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#21
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6. 12-volt outlet (not sure what it is for?)
A blender, of course...... daiquiris anyone? A hand held spotlight can come in handy at times also. -rick- |
#22
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posted to rec.boats
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If you are using the correct heat shrink tubing or terminal
connections, they have a heat activated glue. If there is any "tiny gap around the heat-shrink tube and the cable" you have done something wrong or used an inferior product. Ditto any heavy lugs that have "holes" or gaps in the metal when properly swaged and sealed with heat shrink. I see. This means I should look for the right shrink tubing that has heat activated glue. Thanks for the tip. Jay Chan |
#23
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posted to rec.boats
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All that, plus small inverter for running laptop, spotlight, portable
GPS, and the list goes on. I agree that a couple of outlets is nice but you can also buy splitter cords that create a second outlet. Good to know that the 12-volt outlet will have a lot of use. Thanks. The other newsgroup member also mentioned about its use for running a live-bait well; this sounds exactly something that I will want to add to my boat. Jay Chan |
#24
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Let me start counting of what I have and what I want to add:
1. Motor starter Possibly not fused. You are probably right. The motor itself already has a fuse inside the motor for the starter. I assume we don't need another fuse for the same thing in the panel. I don't know for sure because I am still reviewing the wiring. 2. Bilge pump Possibly fused separately and not connected to the main breaker... but directly to the battery. You are exactly right. Although the panel in the boat has a slot for bilge pump, the slot is not connecting to anything. The wiring for the bilge pump actually goes directly to the battery switch and bypassing the panel. 6. 12-volt outlet (not sure what it is for?) A blender, of course...... daiquiris anyone? May be for a live-baits well that I will add to my boat ![]() Jay Chan |
#25
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posted to rec.boats
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2. Bilge pump
Possibly fused separately and not connected to the main breaker... but directly to the battery. You are exactly right. Although the panel in the boat has a slot for bilge pump, the slot is not connecting to anything. The wiring for the bilge pump actually goes directly to the battery switch and bypassing the panel. You probably should have two feeds to the bilge pump. One, automatic, through a float switch that is connected directly to the battery. The other wire should go from the battery to a switch at the console (appropriate fusing employed) and thence to the bilge pump. Thus, you have an automatic bilge pump with a manual override. Yes, indeed the boat is supposed to have both automatic and manual. But the manual doesn't work. This is one of the reason why I need to review the wiring in my boat. Jay Chan |
#27
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Good answer Gene. I was just trying to illustrate that you need to pay
attention to what you are doing while playing with electricity, even with simple boat wiring. Jim "Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 18:04:10 GMT, "JIMinFL" wrote: This setup is kind of tricky, and not fool proof. What if you forget to turn the manual switch off and turn the battery switch off. Then the float switch turns the pump on. What would be the effect on circuits that had been disconnected by the battery switch? What could you do to prevent this effect? Jim, That's a hell of a good point that I hadn't considered..... probably because mine also has a light next to the switch and I rarely use it except during a wash down. I would think that the simplest fix would be to add a diode in line between the bilge pump and the switch. -- _ ___c \ _| \_ __\_| oooo \_____ ~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~ ~~~ ~~~~~~ ~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC. http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ Homepage* http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide |
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