. They are going to
tell you how to trouble shoot the circuit, and figure out which wire goes
where. Since my degree is electrical engineering, I do not have the book so
can not personally vouch for the book, but has been recommended for years.

wrote:
There's a good book called "The 12-Volt Bible".

There are two persons in this message thread like this book. It must
be good. Somehow, when I flipped through it in the book store, I only
saw very few wiring diagram in it, and it didn't give me a deep
impression. May be I should give it a second chance. OK, I will take
a look of this book one more time tomorrow.

Also, there is a lot of basic wiring information available on the ANCOR
web site.

I have looked at their web site in http://www.ancorproducts.com/ But I
don't see any wiring diagram. Are we talking about the same web site?

A few general tips before you go off to study up on what the actual
experts have to say:

All good points. I appreciate your effort in preparing that list of
good tips.

Thanks.

Jay Chan


The most valuable information on the ANCOR site are the charts showing
the diameter of wire to use based on distance and load. If you do
everything else right, but screw this up,
you won't be pleased with the results of your rewiring.

As far as a "diagram" goes, you're unlikely to find one. Every boat has
its own challenges.

But, let's figure out how to "draw a diagram: for your boat.

IIRC, you have a reasonably small boat. Let's say that you were going
to install a VHF radio, a depth sounder, an AM/FM CD player, and a
chart plotter. Four items.

You will need to plan a cable run from your house battery to your helm
area. Tuck the wire up out of the way, away from bilgewater. You will
want to plan a route that is as direct as possible, but protects the
wiring and keeps it out from underfoot. One nice aspect of the four
items noted above is that they will all be installed, typically, very
close to the wheel.

Look up the amp draw for each electronic item, (will be in the product
specs), and add them together. You're likely to be running all four of
those specfic items at once, and even if you thought you weren't you
would want to be able to do so while retaining adequate voltage. Now
measure the distance from the house battery to the point where you will
install either a panel (highly recommended) or a buss bar. (Be sure to
include any bends the cable will take- follow the exat route when you
measure). The panel is a better choice as you can switch each item on
or off individually. You will run your red wire to the panel or buss
bar.

Now that you know the load and the distance to the panel, check out the
chart on the ancor site and choose a marine wire that will minimize
voltage loss. It may be a larger size than you would have otherwise
imagined. If you can, go up a size or two in that cable between the
house battery and the panel, and get a panel with an extra couple of
switches. They way electronics are evoloving, you may want to add
something in a couple of years that hasn't even been invented yet.

Once your panel is in place, you will want to site a buss bar for the
black ground wires near the installation. One again, use a marine wire
capable of handling the total amperage based on the load and the total
distance from the house battery to the ground buss- and back.

You can use smaller wire to connect each electronic device to your
panel or buss. The distance you are working with here is the distance
from the panel or buss to the actual devices. Use the Ancor chart. When
in doubt, go up a size.

If your switch panel isn't fused with circuit breakers, you will want
to install an in-line fuse on the red wire between the panel and the
individual items. Your product installation data sheets will specify
the rating needed for the individual fuses. If you use a buss bar
instead of a fused panel, count on installing the in-line fuses as
there will be no other ciruit protection between the battery and the
load.

So while there aren't a lot of wiring diagrams for specific boats
kicking around, you can successfully wire your electronics by using the
steps above, (I didn't repeat the obvious cautions about using properly
crimped connections, etc). When you're done, you can draw your own
wiring diagram for the good ship "Carpe Diem", (or what not), but you
won't need one for your own purposes as you will be intimately familiar
with just how the system works.

I heat shrink the Ancor swedge connectors and then coat
the connection with liquid tape. Makes a better seal.

I see. This means you use the liquid tape to seal the tiny gap around
the heat-shrink tube and the cable. Now I understand the use of this
product. Seem like this is the finishing touch that I should do after
I am doing with all the wiring and testing. Thanks for the tip!

As to your other question about books. Most books are
not going to give wiring diagrams. They are going to
tell you how to trouble shoot the circuit, and figure out
which wire goes where.

What I mean "wiring diagram" is something like a picture of how
everything comes together, like an overview of the layout.

Since my degree is electrical engineering, I do not have
the book so can not personally vouch for the book, but
has been recommended for years.

Good to hear that this book has been recommended by many people through
out the years. I will take a second look on the book on my way back
home today.

Jay Chan

The most valuable information on the ANCOR site are the charts showing
the diameter of wire to use based on distance and load. If you do
everything else right, but screw this up,
you won't be pleased with the results of your rewiring.

Thanks for the good point. I will keep an note on the use of correct
wiring sizes and colors.

As far as a "diagram" goes, you're unlikely to find one. Every boat has
its own challenges.

I am kind of surprised to hear this. A diagram for each typical layout
should go a long way to explain where everything is, such as a diagram
for a center console, a diagram for a bowrider, a diagram for a small
sailing boat...etc.

I am reading a great book called "Royce's Powerboating Illustrated 6th
Edition". It has many pictures and diagrams on many topics on boating
all condensed in a small (but thick) book. Unfortunately, it is not
specific for wiring. Therefore, there is still room for more specific
info on wiring. This is the reason why I am looking for a specific
book for wiring.

But, let's figure out how to "draw a diagram: for your boat.

IIRC, you have a reasonably small boat. Let's say that you were going
to install a VHF radio, a depth sounder, an AM/FM CD player, and a
chart plotter. Four items.

You will need to plan a cable run from your house battery to your helm
area. Tuck the wire up out of the way, away from bilgewater. You will
want to plan a route that is as direct as possible, but protects the
wiring and keeps it out from underfoot. One nice aspect of the four
items noted above is that they will all be installed, typically, very
close to the wheel.

Look up the amp draw for each electronic item, (will be in the product
specs), and add them together. You're likely to be running all four of
those specfic items at once, and even if you thought you weren't you
would want to be able to do so while retaining adequate voltage. Now
measure the distance from the house battery to the point where you will
install either a panel (highly recommended) or a buss bar. (Be sure to
include any bends the cable will take- follow the exat route when you
measure). The panel is a better choice as you can switch each item on
or off individually. You will run your red wire to the panel or buss
bar.

Now that you know the load and the distance to the panel, check out the
chart on the ancor site and choose a marine wire that will minimize
voltage loss. It may be a larger size than you would have otherwise
imagined. If you can, go up a size or two in that cable between the
house battery and the panel, and get a panel with an extra couple of
switches. They way electronics are evoloving, you may want to add
something in a couple of years that hasn't even been invented yet.

Once your panel is in place, you will want to site a buss bar for the
black ground wires near the installation. One again, use a marine wire
capable of handling the total amperage based on the load and the total
distance from the house battery to the ground buss- and back.

You can use smaller wire to connect each electronic device to your
panel or buss. The distance you are working with here is the distance
from the panel or buss to the actual devices. Use the Ancor chart. When
in doubt, go up a size.

If your switch panel isn't fused with circuit breakers, you will want
to install an in-line fuse on the red wire between the panel and the
individual items. Your product installation data sheets will specify
the rating needed for the individual fuses. If you use a buss bar
instead of a fused panel, count on installing the in-line fuses as
there will be no other ciruit protection between the battery and the
load.

So while there aren't a lot of wiring diagrams for specific boats
kicking around, you can successfully wire your electronics by using the
steps above, (I didn't repeat the obvious cautions about using properly
crimped connections, etc). When you're done, you can draw your own
wiring diagram for the good ship "Carpe Diem", (or what not), but you
won't need one for your own purposes as you will be intimately familiar
with just how the system works.

Thanks a lot for the overview of how to design a wiring for a small
boat like mine. I cannot say enough to thank you. With this info and
the info from the books that I will get, I have confidence that I will
be able to add additional wiring to my boat for the instruments that I
will add to the boat.

Mine is probably an easier boat to wire than what you have described
because the batteries are located inside the center console where all
the electronic instruments are going to be nearby (instead of at the
back near the motor). I just have to check the wire between the
batteries and the motor to make sure it is the right size for the long
length that it must cross between the batteries and the motor.

Thanks again.

Jay Chan

On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 08:02:44 -0800, chuckgould.chuck wrote:


wrote:
ll good points. I appreciate your effort in preparing that list of
good tips.

Thanks.

Jay Chan


As far as a "diagram" goes, you're unlikely to find one. Every boat has
its own challenges.

But, let's figure out how to "draw a diagram: for your boat.

Chuck implies a Very Good Tip he DRAW YOUR OWN DIAGRAM AS YOU'RE
WIRING. And label and/or colour-code your wires. That way when your VHF
packs it in and you're looking at the rat's-nest under the console, you'll
know where to look.

Lloyd

Chuck implies a Very Good Tip he DRAW YOUR OWN DIAGRAM AS YOU'RE
WIRING. And label and/or colour-code your wires. That way when your VHF
packs it in and you're looking at the rat's-nest under the console, you'll
know where to look.

Yes, I know. I meant to say that a sample diagram goes a long way in
explaining to a beginner how everything fits together. Then the
beginner has a way to relate to.

Jay Chan

Let's say that you were going
to install a VHF radio, a depth sounder, an AM/FM CD player, and a
chart plotter. Four items.

Lets not forget bilge pump(s), running lights, cabin lights, lighter
plug outlet, etc.

Most boats, even a small boat, will probably have at least eight
circuits, which should each have their own circuit breaker on the main
panel.

Let me start counting of what I have and what I want to add:
1. Motor starter
2. Bilge pump
3. Bow light
4. Light near the stern
5. Interior light for inside of the center console
6. 12-volt outlet (not sure what it is for?)
7. VHF radio
8. Depth sounder
9. GPS

Seem like I definitely need a big panel for all these stuff even
without a AM/FM radio.

Jay Chan

wrote in message
oups.com...
Let's say that you were going
to install a VHF radio, a depth sounder, an AM/FM CD player, and a
chart plotter. Four items.

Lets not forget bilge pump(s), running lights, cabin lights, lighter
plug outlet, etc.

Most boats, even a small boat, will probably have at least eight
circuits, which should each have their own circuit breaker on the main
panel.

Let me start counting of what I have and what I want to add:
1. Motor starter
2. Bilge pump
3. Bow light
4. Light near the stern
5. Interior light for inside of the center console
6. 12-volt outlet (not sure what it is for?)
7. VHF radio
8. Depth sounder
9. GPS

Seem like I definitely need a big panel for all these stuff even
without a AM/FM radio.

Jay Chan


12 volt outlet. Actually a couple is nice. I plug in my portable VHF to
charge it, and the cell phone at times.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 07:07:45 GMT, "Bill McKee"
wrote:

12 volt outlet. Actually a couple is nice. I plug in my portable VHF to
charge it, and the cell phone at times.

=====================================

All that, plus small inverter for running laptop, spotlight, portable
GPS, and the list goes on. I agree that a couple of outlets is nice
but you can also buy splitter cords that create a second outlet.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 07:07:45 GMT, "Bill McKee"
wrote:

12 volt outlet. Actually a couple is nice. I plug in my portable VHF to
charge it, and the cell phone at times.

=====================================

All that, plus small inverter for running laptop, spotlight, portable
GPS, and the list goes on. I agree that a couple of outlets is nice
but you can also buy splitter cords that create a second outlet.


I have a splitter, but it would be much nicer to just have a couple. built
in. Just like my wifes S10 Blazer as opposed to my Expedition that had 1
extra power outlet besides the ciggy lighter. I also have a 12 V outlet in
the back to hook up the live bait bag.