I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?

It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one....

JimH wrote:
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?

Ed wrote:
It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one....

JimH wrote:
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?



What extra wires?

The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You
have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option
"All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by
the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries
connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs
is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the
other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe
an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with
two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When
battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is
positioned so that one of the
two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated
with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the
pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs
overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete
the circuit.

There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the
alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get
to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the
connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the
first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the
switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been
sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty.

JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat
part, can you?
Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead
will find it and
switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your
permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of
accidental carelessness). Have you priced
replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively
cheap. :-)

The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both
batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice
is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one
time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each
bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically
encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's
Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like
most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for
differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned
arguments to support diverse conclusions.

Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for
less.

wrote:
Ed wrote:
It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one....

JimH wrote:
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?



What extra wires?

The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You
have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option
"All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by
the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries
connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs
is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the
other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe
an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with
two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When
battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is
positioned so that one of the
two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated
with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the
pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs
overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete
the circuit.

There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the
alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get
to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the
connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the
first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the
switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been
sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty.

JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat
part, can you?
Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead
will find it and
switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your
permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of
accidental carelessness). Have you priced
replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively
cheap. :-)

The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both
batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice
is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one
time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each
bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically
encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's
Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like
most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for
differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned
arguments to support diverse conclusions.

Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for
less.

Chuck,
When I read JimH post, I couldn't believe JimH was really worried about
the $10, but was interested in starting an on topic discussion about the
A/B switch. Your response might have been the epitome of a complete and
knowledgeable answer to what appeared to be a simple question. If JimH
really was pondering if he should splurge and spend the extra $10, the
group still benefited from his question.

I have a A/B/All Perko switch and I have only changed the settings when
the engine was off (That is what the dealer told me to do when I picked
up the boat). I feel much better knowing that it will not burn up my
engine if a passenger decides to switch the battery while I am underway.

--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
Ed wrote:
It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one....

JimH wrote:
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?



What extra wires?

The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You
have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option
"All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by
the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries
connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs
is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the
other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe
an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with
two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When
battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is
positioned so that one of the
two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated
with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the
pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs
overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete
the circuit.

There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the
alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get
to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the
connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the
first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the
switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been
sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty.

JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat
part, can you?
Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead
will find it and
switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your
permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of
accidental carelessness). Have you priced
replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively
cheap. :-)

The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both
batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice
is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one
time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each
bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically
encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's
Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like
most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for
differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned
arguments to support diverse conclusions.

Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for
less.

Chuck,
When I read JimH post, I couldn't believe JimH was really worried about
the $10, but was interested in starting an on topic discussion about the
A/B switch.

No, I was actually wondering if I should spend the extra $10. I am not in
the habit of throwing money away.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Ed wrote:
It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one....

JimH wrote:
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?



What extra wires?

The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You
have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option
"All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by
the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries
connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs
is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the
other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe
an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with
two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When
battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is
positioned so that one of the
two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated
with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the
pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs
overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete
the circuit.

There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the
alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get
to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the
connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the
first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the
switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been
sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty.

JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat
part, can you?
Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead
will find it and
switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your
permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of
accidental carelessness). Have you priced
replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively
cheap. :-)

The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both
batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice
is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one
time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each
bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically
encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's
Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like
most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for
differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned
arguments to support diverse conclusions.

Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for
less.


Thanks Chuck. But the one for $29 has a "both" position
http://tinyurl.com/lath7 and both batteries can be charged with it also.

So the only thing I would be gaining with the $39 switch is the field
disconnect. As the switch is going to located under near the engine and the
only way to access it will be to open the engine hatch, I still don't see
the advantage of the more expensive switch.

Are you sure about no extra wiring needed with the "field disconnect" $39
switch?

Thanks!

BTW: I am not a tightwad. I just am not in the habit of wasting money.

" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message
oups.com...

Ed wrote:
It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one....

JimH wrote:
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery
while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will
not be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?



What extra wires?

The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You
have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option
"All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by
the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries
connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs
is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the
other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe
an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with
two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When
battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is
positioned so that one of the
two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated
with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the
pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs
overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete
the circuit.

There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the
alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get
to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the
connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the
first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the
switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been
sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty.

JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat
part, can you?
Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead
will find it and
switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your
permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of
accidental carelessness). Have you priced
replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively
cheap. :-)

The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both
batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice
is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one
time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each
bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically
encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's
Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like
most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for
differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned
arguments to support diverse conclusions.

Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for
less.


Thanks Chuck. But the one for $29 has a "both" position
http://tinyurl.com/lath7 and both batteries can be charged with it also.

So the only thing I would be gaining with the $39 switch is the field
disconnect. As the switch is going to located near the engine and under
the engine hatch and the only way to access it will be to open the engine
hatch, I still don't see the advantage of the more expensive switch.
Are you sure about no extra wiring needed with the "field disconnect" $39
switch?

Thanks!

BTW: I am not a tightwad. I just am not in the habit of wasting money.


Doh.........edit.

JimH wrote:
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
Ed wrote:
It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one....

JimH wrote:
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


What extra wires?

The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You
have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option
"All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by
the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries
connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs
is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the
other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe
an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with
two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When
battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is
positioned so that one of the
two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated
with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the
pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs
overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete
the circuit.

There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the
alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get
to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the
connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the
first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the
switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been
sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty.

JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat
part, can you?
Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead
will find it and
switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your
permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of
accidental carelessness). Have you priced
replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively
cheap. :-)

The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both
batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice
is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one
time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each
bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically
encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's
Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like
most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for
differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned
arguments to support diverse conclusions.

Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for
less.

Chuck,
When I read JimH post, I couldn't believe JimH was really worried about
the $10, but was interested in starting an on topic discussion about the
A/B switch.

No, I was actually wondering if I should spend the extra $10. I am not in
the habit of throwing money away.


I would spend the extra $10 as the cheapest insurance policy you will
ever buy. I would assume your kids will probably borrow the boat some,
or you will request someone to go into the bilge to do some work and
they throw the switch, or as you get older and have some senior moments
you just might have a brain fart and throw the switch.

I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for
the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are
familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you
expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy?
--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message
...
JimH wrote:
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
Ed wrote:
It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for
the
regular one....

JimH wrote:
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack
field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery
while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will
not be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


What extra wires?

The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You
have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option
"All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by
the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries
connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs
is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the
other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe
an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with
two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When
battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is
positioned so that one of the
two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated
with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the
pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs
overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete
the circuit.

There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the
alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get
to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the
connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the
first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the
switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been
sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty.

JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat
part, can you?
Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead
will find it and
switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your
permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of
accidental carelessness). Have you priced
replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively
cheap. :-)

The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both
batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice
is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one
time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each
bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically
encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's
Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like
most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for
differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned
arguments to support diverse conclusions.

Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for
less.

Chuck,
When I read JimH post, I couldn't believe JimH was really worried about
the $10, but was interested in starting an on topic discussion about the
A/B switch.

No, I was actually wondering if I should spend the extra $10. I am not
in the habit of throwing money away.


I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for
the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar
with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to
learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy?


Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others.

Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie?

JimH wrote:

I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for
the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar
with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to
learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy?


Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others.

Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie?

What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an
honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you
expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the
features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches,
which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on
topic discussion.

As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot
from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question.

Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should
pay the $10 as cheap insurance.

My post was really not a personal thing at all.


--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."