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#1
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My glowplugs don't and the engine heater light doesn't come on either,
though the engine starts quite happily with Easystart (don't like using that too often) What are the likely causes guys? There's a relay in the circuit called an 'insulating relay & engine temperature relay, and an engine temperature switch mounted in the thermostat housing. I have a limited ability to follow circuits! |
#2
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#3
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Be very careful about using starting fluid on an engine with glowplugs.
Could cause an explosion, don'tchaknow? If there is a relay in the circuit (almost certain) I'd check that first. Got a manual? Butch wrote in message ups.com... My glowplugs don't and the engine heater light doesn't come on either, though the engine starts quite happily with Easystart (don't like using that too often) What are the likely causes guys? There's a relay in the circuit called an 'insulating relay & engine temperature relay, and an engine temperature switch mounted in the thermostat housing. I have a limited ability to follow circuits! |
#5
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![]() wrote: wrote: wrote: My glowplugs don't and the engine heater light doesn't come on either, though the engine starts quite happily with Easystart (don't like using that too often) What are the likely causes guys? There's a relay in the circuit called an 'insulating relay & engine temperature relay, and an engine temperature switch mounted in the thermostat housing. I have a limited ability to follow circuits! reached a certain temperature. The most likely point of failure in that system, and likely also the cheapest and easiest to fix, will be the sensor (or "sending unit") that is measuring the temperature of the block or head. Is the sender 'normally open' in which case, could I short it out to see if that is the open part of the circuit? No, I don't have a manual Theoretically, the contacts in your sensor will be closed when the engine head or block is cold. The closed contacts will allow curent to flow to the indicator lights at your control console and probably to a relay or control that turns the glow plug system on and off as well. When the engine block or head heats up, the contacts in the sensor will expand apart, shutting off both the indicator light and the flow of energy to the glow plug power system. If the contacts fail to return to the "cold" position, your glow plugs won't function when needed. You could experiment with manually shorting the circuit where the wires connect to the sensor and then seeing if your indicator lights come on up at the helm. If they do, it's almost certainly a bad sending unit. |
#6
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![]() wrote: wrote: wrote: wrote: My glowplugs don't and the engine heater light doesn't come on either, though the engine starts quite happily with Easystart (don't like using that too often) What are the likely causes guys? There's a relay in the circuit called an 'insulating relay & engine temperature relay, and an engine temperature switch mounted in the thermostat housing. I have a limited ability to follow circuits! reached a certain temperature. The most likely point of failure in that system, and likely also the cheapest and easiest to fix, will be the sensor (or "sending unit") that is measuring the temperature of the block or head. Is the sender 'normally open' in which case, could I short it out to see if that is the open part of the circuit? No, I don't have a manual Theoretically, the contacts in your sensor will be closed when the engine head or block is cold. The closed contacts will allow curent to flow to the indicator lights at your control console and probably to a relay or control that turns the glow plug system on and off as well. When the engine block or head heats up, the contacts in the sensor will expand apart, shutting off both the indicator light and the flow of energy to the glow plug power system. If the contacts fail to return to the "cold" position, your glow plugs won't function when needed. You could experiment with manually shorting the circuit where the wires connect to the sensor and then seeing if your indicator lights come on up at the helm. If they do, it's almost certainly a bad sending unit. Cheers for that - I will try that when next at the boat early next week. |
#7
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![]() Butch Davis wrote: Be very careful about using starting fluid on an engine with glowplugs. Could cause an explosion, don'tchaknow? True, using starting fluid with een one glow pug working can cause a powerful ,pre-detonation which could crack a head, and or blow a head gasket, or even worse, bend a connecting rod. Not only so, but every time the starting fluid detonates, it puts tiny "ping" pockets on the piston top. Eventually on a tear-down, it looks like somebody was beating on top of the pistons with a hammer and a punch! If necessary....A safer alternate to using starting fluid, that is, if you can get past the air cleaner , is to spray penetrating oil right to the throat of the manifold while cranking the engine. , it won't start right off, but it's much safer on the engine, plus it will lubricate the cyl. walls at the same time. Starting fluid drys the walls off, and over a prolonged use will help wear out the rings. |
#8
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wrote:
wrote: wrote: wrote: wrote: My glowplugs don't and the engine heater light doesn't come on either, though the engine starts quite happily with Easystart (don't like using that too often) What are the likely causes guys? There's a relay in the circuit called an 'insulating relay & engine temperature relay, and an engine temperature switch mounted in the thermostat housing. I have a limited ability to follow circuits! reached a certain temperature. The most likely point of failure in that system, and likely also the cheapest and easiest to fix, will be the sensor (or "sending unit") that is measuring the temperature of the block or head. Is the sender 'normally open' in which case, could I short it out to see if that is the open part of the circuit? No, I don't have a manual Theoretically, the contacts in your sensor will be closed when the engine head or block is cold. The closed contacts will allow curent to flow to the indicator lights at your control console and probably to a relay or control that turns the glow plug system on and off as well. When the engine block or head heats up, the contacts in the sensor will expand apart, shutting off both the indicator light and the flow of energy to the glow plug power system. If the contacts fail to return to the "cold" position, your glow plugs won't function when needed. You could experiment with manually shorting the circuit where the wires connect to the sensor and then seeing if your indicator lights come on up at the helm. If they do, it's almost certainly a bad sending unit. Cheers for that - I will try that when next at the boat early next week. Chuck is trying to be helpful & in good faith so no criticism of him intended. However be careful, without a wiring diagram you won't really know how the glow plugs are wired. Rarely are glow plugs still powered after the engine starts (i.e. use the 20V dc range of an elcheapo multimeter to ensure NO power is flowing to the glowplugs after start; none). The block temp sender is only there to give the system some idea of how long to leave the glowplugs timer on before the start is made (or even allowed) Also don't be tempted to hot wire direct to the glow plugs, they usually have a pretty heavy resistor in the circuit to reduce the voltage supplied to the series linked glow plugs. Again with your cheap multimeter you can take the glowplug series strap off, then on Ohms check the resistance of each glowplug, there should be some (not open circuit) & the readings should all be similar. Properly verify the plugs are getting current during the heat period & that they are all operating, before you go pulling them out on spec, they're expensive & easily damaged if a bit old & never removed/replaced with something like a copper based neversieze etc. K |
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